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Thread: Starter cuts the power off...

  1. #11
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Before you start swapping parts by totally guessing.....


    What did the voltmeter read? (hint: when testing the battery like that, put the leads on the actual cables, not the screws or battery terminals) I'm betting bad cell or corrosion under the terminals.

  2. #12
    Member Clanofwolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Before you start swapping parts by totally guessing.....


    What did the voltmeter read? (hint: when testing the battery like that, put the leads on the actual cables, not the screws or battery terminals) I'm betting bad cell or corrosion under the terminals.
    Had it load tested off the bike after trickle charging it on a large unit overnight. Done at NAPA; I was with the guy testing it; went through all the cycles three times. Bad cell. My bike has all good connections and grounds, I own a ‘62 Triumph TR4 with all original Lucas wiring, gear, switches and gauges, so I’m super anal retentive about that kinda thing, haha. Ordered a new battery via the eBay link as I received that same advice from another source too.

    The relays however are still in question...

  3. #13
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    the bad cell rears its ugly head via a multi-meter and cranking mode. meter will drop to 1....then virtually 0 volts. ALWAYS the indicator of a bad cell. know what i'd do dave regarding the relays? they're all the same....3 per fuse box. ignition/accessory/key switch....all the same and rated @ 20 amps. remove one...any one...and take to any auto parts store. same as common chrysler and ford a/c relays. match it up and be sure replacement at least 20 amps minimum. carry as a spare along with a few assorted blade fuses under the seat somewhere. i carry small assortment in plastic sandwich bag taped to front of battery.

  4. #14
    Member Clanofwolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    the bad cell rears its ugly head via a multi-meter and cranking mode. meter will drop to 1....then virtually 0 volts. ALWAYS the indicator of a bad cell. know what i'd do dave regarding the relays? they're all the same....3 per fuse box. ignition/accessory/key switch....all the same and rated @ 20 amps. remove one...any one...and take to any auto parts store. same as common chrysler and ford a/c relays. match it up and be sure replacement at least 20 amps minimum. carry as a spare along with a few assorted blade fuses under the seat somewhere. i carry small assortment in plastic sandwich bag taped to front of battery.
    Sounds like a plan; I’m all in on that one!



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