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Thread: Replacement Sensors for X1?

  1. #1
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    Replacement Sensors for X1?

    Hi everyone, this is my first Buell, an '00 X1, and I'm trying to get it running better.
    I jumped the two pins on the diagnostic port and I'm getting codes for a bad engine temperature sensor, IAT, and fuel pump. Bike runs, but idles very rough.
    I'm looking to replace these parts, and I noticed some threads for automotive fuel pumps that work as well as a Ford IAT, but I can't find any cross referenced parts for the engine temperature sensor. Any leads before I shell out $80 for a new one? I'll probably run the multimeter tests in a day or so before getting any parts, but I wanted to go ahead and shop around if possible. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Sire: may i suggest something before you go parts shopping? go thru the entire bike including all your grounds and the battery terminals and cable ends....clean and reinstall everything. it's extremely rare for a sportster powered tuber to store all these historical fault codes and the ETS and IAT in particular typically assoicated with loss of ground/low voltage signal resulting in dumped code. i haven't worked on a tube buell in ages so don't recall where all your grounds are but they should be easily located. and the rough idling? replace your plugs with NGK iridium in stock heat range and see what you have. should help.

  3. #3
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    Thanks. I tested the resistances of the ETS and IAT last night, and the both seemed in spec for their values at roughly 60F. However, I couldn't get an accurate reading for the ETS once the bike was warmed up, mostly getting an OL reading on my meter which could be user error (I had one lead to the wire coming off the ETS, the other lead touching the ETS's metal body). As for the fuel pump code, I have properly tested pressure, but I rode it after I picked it up at 65-75mph for about 10 minutes with no issues, so I think fuel delivery is fine.
    I've only had it for a few days, and it's my first Buell (mostly used to Japanese bikes), so what I may consider rough idling may just be in the character of the engine, though it seems like it's power delivery should be smoother in the lower rpms.
    I'll start with the basics, finding/cleaning the grounds, replacing plugs. I'm hoping that's my issue since the bike only has 6700 miles on it. Only aftermarket thing on it is a conical air intake filter. Though I do wish there were a way to clear the codes.

  4. #4
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    I just ordered the BuellTooth dongle so I can check out the ecm stats.
    I pulled the sparkplugs last night, and they were black and sooty, so it's running rich. They were cheap champion plugs, so I'm going to replace them today with NGK ones.
    How would the coil be oily?
    I cleaned up the battery terminals, and the battery to battery tray ground strap. I actually relocated battery's ground wire to go straight to the grounding strap that connects near the swingarm to see if it made any difference. I initially thought it did, but after the bike warmed up it threw the same three codes again.
    The air intake is a K&N filter at the very least. I'll see if there are any air leaks around it. It has the port for the IAT sensor built it and seems like it's the correct fit. I also noticed the throttle body vacuum port underneath was plugged with painters tape. I think I read somewhere that it's supposed to be plugged, so I stuck a rubber hose over the port and sealed off the other end with an awl to act as a plug.

  5. #5
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    Ok, so I tested the coil. on the wiring harness side, the two outer pins measure 1.3 ohms (primary), and the two pins that connect to the plug wires measure 11.5kohm (secondary). Both of these seem pretty off assuming I'm measuring it correctly based on the service manual. The harness side should be between 0.5-0.7 ohm and the plug wire side should be 5500-7500 ohm.
    So.... replace coil?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreygata View Post
    Ok, so I tested the coil. on the wiring harness side, the two outer pins measure 1.3 ohms (primary), and the two pins that connect to the plug wires measure 11.5kohm (secondary). Both of these seem pretty off assuming I'm measuring it correctly based on the service manual. The harness side should be between 0.5-0.7 ohm and the plug wire side should be 5500-7500 ohm.
    So.... replace coil?
    those resistance readings for both the primary windings and the secondary windings are quite high. i'd simply replace the coil.
    the OEM part # is 31639-99 it crosses over to several other models but correct for all 1999-2002 X model tube buells.
    list is around $100. plenty available.
    st. paul H-D has them for 10% off plus shipping. that's as good of a price as you'll find for new. and considering the age of your X1 i'd replace the plug wires while you're fiddling. the end boots and tower connectors should be find. simply transfer them over to new wire cut to proper length. if you struggle finding the wire let me know and i'll send you some. it's standard automotive size for older vehicles.

  7. #7
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    I've never constructed a new plug wire before, so that'd be new to me. The front wire seems to be lacking holding power on the coil side. The rear has a definitive "snap" noise when plugged in, whereas the front doesn't.
    I'll look into the st paul site. I've run across them a few times before looking at parts pricing. A little annoying that I have to scan the bike's title, but I get it

  8. #8
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    Well it appears that I tested my coil incorrectly and it's actually fine, so I ordered a part for no reason. So now I'm back at square one, except I have a Bluetooth dongle I can read the codes and maps with now. I'll likely do a TPS reset while I'm there. I also scored a replacement rear shock for about $70

  9. #9
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    Alright I got it fixed. Ended up getting a buelltooth dongle, and ran ecm Droid to see what was up. All but the ETS sensor were historical. So one new ETS later, and I'm doing no more errors and it runs better.

    On the downside, that $70 shock I ordered got lost in the mail somewhere



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