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Thread: 04 XB12R- 64K Electrical Issue

  1. #11
    Ray,

    Thank you for your response! So greatly appreciated. I will follow your guidance on the cluster wiring.

    The VR test I did- I pulled the Voltage Regulator off the bike. Tested continuity with Positive on the feed from stator to each DC output pin which read 39-40- diode setting. Then reversed polarity and repeated with a 0 reading. The positive feed tested properly, when repeated on the negative side, a 0 reading was provided. I though that this test should repeat the 39-40 reading on both positive and negative side of the VR, and when reversing current, it should return a 0 as the diodes are only allowing current one direction. Based on that, I thought the VR was failing. That said, I am getting a voltage reading from 13.4-14.5 with VR hooked up and bike running. I am scratching my head on this.

    The turn signals- I have disconnected the main harness at both ends and am testing (continuity to ground) each pin from the front and rear of the main harness to ground. I would expect this not to show continuity as the harness is disconnected from the lights and switches. UNLESS- there is another circuit I am missing. I would expect a 0 reading as it should be just a wire from front to back that I'm testing. Maybe I am reading my wiring schematic wrong.

    Again- Ray- Thank you! I was busy painting body parts and did not check the posts yesterday. Cheers from Austin!

  2. #12
    Lunaticfringe, I have read SO many of your posts trying to wrap my head around known issues! Thank you! Again, I appreciate your reply and interest. I will definitely jump on the new flasher prior to further electrical diagnosis. The front wiring harness- i did not know about the brown wire, but I did inspect everything VERY carefully. I wrapped it back up and tucked things away Sunday. Took it for a ride and all well with the running systems. It is still too new to me so I am continuing to learn.

    I put a tune from Buelltooth, reset the AFV to 100, and reset TPS which made it run VERY nice. That said, my AFV setting has dropped to 90. I continue to read about how the ECM is responding to cause this. Since it is so new to me yet old, I am planning on replacing the 02 sensor first just to eliminate that as a concern. I have already checked for leaks (carb fluid spray) no leaks detected.

    If you have any thoughts on this one, I would be very interested.

    Ray and Lunatic-

    Again, thank you for engaging with this basket case Buell I am trying to resurrect. Meet my little mess (if the file uploads):

    TJ's_04XB12R.jpg

  3. #13
    Ray,

    Is this the Shindengen Product you were referring to?

    Regulator Rectifier Kit Replaces FH012AA For SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA

    Specification:
    Model: A29609
    Product Name: Voltage Regulator / Rectifier Upgrade Kit
    Color: Black
    Material: Metal
    Productgroup: Automotive Parts and Accessories
    Dimension: Approx 102x89.5x22.5mm
    Manufacturer Part Number: FH020AA

    Features:
    1.This is a universal regulator/rectifier kit and charging system upgrade kit.
    2.The kit can be used to upgrade most 2 wire and 3 wire stator systems.
    3.This voltage regulator is great for replacing existing undersized or obsolete regulators.
    4.The advanced construction will run cooler than all OEM diode style regulators.
    5.In addition, this rectifier has overheat protection, rather than burn up it will simply turn off for a while and cool off.
    6.This regulator can handle up to 50amp peaks & 30amp continuous 3 phase, 30amp single phase.
    7.Maxi fuse protected, unlike circuit breakers which over time can get weak and be prone to nuisance tripping.

    Fitments (Please Compare The Rectifier With Your Original One Before Purchasing!):
    For SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA FH012AAShingengen Regulator:Rectifier.png

  4. #14

    Buell is also making a mess-

    Due to having LOTS to address-

    Why would my clutch be moving gear case fluid up the clutch cable causing it to seep out of the clutch adjustment boot?

    Thanks,
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tukkayak View Post
    Due to having LOTS to address-

    Why would my clutch be moving gear case fluid up the clutch cable causing it to seep out of the clutch adjustment boot?

    Thanks,
    Have you checked the primary fluid level? If the level is proper check to make sure the case isnt getting pressurized. Maybe someone hooked up the crankcase breather hoses to the primary vent.... or maybe the vent is plugged?

    Also, at $25 new, that R/R is likely a copy of the Shindengen unit. I'd pass on it. XB's typically dont have charging issues with the R/R. I'd stick to stock.
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 06-25-2019 at 12:57 AM.

  6. #16
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    I can't recall what internal resistance measurements of the regulator show (I have done those measurements in the past as I have a faulty regulator here that I started to dissect with a mind to repair but it is presently in the 'get around to it' box).
    I will check a good regulator today and get back to you out of technical interest but suffice it to say there is a lot of circuitry inside that regulator/rectifier.
    if you are seeing 13.4-14.5v at the battery with everything connected and engine running then that is pretty much normal in my experience.
    The only thing that you really need to do for long term reliability is ensure that both connectors (AC in and DC out) are clean and tight. I have seen pins on both sides burn up as a result of prolonged loose fitment.
    I have no personal experience with the SHINDENGEN regulators but have seen others post that they have fitted them - someone may chime in on that front.
    Personally I have had a very good run with the standard Buell regulators with due attention to the connectors.

    You haven't mentioned the instrument cluster - I agree with Lunatic about the crack in the cluster needing further investigation (something my old eyes missed reading your first post).
    These are relatively fragile inside so physical damage or moisture ingress can be fatal.

