Reply With QuoteIm tellin ya lunatic, put those solid mounts on there and even ztl1 feels pretty good. ..granted, you still gotta be pretty heavy handed with them but a man of my testosterone count has the massive forearm power thats needed to slow the bike down...
I really don't like that rotor. Well, actually, I like the EBR and the Buell rotor and that is it. BTW, here are a couple of the rotors thats were made :Originally Posted by Silverrider
The "Braking" rotor (I definitly hate this one, sorry silverrider !) :
The "EBC" rotor (not too bad, but still not that good looking to me)
The Buell rotor (looks good !) :
The wave rotor (not sure about the brand but I think it is avdb)
The TwinMotorcycle rotor (looks good also) :
And the awesome looking (to me) EBR brake rotor :
There might be some others but I cant fined them right now !
Im tellin ya lunatic, put those solid mounts on there and even ztl1 feels pretty good. ..granted, you still gotta be pretty heavy handed with them but a man of my testosterone count has the massive forearm power thats needed to slow the bike down...
Dont be Koi .
Its all good, many to choose from.
Not to sound DUMB but does the ztl2 brake calliper reduce warping of the front rotor? Just reading the post? My ztl2 is silky smooth on the 1125 vs the ztl on my XB. I replaced the pads and cleaned the rotor on the XB, made a noticeable difference. On the XB I’m not sure if the slight pulsation in the brakes is in my head or not.
The ztl2 on the 1125 provides better stopping power and is much smoother.
The ztl on the XB provides me excellent braking for my street riding. I like the better handling in tight corners of the lower unsprung weight of the Buell ztl system. I also appreciate the more predictable stopping power of twin brembo callipers on my Duc.
A brake caliper has zero to do with a rotor warping. Heat is the issue. Friction=heat. If you are continually warping stock brake rotors, you need an upgrade. The upgrade would be an EBR race rotor and solid mounting hardware, a ZTL-2 caliper, a 19mm radial master cylinder, and (IMO) EBC HH pads for the street. Heck, get a TPEHAK brake scoop if you want
Possibly his Royal Highness Valentino Rossi could tell the difference in weight between the 2 calipers, but any of us mere mortals could never tell. Ever. 'Why is my bike handling differently? Oh ya, I put my wallet in my pocket'Haha.
Assuming the rotor is warped is a common mistake. What is is actually doing is sticking-sliding-sticking-sliding to the pads and you need to find out why. Stuck mounting hardware or uneven pad deposits will feel exactly the same. Replacing the rotor usually solves all 3 issues, reinforcing the original incorrect assumption. But you'll want to know if you have an actual overheating/ warping issue that needs to be solved.
Remove and properly clean the rotor (clean wire, not grit) and all the hardware, lubricate the hardware with anti-seize. Then properly re-bed the brakes. While the rotor is off, check it for flatness on glass or I use a cheap wheel balance stand to check run-out.
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...l-instructions
Thanks, I’ll clean the rotor and lub the calliper. The EBC HH pads did make a huge difference. I didn’t mean to infer I could tell the difference in weight between the ztl, the ztl2 and dual brembos. I find the XB is more stable in the tight corners. I assume that is a product of many things, including the lighter wheel and brakes. I’m a simple back road carver that likes to think I could be a challenge to Rossi! 🤪
Thats funny 46 better watch out! FYI there's nothing on the caliper to lube, it's solid mounted to the fork leg. I meant to clean and lubericate the brake rotor 'floating' hardware after you remove the rotor from the wheel to check it. Check out the link I gave you
A brake caliper has zero to do with a rotor warping. Heat is the issue. Friction=heat. If you are continually warping stock brake rotors, you need an upgrade. The upgrade would be an EBR race rotor and solid mounting hardware, a ZTL-2 caliper, a 19mm radial master cylinder, and (IMO) EBC HH pads for the street. Heck, get a TPEHAK brake scoop if you want
Possibly his Royal Highness Valentino Rossi could tell the difference in weight between the 2 calipers, but any of us mere mortals could never tell. Ever. 'Why is my bike handling differently? Oh ya, I put my wallet in my pocket'
Assuming the rotor is warped is a common mistake. What is is actually doing is sticking-sliding-sticking-sliding to the pads and you need to find out why. Stuck mounting hardware or uneven pad deposits will feel exactly the same. Replacing the rotor usually solves all 3 issues, reinforcing the original incorrect assumption. But you'll want to know if you have an actual overheating/ warping issue that needs to be solved.
Remove and properly clean the rotor (clean wire, not grit) and all the hardware, lubricate the hardware with anti-seize. Then properly re-bed the brakes. While the rotor is off, check it for flatness on glass or I use a cheap wheel balance stand to check run-out.
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...l-instructions
Unless the pistons are sticking causing drag... and we all know what that caliper likes to do when it gets warmer. FWIW, all of my Buell’s have had sticky pistons, and a disassembly and cleaning has worked wonders.
I agree with you 34:19 but I believe his question was if a different caliper would change his brakes overheating. A rotor sure would, but not a caliper, as long as it's functioning properly.
Have you really had that many problems with Buell calipers sticking? That sucks man, I hadn't heard that was an issue. But it is a largely ignored itemConsidering it's importance you'd think more people would take better care of them. MUFFLER! YES! Brake upgrade? Meh...
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