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Thread: werid shudder that i can't seem to put my finger on

  1. #21
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    So this even happened to you ( Cooter ) even though you change the bearings when you change out the tires ?

  2. #22
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    I think he was borrowing that bike.

  3. #23
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    ^^^^^

    I just re-torqued my front wheel on my new-to-me buell. The previous owner must have torqued it down to AT LEAST 150 ft/lbs. I had to stand on a breaker bar to crack the axel free. Yes I know it's a LH thread. I re-checked the manual because I thought I was loosing my mind! I will measure the front wheel spacer, good tip. Just because the XB has a tractor motor, doesn't mean you fix it like a tractor.

  4. #24
    everything else has been pulled and checked.

    Center bearing spacer was chewed up when the first set of bearings failed. This was replaced with a heavier one I made up to a measurement of a new one. Everything torqued up correctly using a calibrated snap on digital torque wrench.

    New wheel is in the works as I've spoken to a few guys at work about some CNC time. Even spoke to my supervisor who races in the endurance racing over here in UK and he can't suggest anything that we haven't thought of.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I did borrow that M-2 for the Eclipse trip. So sad you haven't been back out Opto!
    The owner had just installed the XB suspension brakes and wheels with new bearings. I found out later he had also 'shaved down the spacer a tiny bit for more pre-load'. Don't do that. They are roller bearings, not tapered bearings (and that would still be wrong)

    I really really liked the bike though! About 4000 miles in a month and a half

    Fattyjr: Where did you find the length and tolerance spec of that stock spacer? I need that info again! IIRC the tolerance is TINY.

  6. #26
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    New wheel is in the works as I've spoken to a few guys at work about some CNC time.

    LOL


    over here in UK
    that explains this entire thread.

  7. #27
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    Fattyjr: Where did you find the length and tolerance spec of that stock spacer? I need that info again! IIRC the tolerance is TINY.

    this coming from THE guy who knows everything? Christ Almighty shaughn. LOL here ya go....for TWO BEARING HUB!!!

    OEM part # G0323.02A8----suffix L19-D 34 left in system....retail $11.99

    Danny Hurda from BMC kind enough to send me the info below long before it ever appeared in any service manuals----

    Rear Spacer Tube: 202.8 +/- 0.05 mm, 7.984 +/- 0.002 inch
    Front Spacer Tube: 107.9 +/- 0.05mm, 4.248 +/- 0.002 inch

  8. #28
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    Just my 2cents but use of a proper "blind hole" slide hammer bearing puller makes the wheel bearing removal easy, and helps protect the bearing spacer. Bashing the bearing with a long punch could nick and damage the spacer and possibly damage the wheel hub.

    It's impressive how easy it is to damage an aluminum casting with a bearing that's not straight. I did a number on a control arm replacing a lower ball joint on an ATV. I really like big hammers ;-)

  9. #29
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Lunatic strikes again! Thanks bro, I'll copy paste to my Invaluable Buell Info notes and owe you another beer... 0.002" ya... tiny. Just shows how easy it is to overload the side pressure on that bearing.

    pdksh: Might be a good idea to just buy a new spacer for only $12 of insurance. I had a rash of Buell bearing failures, but once I took them seriously with proper maintenance and torque all the issues went away.

    Bearing this in mind. (PUUUNNN!) I don't consider Buell's to have 'bearing issues', just one of those parts that won't take as much un-maintained abuse as the rest of these rock solid machines.

  10. #30
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    pdksh: Might be a good idea to just buy a new spacer for only $12 of insurance. I had a rash of Buell bearing failures, but once I took them seriously with proper maintenance and torque all the issues went away.
    I agree with the Coots.

    I buy new sleeves whenever I buy new bearings. All it takes is one hamfisted knucklehead PO to overtighten it, crush the sleeve a little and have a bunch of bearing issues later. Having a wheel bearing grenade at speed is not the result I want from reusing a $12 part.

    Plus the sleeves make for a great drift for other projects as they are pretty soft al-yoo-min-ium.



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