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Thread: Changing Front Tire

  1. #31
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    New to me 08 1125R 16K miles. Mounted, balanced desperately needed front, Shinko Apex. Hand tire irons, tires, rim warmed by wood stove, no issues. ordered FAG bearings, existing bearings feel like a box O rox, scary. Brake pads "getting thin" new on order. My 1/2" drive spark plug socket allowed the extension inside LOL. With fender removed, t-rex stand works fine with a bushing I turned to fit the Buell stem.
    Last edited by gggGary; 02-06-2019 at 02:49 PM.

  2. #32
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    I don't have a hard answer for this, the set up should be mostly universal?
    While changing a tire, I felt a bad bearing in the front wheel. New to me bike 2008, 16K street miles no obvious water intrusion. Ordered new bearings and pulled the old, yup one was well on the way out felt rough and notchy, pulled a seal and it was ugly in there, bearing was too close to failure for my taste, inner race sloppy loose. Before pulling the old bearings I had noticed one race was sitting proud of the wheel flange, the other side flush, the axle sleeve was a bit loose. I tapped the bearing til the sleeve was snug but the bearings felt awful. So new bearings, seated one side, set the sleeve in and things just didn't look right. Got out gauges and found the sleeve is .014" strong of the flange to flange distance. Now I don't know the engineering, but it seems like those two dimensions should be the same? anybody know?
    old bearings, bad on the right.
    received_978665585673546.jpg

    Measuring, zeroed at the flange, consistent at zero all the way around.
    DSCN3758.jpg
    then the end of the sleeve .013" to .015" tall of the flange.
    DSCN3762.jpg

  3. #33
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    Ps I am aware that the machined flange has two "levels" I am comparing the sleeve to the higher outer area of the flange where the race sits.

  4. #34
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    Thanks for reply;
    My question I guess, the spacer (sleeve) as found in this 1125R is longer than the flange to flange distance. So is the factory procedure to tighten the second race to the spacer and the outer race just "floats" in it's bore, by design it does NOt contact the inner flange? I quickly ran through the service manual and did not find a service length spec for the spacer, do you know of one? This seems like a departure from "standard practice" where the inner and outer race both are positively located for width? Is this why front wheel bearings are a periodic replacement item on this bike while other bikes I own seldom if ever need wheel bearing replacement? Does the method as I understand it have something to do with the relatively unsupported "buckyball" hub? My gut says I should machine the spacer to match the flange to flange distance. Thanks again for comments.

  5. #35
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    Sorry, reread your reply and you are saying what I am, that the spacer length must = the flange distance. will post back here with both dimensions on this assembly.

  6. #36
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    Yes, the spacer should be slightly longer than distance between the flanges. Read service manual for proper bearing installation. You have to press one bearing on one side up to the bearing pocket bottom, then install the spacer and then press the opposite side bearing until the inner races of the bearings will hold the spacer between them. Do not try to force the bearing over that point otherwise you will damage the bearings. Opposite side bearing will never touch the pocket bottom by outer race.

  7. #37
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I concur with the above statements. Do NOT try to bottom out the outer race in the bearing bore. The bearing inner races and spacer make the solid 'tube' the axle torques too.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    when installing new bearings on a FRONT wheel assembly it makes NO difference which side is installed first....as it does on the rear wheel.
    Just follow manual, always install the brake side bearing first with the lettering facing out from the hub. The brake side bearing pocket bottom is datum surface for determining the brake rotor base surface position. The manual even considers bearing tolerances stack up so orient the brake side bearing properly! Just do what manual says, you don't want to end up with brake caliper and brake rotor misalignment even it might be insignificant.


    Last edited by LazyZ; 02-09-2019 at 05:46 AM.

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