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Thread: TPS not responding on ECMspy

  1. #11
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    Wow. Yeah that is a very black spark plug, not the oily kind and this thing is virtually new. Dr. Internet says 'overly rich fuel mixture'. My manly gasoline musk will also tell you that.
    Not mine but looks like this
    spcarbon.jpg

  2. #12
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    NGK DCPR9EIX plugs are what you want. It's an air-cooled motor and starting cold has to overcome wall wetting on the intake manifold/head, AFR's are about 12.0-1 with the cold start enrichment table on a 70-80 degree day from what I've seen. Once the engine comes up to 160C the additional enrichment fueling stops and idle should be 14.7-1 AFR as you would expect to see.

  3. #13
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    Got the new plugs gapped & installed today. Used the same plugs and gap specs previously as well.
    Tried to ride it to get a proper warm up/test ride and the more than 20% throttle problem is still there. I tried riding it for 20+ minutes but it just straight up dies once you exceed that 20% threshold. It doesn't even bog down, it just completely dies. It'll start back up but I just keep repeating the cycle, even though I'm trying super hard not to exceed that 20%. It's runs "fine" below that magic limit. I'm at a loss. Very frustrating.

  4. #14
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    How much is the buy in on this one? I've got $5 on CPS.
    Last edited by lowkey; 04-14-2019 at 12:55 AM.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    I’m still thinking the velocity stack isn’t seated all the way down on the throttle body.

    Just for the hell of it. Remove the velocity stack and see if drivability changes.

    You’ve tried everything else about 100 times why not try this once?

  6. #16
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Oh man, CPS is a good one lowkey, but I'm in $2 for secondary ignition (fouled plugs/damaged coil). There's no decent info here to work off (still) but guessing is fun and being lucky feels great!

  7. #17
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    As far as the velocity stack - you mean remove just the rubber and reinstall everything else? Or just run it with no stack/filter/box?
    CPS = cam or crank position sensor??
    I'll look up past posts about the CPS but is there any checking it (resistance I'm guessing) or is it one those sensors that just gives up the ghost randomly?
    As your bookie, I got $5 on CPS, $5 on the stack, $2 on ignition stuff. So far this is a pretty good hourly rate I'm paying for.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Just remove the rubber stack, reinstall everything and see if you can accomplish a ride using more than 20% throttle.

    Yes- CPS: Cam/Crank(whatever you want to call it) Position Sensor. It's located behind the timing cover. Remove timing cover and visually inspect the CPS. If the glue/epoxy, whatever the crap is, that holds the sensor together is melted or delaminated in anyway, you found your problem. If it looks perfectly fine visually then one way that others have tested it is by heating it up with a hair dryer while the bike is idling. If the idle starts to fluctuate drastically then your discovered your issue.

    Good luck

    BTW what year did you say your bike was?
    And p!ease include model, miles and modifications. Just to get everyone on the same page.

  9. #19
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    I presume you have a smartphone? Make a video of the bike running and replicate the problem. With TB/stack exposed can you see anything abnormal while it's running? We have nothing to go on so the best you are going to get is guesses here.

    Yes heat the exposed sensor (nose cone cover off) heat gun or hair dryer, should start running worse as it gets warm if it is failing. It is a hall sensor and there are two notches on a cylinder behind it which trigger top of piston stroke for each cylinder. Your sensor isn't completely dead yet as the bike will start, can't test with volt meter in this state.

    Velocity stack seated properly should be as simple as running your finger down and feeling that the rubber meets the TB without any gap. Outer lip on the stack must also be seated on the air box base plate. Don't forget to plug AIT sensor into it before installation.

  10. #20
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    OK, so removed ONLY the stack and it runs great. How the hell is a rubber seal related to detecting potential CPS failure? That sensor is down on the engine casing not way up top. It was really strange to be able to actually ride and punch it a few times.

    Oh yeah bike is 07 XB9 Lightning, previous owner put on a K&N air filter on. That's it. I'm the 3rd owner. It did come with the ECM wire so who knows if he messed with EEPROMS/fuel maps/etc. Like I said earlier, it had just fine since I bought it in August. Appreciate the the input!!



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