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Thread: Unpacking the New to Me 1125cr - Winter Project

  1. #1
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    Unpacking the New to Me 1125cr - Winter Project

    Started poking around my CR and just finished verifying the PO was a little relaxed with the upkeep of this bike. The motorcycle is charging fine but it has the HD wire harness installed. I'm not too worried about it right now but overhauling the charging system is going on the short-short list of to dos. Couple of questions:

    1) Is EBR or ericbuellracing.com still accepting orders? The website is up and functional.
    2) The deanadams crank locking tool is out of stock on his website. Does he build them to order? Probably better to ask him directly?
    3) The bike has 22,000KMS so it's due for a valve adjustment. Do you require the cam locking tool? or is that tool only needed when reassembling the heads?
    4) When doing the valve adjustment, who is the right person to order shims from? I have a not-so-local HD dealer that is Buell friendly. With my Ducati, typically the valves work them selves tight so I all do is sand down the shims with fine grain sandpaper, if they need adjustment at all.
    5) I have a StreetRod with the REVO motor. Valve adjustment is NEVER required, typically needs to be inspected and confirmed. Do the Rotax valves often come out of adjustment?
    6) Drilling the ROTOR!!! Has anyone drilled their own rotor? I have a drill press and lots of patience. I have drilled stainless steel tubes that were about 5 inches in diameter without issue. I have seen the EBR method online and the method of drilling holes around the outer rotor parameter. Any suggestions? Ideas? Comments? Experience?
    7) Last but not least... The Crank Locking Tool - $100 bucks from St. Paul - YIKES!!! I'm not crazy about plowing my crank with a 3/4" impact gun. I have seen pics of Ducati cranks that shattered because of the impact/force of the impact gun. Does anyone have any other suggestions. I'm sure a 1/4 thick nail wouldn't be a good idea.

    OK, maybe I should have posted 7 posts but I'm lazy...

    Thank you in advance!

  2. #2
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    1, yes
    2, having some made currently
    3, no
    4, hot cams shim kit
    5, some do, some don't
    6, no. unless you have an edm machine and know what you're doing, don't.
    7, mine's a little cheaper cost, do NOT, and i'll repeat this part, do NOT use a damn impact on it. yes, it's 300 ft/lbs, rent or borrow a torque wrench that will go that high. the crank lock tool is a hardened piece, plain steel stock will not work.

  3. #3
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    Thank You for your response

  4. #4
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    I hate being told NO! The more people tell me I can't do something, the more I need to prove them WRONG! This is probably why I ride Buells. When someone questions why I have one, I go out and buy another one. The girlfriend has finally stopped asking :-)

    I have being doing some simple tests to see if I can drill my charging rotor... I spent $100 bucks for a crank tool because I refuse to hammer my crank with an impact gun BUT I'm willing to drill a $500.00 assembly on a 45 degree angle. I'm NOT a machinist, I'm a backyard hack! I have purchased #69 drill bits and 1/4" drill bits and attempted to drill a couple pieces of metal on a 45 degree angle. I have found that with a hand drill and a soft touch, I can drill almost anything. BUT! BUT! my accuracy is in question. Since I'm holding the drill its impossible to keep it steady. I'm easily drilling a size or two bigger. I used a drill press with a flat piece of steel and it took me almost an hour to setup a crude jig. As soon as the drill bit touched the steel it moved at least an 1/8 of an inch. Not good since there is only a 1/4 inch channel to drill.

    A couple of years ago I took a 6 foot piece of rounded SS stock (sailboat rudder) to a machinist to drill and after a month he still hadn't done the work. I was able to drill the piece with a hand drill. This has giving me great confidence BUT I think I'm beat on this one. I have seen posts on badweather about a blown top end that could possibly be traced back to an improperly drilled charging rotor from a local machine shop. Not only is a $500.00 rotor in jeopardy but my entire bike motor is.

    SO I'm going to bite the bullet and contact EBR and Lance (St. Paul HD). Right now Canada post is in a labor dispute and I've been waiting almost a month for parts but its NOVEMBER so I'm not missing too much saddle time. I would love to drill my own rotor and flaunt my work on buellxb.com but I also like my bike. I read a post a little while ago about a backyard mechanic like my self that has approximately a 90% success rate with doing his own work. I feel the same about my own work, after all it's not exactly ROCKET SCIENCE ;-) but frying my top end would drop me down to at least a 47.3% success rate. There isn't anything wrong with admitting I can't do something.

    Who knows, when my crank tool does eventually decide to show up I may discover I already have the rotor mod performed on my bike.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Making a very small, and not very deep, pilot hole in the steel prior to using the drill press should do the trick.
    Use some cutting oil/lube and take your time.
    I’m curious as to why this “hole” is so difficult to drill.

    I have no 1125 experience.
    Just throwing and idea out there

  6. #6
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    EXACTLY, Right! Unfortunately the 2009/2010 1125 motor had a known stator charging issue. The only permanent fix is a 0.30” hole drilled through the flywheel’s hub. The hole is an orfice to spray oil to cool the stator. That’s a small ass hole drilled at a 45 degree angle in the center of a hub. No small feet for a backyard hack.

    Google “oil cooling” and a pic of an 1125cr will be your first hit

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    Senior Member wickedchop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicknstripn View Post
    Making a very small, and not very deep, pilot hole in the steel prior to using the drill press should do the trick.
    Use some cutting oil/lube and take your time.
    I’m curious as to why this “hole” is so difficult to drill.

    I have no 1125 experience.
    Just throwing and idea out there
    I'd use a center punch even before drilling a pilot hole in any metal, just my two cents......

  9. #9
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Total agree- Center punch is a given when drilling metal.

  10. #10
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverrider View Post
    Yes! Save 200 to spend 2000. Lol thank You



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