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Thread: 08 xb12scg Stator magnets

  1. #1
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    08 xb12scg Stator magnets

    Hi fellows I hope all is well. This is my 1st post so please be easy on me. My stator started going bad a couple weeks ago so I parked it and did the the stator tests. It was putting out 80v a.c. at 4k rpm's. Not grounded out. Tested the plug ends and they showed 0 ohms with a cheap meter. I know its suppose to register 0.1 - 0.3. I purchased a new stator just in case yesterday and so I'm waiting for it to come in. When I took it apart today I found that the coils looks like new but the magnets (all 5) inside the sprocket came loose and were end to end but are not damaged. Could those magnets be giving a false ac reading? I was wanting advice on what glue to use or should I get a new sprocket with the magnets already attached. Would prefer to use some type of glue to save money if possible. Hope I've explained myself well and any replies will be welcomed and respected.

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    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    When I took it apart today I found that the coils looks like new but the magnets (all 5) inside the sprocket came loose and were end to end but are not damaged. Could those magnets be giving a false ac reading?
    YES

    I was wanting advice on what glue to use or should I get a new sprocket with the magnets already attached. Would prefer to use some type of glue to save money if possible.
    YES-----reattach them. i've done it many times thru the decades. and here's how:
    1-clean inside of your rotor. glass bead with plastic media or walnut shell if possible. if not possible then just lightly sand with 1500 till it's pretty. BE DAMN SURE TO mark on the rotor where the magnets go prior to doing this.
    2-do the same to the back side of the magnets.
    3-clean rotor and magnet surfaces with either brake cleaner or contact cleaner.
    4-mix up equal parts of JB WELD.....NOT the quick setting....the 24 hour setting type. one tube black goop...other tube white goop. that's the sh*t right there!
    5-apply liberal amount to each surface...attach....clamp with little C-clamps or improvise as required. the light clamping force is the key.
    6-let sit @ room temp for 48 hours to fully cure.
    NOTE: new stator lists for $392.98.....cost of JB Weld $3.99 this is a savings of approx. $389. please feel free to paypal me the difference for this sage advice. use friends/family tab so no fee on my end.

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    I miscounted the number of magnets. There are 6 magnets for the rotor

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    Thank you and I will do

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    Since I've never done this before, I don't know if the following recommendations can be done without causing any further damage.

    After you clean the surface the first time, heat the surface up a little bit, this will bring any impregnated oil to the surface, then clean again, also if you can roughen up the surfaces a little where the JB weld is going on, it will help with the adhesion a lot !

    Also, if you can get some Belzona or Thortex epoxy instead of the JB weld it will have a much better chance of staying on and for a longer time if not forever ! Nothing against JB weld but this other stuff is just way better.

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    Thanks for the info but I just jb welded about an hr ago with the type that requires a 24hr set up. I did use a little sand paper to roughen it up for a better stick.

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    Ok so its been a couple days since I jb welded the magnets inside the Rotor hub. Today I tested the old stator into the Rotor on my work bench (not on the crankshaft) and there is clearance but only by a fraction. There's maybe a business card thickness at best. Can anyone tell me what the clearance should be or if someone has a rotor with magnets maybe they could put a caliper on it for a measurement of the outer diameter of the Rotor hub to the inside of the magnets? I cant find anywhere the info on how much gap is needed between the rotor magnets and stator. Too me it seems like maybe I dont have enough clearance. I only used a thin layer of weld and clamped the magnets as close as I could to the rotor.

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    So I installed the stator on the bike and used my girlfriends mabelline beige cover makeup on one of the armatures to see if it would run off onto any of the magnets in the rotor. Installed the rotor and gave the engine 3 full rotions. Removed the the Rotor and there wasnt any makeup transfer to the rotor from the stator. I'm satisfied for now and confident that when the new stator gets here and I'm finished putting it all back together it should put out a proper charge. Thank you again for the previous suggestions. I will update my findings after the actual install

  9. #9
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bannon325 View Post
    So I installed the stator on the bike and used my girlfriends mabelline beige cover makeup on one of the armatures to see if it would run off onto any of the magnets in the rotor. Installed the rotor and gave the engine 3 full rotions. Removed the the Rotor and there wasnt any makeup transfer to the rotor from the stator. I'm satisfied for now and confident that when the new stator gets here and I'm finished putting it all back together it should put out a proper charge. Thank you again for the previous suggestions. I will update my findings after the actual install
    that is an excellent way to check rotor-to-stator clearance and you also mentioned a business card. that card is approx. the same thickness as the cover on a book of matches which is .016. how do i know? when in a jam us old bastards would use a business card or book of matches to set ignition point clearance...which was typically .016.....on the road-side or in our dimly lit garages...just to get back on the road again.
    with the clearance you mentioned you should be fine and sounds like your repair worked nicely and saved you a ton of money. well done son!

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    "when in a jam us old bastards would use a business card or book of matches to set ignition point clearance"

    And we older bastards used a dime. A well worn silver dime was just about right for a 4 cylinder ford model A or my '31 Chevvy. Ask a millennial what ignition points are...



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