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Member
Which device to check error codes?
I understand there are about 3 or more devices to check error codes. Does someone have positive experience with this one?
https://shop.ecmcables.com/ECMDroid....uell-Stock-ECM
ECMDroid Bluetooth ECM Tuning Dongle Lite
I'm not a mechanic, but need to check an CEL error code on my 2009 Buell xb12Ss.
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You can also download the service manual .pdf from Buellmods.com of Buelltooth.com for free and it will tell you how to jumper the leads on the diagnostic connector to get the codes.
Post what you find here. ECMDroid is a fantastic tool for diagnosis, we'll help you the best we can
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Inactive
nothing needed other than a simple jumper wire. this won't clear them but....will identify them. works like a charm.
DO THIS:
First thing to do is locate your diagnostic test plug. It's an empty four pin connector. If you're looking at it with the pins facing you and the locking tab at the 12:00 position, the pins are numbered as follows:
Pin 1 -- upper right corner
Pin 2 -- lower right corner
Pin 3 -- lower left corner
Pin 4 -- upper left corner
With the ignition switch off, install a jumper wire across pins 1 and 2 in the diagnostic plug.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait approximately 8 seconds for the check engine light to start flashing.
All trouble codes are sent out as a series of flashes. To rettrieve the first digit of the code, simply observe the number of times the lamp flashes.
The transmission of a trouble code is always preceeded by six rapid flashes (about 3 per second). This transmission is followed by a 2 second pause in which the lamp is off. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the first digit of the trouble code. The length of time that the lamp will be either on or off when indicating a trouble code is about 1 second in duration.
Following the transmission of the first digit in the trouble code, there will be another two second pause before the second digit is transmitted.
After the second digit is transmitted, there will be another 2 second pause. After the pause comes another intermission (six rapid flashes) after which the next stored code is transmitted in the same manner. Once all the trouble codes have been displayed, the sequence will repeat.
If all you observe is the rapid flashing, then no trouble codes have been stored.
When done, turn the ignition key off and remove the jumper wire.
There is no way to clear trouble codes using this method. The only way to clear codes without hooking the bike up to a computer is to take the bike through 50 start and run cycles (start engine, run for at least 30 seconds, shut it off).
The trouble codes are as follows:
11 Throttle position sensor
13 Oxygen sensor
14 Engine temperature sensor
15 Intake air temperature sensor
16 Battery voltage
21 Interactive muffler control (XB12 only)
23 Front fuell injector
24 Front ignition coil
25 Rear ignition coil
32 Rear fuell injector
33 Fuell pump
35 Tachometer
36 Cooling fan
44 Bank angle sensor
52, 53, 54, 55 ECM failure
56 Cam sync failure
example: three flashes - 2 sec. pause - (X) - 2 sec. pause - (Y) - 2 sec. pause - (A) - 2 sec. pause - (B) 2 sec. pause - three flashes
...and so on. The codes are preceded and succeeded by three rapid flashes. If, when you turn the key to the on position, all you get are rapid flashes, there is no trouble code.
Last edited by user_deleted; 05-14-2019 at 11:48 PM.
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Member
You guys are awesome. So, I ran the jump wire diagnostic and got one code = 21
INTERACTIVE MUFFLER CONTROL ACTUATOR
How do I troubleshoot this? Got a local mechanic, but he is tied up until next week. Any simple solutions? Can I ride the bike in the meantime?
I did find a troubleshooting diagram on pg 2-129.
Last edited by 1776Brigade; 05-15-2019 at 02:02 AM.
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Ya you can ride it.
Is the exhaust stock? Most aftermarket exhausts don't have the valve so you get the code.
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Member
yes. Stock. I remember the previous owner had somebody lock (turn it off? close it?) it because he thought it sounded better and supposedly got more performance out of it. I took it to a local Buell mechanic and he set up back to operate normally. My guess is, that it's now malfunctioning.
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Make sure the valve on the muffler still moves, take off the air box cover and make sure the actuator moves and the cable is free ECMDroid will also let you "active test" the Interactive Exhaust Valve (IEV) so you can watch it move. If it is indeed broken you can buy a new one for about $150, or I believe LunaticFringe has a repair for the old one if the gears are stripped out.
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Member
I'll check the butterfly valve this evening. The actuator does move and the cable appears to be free.
In the short term, is there a safe way to disable it until I can decide what to do? I ultimately want to upgrade the exhaust, but wasn't prepared to drop $1,000 right now.
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Member
UPDATE: Using the manual I tested the actuator - BUT, it does not move at all.
o close the valve in the muffler, cycle the actuator:
a. Hold the throttle wide open.
b. Turn the engine cut-off switch to RUN.
c. Turn the ignition/light key switch ON.
d. Watch the actuator cycle close/open/close.
When I start the engine and give it gas, it doesn't move at all. Granted, I did not go WOT.
While running, I can manually adjust the actuator and hear the butterfly valve open and close.
I assume this means the servo or actuator unit is a goner. Correct?
And to confirm, if I upgrade to a custom exhaust the actuator would be removed anyway?
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A: ...the engine is NOT running...
Yes, the majority of aftermarket exhaust systems don't have the actuator. And they a vastly less than $1000! Check Buelltooth.com for a full stainless system on the cheap.
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