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Thread: So I found an XB12Ss, and here she is

  1. #11
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Yes, 34:19 is right. Pulsing rotors are typically mis-diagnosed as warped, when stuck hardware or uneven brake pad deposits can be the case. Cleaning the hardware and rotor, then re-bedding the pads is much cheaper than a new rotor. But if you do want one, PM LunaticFringe on here

    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...l-instructions

    And if you want to try to get that panty droppin' finish yourself..

    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...cratch-removal

    But BB is a professional, and so very much better than I am... I would take his generous offer first!!

  2. #12
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithd View Post
    So I got it out in the sun today, and it looks like I need to take you up on your offer! It's not horrible, but yeah, should not have used the cover. Live and learn. I managed to get it titled in Nebraska this afternoon without a problem, so that's nice. Got my liability policy too, it's a whopping $75 a year.

    Anyone have experience with aftermarket brake rotors? There's a pulsing when braking, but only at really low speeds like under 5mph. I wish that one site still sold the Fatbar handlebar risers, I really want to get a set.
    LOL, I'd be happy to buff it for you any time. If you decide to take that on yourself its pretty easy. Some 3m perfect-it compound, a good swirl polish (i use meguirs at home), and a coat of wax to top it off. or any good detail shop or body shop could fix u up too. I believe cooter has an enitre thread on buffing buell plastic.
    As for your rotor, I've had good luck remedying that issue by 1: remove the rotor and hardware 2: thoroughly clean all parts with brake clean 3: lay the rotor on a flat bench and sand it with a DA with 80 grit keeping the sander perfectly flat and sanding both sides until all you see is your sanding marks. 4: reinstall rotor and hardware putting a little disc brake caliper grease on the hardware and springs. 4: new pads 5: bed in the brake pads properly. worked on 2 lightnings so far

    and cooter beat me 2 it while i was typing oh, well im leaving it lol

  3. #13
    Senior Member midway's Avatar
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    canyon dancer

  4. #14
    Senior Member wickedchop's Avatar
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    John, try 3M's perfect it on the gas tank with an old white fruit of the loom t-shirt. I'm sure Cody has a much better answer but that has ALWAYS worked for me. Fabiodriven

  5. #15
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Lol good plan Fabio.

    John, I use foam for all buffing and polishing. 3m's (and most other) buffing system has 3 steps of compound/polish and 3 steps of pads. If uve got light swirls get the finest foam pad u can get and go over it with the 3rd step polish of your choosing until you're happy with the result. My final steps at home are to use some Maguire "pre wax" polish by hand and then their wax (California gold) can't do any of that @ work because their products contain silicone of course.
    I'm a bit nuts about the finish on my bikes so I hand polish and wax them every time I wash them.

    And thank u for the compliment btw
    Last edited by BuellyBagger; 04-30-2019 at 03:45 PM.

  6. #16
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    I'm surprised, noone said he should try some seafoam on it ?

    P.S. good luck with the bike, I think it's beautiful.
    Last edited by njloco; 05-01-2019 at 02:36 AM.

  7. #17
    So does anyone have recommendations for bar risers and handlebars?

    I hate the pullback on the stock bars, and I really wish they were taller. Power Barn has the LSL risers and LSL Fat Bars, but it's about $240-ish for the risers and handlebars. What I want are bars that are wider, taller and have less pullback to get pressure off my hands.

    The Rox risers look a little fiddly to install since they block some of the stock clamp bolts.

  8. #18
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithd View Post
    So does anyone have recommendations for bar risers and handlebars?

    I hate the pullback on the stock bars, and I really wish they were taller. Power Barn has the LSL risers and LSL Fat Bars, but it's about $240-ish for the risers and handlebars. What I want are bars that are wider, taller and have less pullback to get pressure off my hands.

    The Rox risers look a little fiddly to install since they block some of the stock clamp bolts.
    Ulysses bars? But I'm nearly certain you'll need Ulysses cables

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by BuellyBagger View Post
    Ulysses bars? But I'm nearly certain you'll need Ulysses cables
    Yeah, I figure longer cables are a necessity. No to the Uly bars, they're taller, but the pullback angle is a more severe, 6.5" pullback for the XB, 9" for the Uly.

    I had fatbars on another bike and the wider bars are great.

  10. #20
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    I normally replace all of my stock XB bars with a Renthal low bar. On one I put a Streetfighter on it, but didn’t care for the position. Neither required new cables, but any wider/taller etc and I probably would have.



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