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Thread: Changing Front Tire

  1. #1
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    Changing Front Tire

    Decided I'm going to take the plunge and start doing my own tire changes.

    Front tire on the 1125 is my first go at it.

    My first speed bump was lack of a 22mm hex bit. Mine did not come with that adapter in the tool bag and jamming a spark plug wrench in there didn't seem like a great idea. Ordered the multi-size axle socket from Amazon.

    Next potential problem is getting the caliper off. Since I have it on a standard front fork stand I can't easily rotate the caliper holder to remove it as instructed in the service manual.

    If I remove the axle and drop the wheel (thereby allowing it to move towards the motor a bit) will I have enough room to wiggle off the caliper?

    I suppose this is a long way of asking if the front tire be changed using a standard front fork wheel stand?

    If no one knows I'll follow up and answer the question for posterity.

  2. #2
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    There are cutouts on the back side of the caliper, they'll line up with the spokes. Tape the spokes off with masking tape to prevent scratching. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push/pry the pads back into the caliper (both sides) to allow for maximum room to remove the caliper if you want to do it that way. It can be left attached to the fork if you want, but I usually remove it (leave the brake line connected) just to have it out of the way.

    Use a spark plug socket to loosen the axle. Easy way is use a 6" extension and put it into the socket from the front side.

    plug1179970389.jpg

    Pitbull stands work well, I assume the cheaper ones will as well. T-Rex, Venom, whatever.

  3. #3
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    My first speed bump was lack of a 22mm hex bit. Mine did not come with that adapter in the tool bag and jamming a spark plug wrench in there didn't seem like a great idea. Ordered the multi-size axle socket from Amazon.

    typical great info from dean.
    see my pic. it works like a charm every time. all BUELL...BMW....V-STROM...ASSORTED OTHER HOLLOW AXLES.
    if nothing else extremely helpful to know and remember this for road-side assistance as well as typical shop work.

    wEl.rmvl2.jpg

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I have the problem that most of my large spark plug socks don't have the 3/8" square broached all the way through. Grrr...
    I've had to jam a 5/8" nut (usually a 13/16" hex) on a bolt and use that. It doesn't work as well.

    OP, since you are new at this let me recommend two things:
    1) Replace your wheel bearings regardless of mileage. They are cheap, easy to swap (6004-2RS front, 6005-2RS rear IIRC, Lunatic has the right ones) and will save you a trip one day.
    2) Torque the axles correctly. Since you don't have the axle tool, you probably need to buy a torque wrench but do it anyway. Front wheel is 20 ft/lbs, spin it, back off 2 turns and then re-torque to 40ft/lbs. The rear is the same procedure 25ft/lbs- 50 ft/lbs (IIRC)

    IMO

  5. #5
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    I have checked all of my spark plug sockets (one free in every box of cereal it seems like) and ones at the hardware store. None of them are bored all the way through. I picked up a funny looking tool that has stepped metric sizes like 19mm, 22mm. 24mm with a 3/8 socket at a local bike shop. When I needed a side of the road tire change, the YAMAHA bike shop mechanic welded two bolts together to make a tool. I told him I had the tool under the seat if he had asked. I think St. Paul HD is selling them on sale for a ridiculous low price.

    ^^^ Change those Bearings ^^^ +1

  6. #6
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bat-1 View Post
    Decided I'm going to take the plunge and start doing my own tire changes.

    Front tire on the 1125 is my first go at it.

    My first speed bump was lack of a 22mm hex bit. Mine did not come with that adapter in the tool bag and jamming a spark plug wrench in there didn't seem like a great idea. Ordered the multi-size axle socket from Amazon.

    Next potential problem is getting the caliper off. Since I have it on a standard front fork stand I can't easily rotate the caliper holder to remove it as instructed in the service manual.

    If I remove the axle and drop the wheel (thereby allowing it to move towards the motor a bit) will I have enough room to wiggle off the caliper?

    I suppose this is a long way of asking if the front tire be changed using a standard front fork wheel stand?

    If no one knows I'll follow up and answer the question for posterity.

    Get a bolt with a 7/8 head and 2 nuts jam them on it , you will be good to go.

  7. #7
    Junior Member
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    Feb 2018
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    Got the axle tool before I read any of this. Clever thing that. Worked great, axle came out without issue.

    IMG-20181208-151230.jpg

    Once the wheel dropped and was able to move towards the motor there's enough room to remove the caliper. I had already removed the mounting bolts. Not sure if it would work with the caliper still mounted.

    So now I'm bearing shopping: All Balls or Drag Specialties? Anything superior? I'm no racer.

    I have several torque wrenches and this tool is a standard 3/8 inch drive so no problem there.

  8. #8
    Senior Member wickedchop's Avatar
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    All balls.......do the right thing and PM John and get them from him! (Lunaticfringe)

  9. #9
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    SKF seems to have good buzz on the forums. Never bought bearings before.

  10. #10
    Junior Member
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    Feb 2018
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    So is the advice to replace the bearings because there are known issue with the stock one's?

    Here's what mine look like:

    IMG-20181211-115436.jpg

    The bike is going on 11 years old but only has 7k on it.

    I ended up ordering SKF brand. All Balls are not universally loved to put it mildly. Rebranded Chinese from what I read.



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