No one said brake scoops are never needed on pure race bikes.
I said your brake scoop is good looking, but your brake scoop is untested and very well could block airflow making it worse. No one knows, until its tested to ask:
1) Does it affect the brake temp?
2) Does it cool the brake caliper/ rotor?
3) Is it effective?
4) Is it needed?
I already feel huge difference, now my brake works smoother and no chattering at all on long slopes. So for me this question is answered, this airscoop cools the brake down good enough.
The reason for the brake air duct is for cooling of the brake caliper only. The problem they had with the braking system was brake fade from the boiling of the brake fluid. This was due to the mass of the single caliper and the fact that “that mass” could not dissipate the heat fast enough under extreme braking conditions.
If you look at a conventional sport bike rotor designs…
First, they are dual caliper, which gives you more brake fluid to not only absorb heat, but to dissipate it at a faster rate throughout the entire braking system.
Second, because of the dual setup, they are made smaller and thinner which again dissipates heat more quickly.
Third, the rotors themselves are smaller and thinner, which again do I have to go on…
On a street bike, the cooling duct is unnecessary, cool but unnecessary.
Why do you think ‘wickedchop” is always asking for a late model GSXR conversion for his bike.
(There is a man that knows what is truly is effective on the race track.)
It does look cool, much better appearance than the factory parts. In street conditions I haven't noticed a difference with the EBR scoop vs not having it so I'm a bit skeptical when you say you noticed a huge difference. Michigan is pretty flat so Im not super hard on the brakes. Thats just my experience.
A simple test could be to run the caliper temperature strip stickers. They have some that are 250°F-536°F and some that are for lower temp service like 149°-248°.
Some sanding on those parts would make them look real nice, have you considered doing that to smooth them out?
I'm OK with layered texture, and it looks like factory plastic parts until you watch on it not very close. If you want to remove printing texture you need to sand it, prime it, sand it again and paint it.
Looks awesome! Do not forget to post pictures with installed parts! I love HP printer parts texture, those nylon HP parts should last forever, my PLA parts still work with no issues.
will do. placing and order with mcmaster tomorrow for stuff, ill order up the needed hardware and install it.
Yes, the HP builds great parts. I should have my new HP color printer 1st quarter of next year!..... Id love to build this on my MarkForged X but the supported downface will look horrible.
Those have a much more finished look off of that hp printer. We just got a new stratasys printer at work. Hopefully we get some black asa material soon. Its supposed to have great UV resistance.