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Thread: Noisy Girl

  1. #11
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Pull the little timing cover. If it always stops at TDC...

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdksh View Post
    Engine isn’t totally seized, I can give the crank a 1/4 turn. I suspect a piston is hitting a bent valve (if I’m lucky)
    Ok, so it isn’t actually seized...

    Something still doesn’t sound right. You should be able to turn the crank in the opposite direction quite a bit, and move the offending piston back into BDC.

    This is probably a good time to look into one of those $20 bore scopes from Amazon and take a peek down the spark plug hole. Or pulling the valve covers should point out the bent valve(s) pretty easily.


    I’ll put my money on it being a failed chain tensioner or guide. Which would explain the noise and possibly the reason why the motor won’t rotate, as the overly slack chain is now snagging on something.

    https://youtu.be/5B_Y3yUE4Gk
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 05-19-2019 at 03:53 AM.

  3. #13
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    fingers crossed...
    Haven't torn into the motor yet, still plugging away on the XT. I have found an engine from a 2008 wrecked 1125r for a reasonable price. I'm not concerned with matching serial numbers. Depending what the issue is, I may install the 2008 motor.

  4. #14
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    was the ticking sound on the video like your 1125?

  5. #15
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    It's not good. Not good at all!!!

    Last night I finally rotated the motor... The first obvious sign that things weren't good on the front cylinder was, one of the intake valves was visibly open when peering down the intake boot. When I removed the front header pipe a pieced of metal, the size of a quarter came out of the exhaust port. Not Good...

    With the front cylinder taken apart; valve cover, cam assembly, head and cylinder sleeve. The issue, a valve shim from one of the intake valves was sitting in a recess of the head. I must have done something seriously wrong when doing the valve lash adjustment, something like; too large of a valve clearance, valve shim not properly seated, something. The cam follower arm clips were properly installed.

    What parts of the crushed valve that wasn't in the exhaust port was inside the head, not allowing the piston to make clear TDC, that's why I could only make a small rotation of the crank. I suspect the intake valve shim interfered with one of the exhaust valves at 5000+ rpm and POP went my head assembly. The cylinder has damage, the piston is so banged up it has pinched the compression rings, the inside of the head is pretty banged up and there is signs of other bent valves. The engine oil was clean and the oil strainer had mild shavings, I've seen a lot worse come out of a health engine.

    I'm negotiating a price for a 2008 1125r motor with 5000KMS according to the owner. I'll be looking for advice on a 2008 to 2009 motor differences/swap.

    Oh and be careful when handling the piston... YIKES! I cut a big gash into my thumb, just touching the damn thing. Did Eric personally sharpen those things to discourage the Japanese from snooping around his designs? (Yes Rotax designed the motor to buell specs... blah blah blah...)

    094.jpg
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    Last edited by pdksh; 07-09-2019 at 01:54 PM.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I hate it when I'm right. What are you going to do? 1275 kit??

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I hate it when I'm right. What are you going to do? 1275 kit??
    Aircooled conversion?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdksh View Post
    It's not good. Not good at all!!!

    Last night I finally rotated the motor... The first obvious sign that things weren't good on the front cylinder was, one of the intake valves was visibly open when peering down the intake boot. When I removed the front header pipe a pieced of metal, the size of a quarter came out of the exhaust port. Not Good...

    With the front cylinder taken apart; valve cover, cam assembly, head and cylinder sleeve. The issue, a valve shim from one of the intake valves was sitting in a recess of the head. I must have done something seriously wrong when doing the valve lash adjustment, something like; too large of a valve clearance, valve shim not properly seated, something. The cam follower arm clips were properly installed.

    What parts of the crushed valve that wasn't in the exhaust port was inside the head, not allowing the piston to make clear TDC, that's why I could only make a small rotation of the crank. I suspect the intake valve shim interfered with one of the exhaust valves at 5000+ rpm and POP went my head assembly. The cylinder has damage, the piston is so banged up it has pinched the compression rings, the inside of the head is pretty banged up and there is signs of other bent valves. The engine oil was clean and the oil strainer had mild shavings, I've seen a lot worse come out of a health engine.

    I'm negotiating a price for a 2008 1125r motor with 5000KMS according to the owner. I'll be looking for advice on a 2008 to 2009 motor differences/swap.

    Oh and be careful when handling the piston... YIKES! I cut a big gash into my thumb, just touching the damn thing. Did Eric personally sharpen those things to discourage the Japanese from snooping around his designs? (Yes Rotax designed the motor to buell specs... blah blah blah...)
    Sorry to see this. Ugh! On the lighter side, I did see someone on some social media site was parting out an 1125.

  9. #19
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    It appears the motors are the same between the 2008 1125R and the 2009 1125R and CR. T1120.2AMA.

  10. #20
    Senior Member pdksh's Avatar
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    I have sourced a low mileage motor locally for a fair price. I'm going to pick it up this weekend. My motor has 25,000KMs and I'm buying a crashed bike with 5,000KMs. Ill plug in the ECU and dash, hopefully to confirm the mileage. I plan on swapping the entire motor, I could swap out the front cylinder but for the extra work. I'll probably have to change over my engine side covers, for both the drilled EBR rotor/stator and EBR SS Clutch actuator. Move over the throttle bodies, ejectors and verify the valve lash, I should be good to go. Ill keep you informed.



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