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Thread: Unpacking the New to Me 1125cr - Winter Project

  1. #11
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    Ugh! The clutch slave cylinder was “dry” when I checked the bike out and remained dry for a month. Found a little puddle of DOT4 on the floor.

    Question! Oberton slave kit or EBR slave kit? Opinions? I’m only interested in fixing the problem.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    Oberton slave kit , Is the best, I installed on my EBR

    Great thread by Cooter

    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...n+slave+cooter
    Last edited by Silverrider; 11-06-2018 at 02:27 PM.

  3. #13

  4. #14
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    Excellent pics, working right now with EBR to order a modified rotor

  5. #15
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    poking away at the girl, unfortunately I'm not the first hack on this bike. Little things like the starter solenoid cover and other little wire tie down bits are missing. Can anyone tell me if the wiring harness and starter cable power wire (thick bugger) run across the top of the throttle bodies or bellow. I suspect below because it looks like the wiring harness is causing a little resistance on the throttle linkage. If someone has a clear pic of the top of the motor with the airbox cover completely removed, I'd be very grateful.

    EBR clutch actuator cylinder and EBR modified charging rotor are ordered. There is no current issues with my charging system, and it has the HD wiring harness addition. I'm replacing on spec, I don't want to have a charging issue that knocks my bike down for a season waiting for parts.

    The engine rotation procedure is pretty straight forward, similar to the XB. My next step is to pull the valve covers and check the valve clearance. Bike has 20,000 KMS and now is as good of time as any to check. Oh and Spark Plugs, WHAT A PITA!!! I imagine with some lube and the fingers of a toddler, changing the front plug is possible without rotating the engine, but not with my tree stump fingers.

    003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg
    Last edited by pdksh; 11-25-2018 at 03:55 PM.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    The trick is to use a short piece of 3/8" fuel line pushed on the plug. It works as a flexible extension to install it. Works well for everything! Motorhomes, headers, big blocks in old mustangs, big blocks in anything lol

  7. #17
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    Thx for the tip

    I have a “snake” of extensions and universals that I use for the spark plugs on the XB. I’ll try the hose trick.

    Question about shims. I can’t see any number, stamp or color code on the value shims. I suspect the ink has been beaten off.

    Is the only way to determine shim size is with a micrometer?

  8. #18
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Yes.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    The trick is to use a short piece of 3/8" fuel line pushed on the plug. It works as a flexible extension to install it. Works well for everything! Motorhomes, headers, big blocks in old mustangs, big blocks in anything lol

    LOL I have to add we use a clear tube to install indicator lights on the our machines.
    Congrats on the bike. I'm starting the winter mods as well finally.

  10. #20
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    I ordered a hotcams shim kit, should be delivered any day. All my measurements were on the tight end of the spec. The two rear cylinder exhaust were too tight. I called the local HD stealer with the VROD shim part numbers and they didn't have any in stock. I have a street rod (redheaded step child of the vrod) and the shims are compatible between the 1125 motor and the vrod motor - WOOPIE! From what I read the vrod motor rarely needs shims replaced unless you do motor work, but it did justify my purchase. kit was cheap enough.

    I plan on replacing all 8 shims and adjusting the valve lash to the loose end of the spec. I want to get this thing back together, its really amazing how much oil will continue to drip out of the motor, its making a real mess of my floor!



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