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Thread: Noisy Girl

  1. #31
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdksh View Post
    Its now an official love hate relationship!!!

    topped up the oil and coolant and left the charger on over night. First thing this morning I pressed the starter button and she started right up!
    I wished it was that easy
    I left the crank inspection cover off and in about 10 seconds of running, half a quart of oil ran onto the floor. I expected a trickle BUT!!!
    Mopped up the oil, pressed the starter button and off she roared to life again
    After 10 minutes of running she stalled dead and posted "COMM ERROR" and "THEFT ERROR"
    I WISH someone was stealing it at this point! I traced every wire and reseated the ECM and the Frame to pod connectors, still receiving COMM and THEFT errors. No Love.
    At one point it attempted to start but behaved like it had a dead battery. The battery is OK (13v) and the cables were tight. I traced the main ground wire to the frame (runs above the swing arm) and found the ground wire "not tight". I added a star lock washer and tightened the main ground.
    Turned the key, the bike cycled up, touched the starter button and VAROOM!

    Not 100% sure if the COMM/THEFT error is resolved but the dash board reported a 14v and I measured 14v at the battery at idle. I did the charging rotor upgrade and removed the Harley wire harness in the spring so I'm not expecting any voltage issues.

    This bike has had me in the fetal position, rocking and crying. My wallet is a lot lighter. My knowledge about the liquid cooled Rotax motor has significantly improved. I'm not sure if this motorcycle has lost it's will to live OR if it just hates me. I'm considering taking it to family counselling. This has not been a pleasant BUELL season for me, and for some insane reason I'm considering buying an EBR1190RX!!! I totally need to go to counselling.

    I'm very greatefull to the BUELL online community, the good folks at buellxb and badweatherbikers have been an incredible aid. Both mechanically and encouraging. I have found a 2008 1125r with 1000 miles... hmmm... I'm sold on the 1203cc Thunderstorm motor, but I want the power that only the liquid cooled 1125/1190 can provide.
    Is there a cure for being a BUELLAGIN!

    The SAGA continues...

    oh an the oil that leaked out of the inspection cover totally ruined my fresh muffler paint job!!!

    Attachment 12281
    I've heard of the COMM/THEFT message coming on when there is voltage issues. Sharp thinking on your part nailing it down so quickly.

  2. #32
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    It’s a Buell - 99% of the time electrical problems are ground related. - Do I owe Lunitic a royalty?
    That doesn’t stop dealers from replacing ECMs. I’ve heard of entire wire harnesses being replaced to fix gremlins. Makes me wonder....
    Anyhoo it was the cheapest route. I’ve spent this weeks bike parts budget.

  3. #33
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    All buttoned back up. The 1125cr is running, I still can't get over the sound. It sounds like a handful of bolts are rattling around in a coffee can. To be fair I must have adjusted my XB's primary chain 38 times the first month I owned it.

    IMG_2107.jpg

    https://youtu.be/LeDMUPcrQ-k

  4. #34
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Did you ever figure out what triggered the meltdown?

    A handful of bolts doesn’t sound right.

    You should post a video for us to listen to.

  5. #35
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    Yes, I think I’ll do that, post a video. I hear a noisy valve train, not the slapping/clapping that I did before. The issue was a valve shim that slipped out. I don’t know why it slipped out. I did use a shim that put the measurements to the loose end of the tolerance. That shim then interfered with the exhaust valve. Then BOOM! Followed by silence

  6. #36
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    I was seriously low on oil, in my excitement to get it ready, I short changed it by half a litre. Knowing I would change the oil in the very near future, after break in I wasn’t too careful.

    Changed the oil, did the proper oil level check, 2.7ish litres and it sounds much better. Still a very noisy top end IMHO.

    This thing is insanely fast. I wish I could squeeze the 1125 motor into my XB12XT. I’m too old and fat to hump this thing. Instead of my normal Buell **** eating grin, I had terror in my eyes.

  7. #37
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    1125's do have a VERY loud valve train. Make sure you're using a V-twin specific oil, and the correct weight for the lowest temp you will ride in like the manual states.
    Track days in 100*+ heat in Florida had me running straight 50w* in the CR. She got MUCH quieter, seemed to run smoother, and definitely ran cooler water temps as well.

    *People do freak out about using thick oil for some reason, but because straight 50w is not any thicker than 20w-50, it's obviously safe. The 20(winter) part is for cold temps, the 50 part is for hot temps. Since I was only using it in extreme conditions in very hot weather, my theory was to put in more of the 50 part and less of the 20(winter) part. Worked for me

  8. #38
    Senior Member rb70383's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdksh View Post
    Instead of my normal Buell **** eating grin, I had terror in my eyes.
    Yea that sums it up for me when I first rode my EBR. I still want a CR....someday. Glad you got it running. Still amazes me how important oil is...

  9. #39
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    The Oil Flame Wars on motorcycle forums are always interesting. I can say Amsoil in the primary makes my XB shift like butter. Thick vs Thin, synth vs mineral... I have been running mineral oil, mostly because of cost. If I only ever put half of the rated mileage (mineral) on my oil, it's hard to justify the expense. I don't flog it around a track and I find that its contaminated with clutch material anyways. I considered putting 10W/40 in the 1125cr but went with 20W/50. With the little riding I plan on doing, and being a fair weather bike I could probably run straight 50.
    Years ago I put 20W/50 Amsoil synthetic into my air cooled Ducati. Almost immediately I noticed clutch slip at high rpm; 8000 to 9000 (bike has a wet clutch). I flushed with 10W/40 a couple of times and even replaced the clutch springs. The bike only had 12,000KMS. She still slips at high rpm and one of these days I'll replace the clutch plates, I suspect the Amsoil messed them up.

  10. #40
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    1125's do have a VERY loud valve train. Make sure you're using a V-twin specific oil, and the correct weight for the lowest temp you will ride in like the manual states.
    Track days in 100*+ heat in Florida had me running straight 50w* in the CR. She got MUCH quieter, seemed to run smoother, and definitely ran cooler water temps as well.

    *People do freak out about using thick oil for some reason, but because straight 50w is not any thicker than 20w-50, it's obviously safe. The 20(winter) part is for cold temps, the 50 part is for hot temps. Since I was only using it in extreme conditions in very hot weather, my theory was to put in more of the 50 part and less of the 20(winter) part. Worked for me
    What brand were you running? I've only seen straight 50w in conventional, and I've seen 60w only at Harley. I'm running Castrol (I think) V-Twin 20W-50. I dont hear the valve train on mine. Mine is less clattery and more "gear whiney" like a Japanese bike.



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