    You say that you have disconnected the main harness front and rear for the blinker test and that you are reading continuity from both Left & Right to ground?
    I have highlighted the LH circuit on this grab from a Lightning schematic to help illustrate things(hopefully).



    The only thing that seems to explain what you are seeing for this measurement is if you still have the instrument cluster plugged in? That would give some sort of resistance reading via the blinker indicator circuit in the cluster but I don't know what that is offhand - I'll check that today.
    You are correct in saying there should be 0 ohms measuring from the front blinker power side to the rear blinker power side on either left or right. If that is not the case then my first step would be to measure from those same points to the LH controls plug to see if any of them have continuity to the actual blinker switch. If not, the joins I have shown with the larger black dots on the LH circuit above are physically a splice in the loom. I don't know where they would be on your model but on my Ulys these splices are right at the headstock and are one of the weak points I have encountered quite a few times with other Ulys. The wires are spot-welded together and covered with glue-filled heat shrink. These are a)in the worst possible place for movement stress (on Ulys anyway) and b)very tough to spot because the glue holds the broken wires in place and they look OK visually.
    In this photo from my old Uly you can see the brown wire splice on the R/H side that is one blinker join and the red splice that is the power wires that split up to go to the ignition switch and the back-up power for the instruments (electrical tape from a running repair at the time).
    Please excuse the huge photo size - I did that to clearly show the glue that has oozed out of the heat-shrink.



    Sorry, I can't help with the tuning side as I have kept both mine bog stock - several others here are very experienced in that regard.
    Ray
    Last edited by Rays; 06-25-2019 at 02:02 AM.

  7. #17
    [QUOTE=34nineteen;613689]Have you checked the primary fluid level? If the level is proper check to make sure the case isnt getting pressurized. Maybe someone hooked up the crankcase breather hoses to the primary vent.... or maybe the vent is plugged?

    You nailed it. I believe the vent tube has been cut and plugged. I did not know what I was looking at, but the hose that comes off of the top of the gear case behind the rear cylinder has been cut and is plugged. I will have to figure out what the fix will be. I wonder why that was done. HMMMM?????. Good call34nineteen!

  8. #18
    Ray,

    Thank you for the detailed response. You bring up a GREAT point regarding wether I had unplugged the cluster while testing the R/L Light Circuits. I honestly can not remember. Tomorrow night I will open it all back up and go through it again. The schematic you posted is VERY similar if not exact to the one that is in the XB12R manual I have. I had highlighted the same path although yours is much more high tech!

    The wire loom that I had exposed is in the same place as your pic, but enters more horizontally and turns NORTH towards the Instrument Cluster rather sharply (in my mind that would make it more suspect due to the pivoting stress it has to endure). I found the connectors that you demonstrated with your pic, and mine look to be in good shape, but- as you are suggesting they may be broken inside the shrink-wrap I can take them apart and check. I will make sure to retest continuity prior to making that call (cluster unplugged).

    My tests were being taken both from harness plug rear to Harness plug front and found continuity to ground (again, i have to verify again regarding the cluster). I agree that the cluster may be toast as it is pretty open to elements. I will pull it apart and see what is there after I get the cluster pin voltages checked. I was quoted $300 for a new cluster recently. Not sure I am up for that.

    Are you aware of more economical options regarding cluster replacement or after market products?

    I'm excited to see exact voltages at the cluster in your previous post. No worries with the tune stuff. You are correct- there are some amazing people on this forum with vast amounts of knowledge being passed around.

    Sunday evening and tonight, I worked on getting closer to the final product on the plastics. I am a rookie, but I think they turned out ok so far.
    I am working on a design to finish them off. Still have not landed on the final look. XB Pass S.Cover.pngXB Airbox Cover 2.pngXB Airbox Cover.png

    Thanks again, will update soon.

  9. #19
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    I like it ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ !

  10. #20
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    I checked the rectifier/regulator internal readings using diode mode as you have done and I get a very similar reading between each AC input and the +ve DC output - 0.455v one way and open in the reverse direction. I get nothing measuring to the DC -ve.
    This was on a brand new Buell regulator that was taken out of the box to test.
    The manual doesn't have any specs on internal rectifier/regulator measurements so given you appear to have DC output charging the battery and it is regulating below 15Volts DC then I would limit any further action in this area to checking the physical connectors.
    I also tested the two indicator inputs on the instrument cluster to ground (in the cluster) and measured 8.6Mohms on resistance and 0.684v on the diode range.

    What is the actual symptom you are chasing with the indicators?
    The flasher relay (already flagged by Lunatic) is something I have seen fail a few times, the flasher relay ground is a common failure on Ulys - it is one of the four ground wires attached to the steering head. These tend to break internally and the external plastic sheath remains intact - if you meaure open circuit on the ground wire a light tug on any suspect wire will soon show up as a 'stretchy' wire.
    I am assuming you do have +12v power to that flasher relay (accessory fuse)?
    The other failure I have seen several times with indicators on XB's is a dirty/corroded contact in the ignition switch. There are two sets of contact in the ignition switch - one set covers the items that are powered in both the 'Park' position and the 'Ignition On' position and the the other set just the 'Ignition On'.
    The blinkers also work in Park so this contact can be dodgy and the bike will run just fine.
    However, those are all shots in the dark without specifics on the original 'drain the swamp' problem.
    Ray



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