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Thread: Another hard start issue - fuel priming problem?

  1. #11
    Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    @ocgreenmachine. Thanks, that's really helpful to know. How in the world did your ever diagnose those tiny pinholes?

    I've had the sinking suspicion that I would need to replace the fuel pump, so looks like I'm headed in that direction.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endopotential View Post
    @ocgreenmachine. Thanks, that's really helpful to know. How in the world did your ever diagnose those tiny pinholes?

    I've had the sinking suspicion that I would need to replace the fuel pump, so looks like I'm headed in that direction.
    I had believed it was a fuel pump or regulator issue since the pump was abnormally loud and had pulled the pump out to replace/check those components. With Jacob Stark's help (from MotoEnthusiasts), I tested the pump in a bucket of gas, i removed it and watched two streams of gas coming out of the plastic tube. A pressure test verified that the pressure dropped after priming due to the pinholes (both with a gauge and actually watching the fuel squirt out of the tube). Essentially, the pump was working overtime to keep the pressure up while the bike was running. Replacement of the tubing fixed the problem.

  3. #13
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    I did a search and, this came up, as per Lunaticfringe,
    " 2008-2010 it is the servo motor and pintel for IAC system. pintel needing attention/cleaning." Oddly enough, he was addressing this to greenmachine, this was when he found pin holes in fuel line in the tank. In his case, I would think that his fuel pump would have been running excessively to keep up the needed fuel pressure that the bike runs at. Try checking the servo motor and cleaning the IAC lintel then, report back and, go from there.
    Also, you mean to tell me that it never gets lower than 50F and higher than 70F, I ask because my 08 ully and my 07 SS have no problem cold starting at much lower temps here, on the right coast, in the fall winter and early spring, so something as you already know is indeed wrong, though I should, I do not change the oil to a lighter weight for the colder weather.
    Last edited by njloco; 06-14-2019 at 03:16 PM.

  4. #14
    Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    WOOHOO!!! Solved for the most part I think.

    The prize goes to njloco. Thank you sir! I owe you a virtual beer.

    I took out the IAC (idle air control) under the airbox. It wasn't filthy or stuck, but I cleaned it out with some mass air flow sensor fluid I had lying around.

    While I was fiddling around, I also added a 4 gauge earthing wire from my negative battery terminal to that braided cable up front. Though I'm not sure this was the major culprit.

    The bike now starts with 1-2 hits of the starter button, which I can totally live with. The IAC kinda makes sense, with the hard start on a cold engine but not a warm one. Fuel pump didn't seem to be the issue, as the bike otherwise rides fine.

    Best part... cost of repair? Zero!!!

    I'm sure I have fuel pump repair somewhere in the future, but not for now. Time to ride!

  5. #15
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endopotential View Post
    WOOHOO!!! Solved for the most part I think.

    The prize goes to njloco. Thank you sir! I owe you a virtual beer.

    I took out the IAC (idle air control) under the airbox. It wasn't filthy or stuck, but I cleaned it out with some mass air flow sensor fluid I had lying around.

    While I was fiddling around, I also added a 4 gauge earthing wire from my negative battery terminal to that braided cable up front. Though I'm not sure this was the major culprit.

    The bike now starts with 1-2 hits of the starter button, which I can totally live with. The IAC kinda makes sense, with the hard start on a cold engine but not a warm one. Fuel pump didn't seem to be the issue, as the bike otherwise rides fine.

    Best part... cost of repair? Zero!!!

    I'm sure I have fuel pump repair somewhere in the future, but not for now. Time to ride!

    While I was fiddling around, I also added a 4 gauge earthing wire from my negative battery terminal to that braided cable up front. Though I'm not sure this was the major culprit.

    that had NO positive effect whatsoever....and is not the correct location for an auxiliary motor ground.
    and perhaps its inexperience...bad internet info....naivete........but you fine folks on here really need to stop running these auxiliary grounds to the negative battery terminal. terrible idea.

  6. #16
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    While I was fiddling around, I also added a 4 gauge earthing wire from my negative battery terminal to that braided cable up front. Though I'm not sure this was the major culprit.

    that had NO positive effect whatsoever....and is not the correct location for an auxiliary motor ground.
    and perhaps its inexperience...bad internet info....naivete........but you fine folks on here really need to stop running these auxiliary grounds to the negative battery terminal. terrible idea.
    I believe the first rendition of the ground wire mod, that most frequently comes up in a search showed using the negative battery terminal. I was guilty of using that method, but moved it as per John's instructions. Also cleaned the mating surface between the seat rails and the fuel tank when I had them off. It seemed to me that it was the only area that actually grounded the two together other than the "wire mod"

  7. #17
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    Shouldn't the aux ground run from the coil mount to earth?

  8. #18
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuellyBagger View Post
    I believe the first rendition of the ground wire mod, that most frequently comes up in a search showed using the negative battery terminal. I was guilty of using that method, but moved it as per John's instructions. Also cleaned the mating surface between the seat rails and the fuel tank when I had them off. It seemed to me that it was the only area that actually grounded the two together other than the "wire mod"
    precisely cody and well said. an auxiliary ground should go from the rear coil mount allen bolt...neatly routed...to the negative cable frame attachment point. other than something like a "tender" wiring harness....it's simply bad practice to add anything other than the factory cable ends to battery terminals.....for a multitude of reasons.

  9. #19
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    Don't thank me, that was a quote from Lunaticfringe, all I did was dig it up for you. Glad you got it straightened out.

  10. #20
    Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    Turns out I was premature in my celebration. It wasn't the IAC after all. Bike was still hard to start afterwards.

    I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump parts, thanks to John/Lunaticfringe's supply and sage guidance.
    Just as OCgreenmachine posted earlier, it was the flex hose which had a small hole in it. Rebuilt the whole assembly, and now the bike starts up like a champ!

    Guess this makes sense in the end - With that hole, the pump maybe couldn't mount enough pressure on a cold start to supply the injectors? But once the bike is running it was sufficient? Weird that the bike would run just fine once it started.

    IMG_0137.jpg


    Last edited by Endopotential; 07-08-2019 at 11:39 PM.

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