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Thread: Heat soak shut down.

  1. #11
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    Well o don't know what happened to yesterdays posts but I guess I'll go over again... Got two relays and when about some testing started bike and let idle for 20 min (fan came on) no failure but temp on relays where top 2 135 bottom 103... Killed it for about 45 trying to duplicate the last failure started and rode around the (I have a circle) drive way for 15 min not an issue... Today put the relays in my pocket jumped on the bike as soon as I lifted it up to pull the kick stand bike dies start switch off and on no crank WTF cycled key gauges sweep pump primes bike starts 🤤 ...so I when out riding I live in the country so I just did laps around my block (4 miles) so not to get too far away in case a tow was in the cards. I was mean to him hard pulls to limit seems to be riding just fine... About lap 2 I pull out on to highway hammer it grab second front tire comes off the ground for about 50 feet (not pertinent information for troubleshooting but why I love this bike🥰&#129323 however bike cuts out between 5-6 k and is somewhat consistent over the next 6 pulls always cutting out between 5-6k so I take it easy spying the side of the road for the glove I lost when I trailered him back last week get close to home and make some hard pulls no cut out no sputter so now I'm more confused than before 😔. Guess I'll be carrying these relays around for a while.... Any thoughts???

  2. #12
    Member TapRoot's Avatar
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    Ok, 107.3 from what i understand is tolerable but may be high for your bike, 100 is the target number but there is flexibility. My bike runs beautiful at 110% but I bump it to 112% for a smoother steady throttle. Have you pulled the pump yet? Still sounds like a failing pump to me. Mine did the same thing for close to 700 miles before I replaced it but it will eventually fail. Just recently as i said before my second pump stared cutting out and popping same as you only this time I replaced it immediately. Problem fixed. The last thing members want you to do is just throw money at the bike but it's a well known part to fail and if original probably a good time to replace considering the age, also Lunaticfringe sells them I believe at a cheaper price than ebay or other vendors for board members( Found out after I bought mine ). If you do rebuild the fuel pump be sure to order a filter, O-rings for pump body ( Lunatic has those too ) and If i were you make sure the plastic flex hose within the pump is not punctured. Other than that, it's really not too bad of a job.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    Any thoughts???

    yes......i do.


    you're beating the living sh*t out of a 14 year old buell that was never built for or intended to suffer such abuse. how do i know? in 1 single long-winded paragraph you mentioned letting it "idle" for over 20 minutes which is inexcusable...."i was mean to him" which screams abusive riding......wheelies for 50 ft.....repeated WOT pulls to near red-line....and "hammering" this bike.
    this is the beginning of your endless problems.
    good luck.
    Lol a race bike that wasn't intended to be raced... Did you miss where I'm trying to test a failure? It's not like it's treated this way every time I ride so unbunch your panties.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TapRoot View Post
    Ok, 107.3 from what i understand is tolerable but may be high for your bike, 100 is the target number but there is flexibility. My bike runs beautiful at 110% but I bump it to 112% for a smoother steady throttle. Have you pulled the pump yet? Still sounds like a failing pump to me. Mine did the same thing for close to 700 miles before I replaced it but it will eventually fail. Just recently as i said before my second pump stared cutting out and popping same as you only this time I replaced it immediately. Problem fixed. The last thing members want you to do is just throw money at the bike but it's a well known part to fail and if original probably a good time to replace considering the age, also Lunaticfringe sells them I believe at a cheaper price than ebay or other vendors for board members( Found out after I bought mine ). If you do rebuild the fuel pump be sure to order a filter, O-rings for pump body ( Lunatic has those too ) and If i were you make sure the plastic flex hose within the pump is not punctured. Other than that, it's really not too bad of a job.
    Yes I have a new pump filter and regulator in it now oem pump failed about 3 years ago when I rode on hot days I replaced it with a kenpo(I think) which is a cheaper replacement so to rule a fuel pump issue I did the new stuff 40miles ago it's a quantum pump and regulator.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    a race bike that wasn't intended to be raced
    so the Buell XB line were race-bikes? interesting. never knew that.


    Did you miss where I'm trying to test a failure?
    no


    nd when about some testing started bike and let idle for 20 min
    XB's....Tubes...XL's.....and XR's really enjoy this. weeds out the the weaklings from the main herd.
    Haha it is a problem that shows up with heat how else do you heat it up and the reason they engineered them with a fan and skip spark is to keep them from burning down and the fan hadn't even come on in that time.... And yes a sport bike with a factory produced race ECM was built to race don't be a d.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Lusiphur's Avatar
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    I'm gonna nitpick.
    The XB was specifically built for the street. It was not built to race. There are numerous interviews with Erik about just this, as well as all of the advertising.
    He always referred to the CityX as a Streetfighter.

    They just happen to also be a really fun track bike that had the option of a full tuning kit which they labelled a race kit.
    I am not 100% on the following statement, but I am pretty sure that was due to legal reasons. Call it a race kit, state it's not for street use, and you are removed from emission liability.
    Jack-O-Lantern
    2006 Buell XBRS LightningBolt
    http://www.buellxb.com/forum/album.php?albumid=129

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lusiphur View Post
    I'm gonna nitpick.
    I am not 100% on the following statement, but I am pretty sure that was due to legal reasons. Call it a race kit, state it's not for street use, and you are removed from emission liability.
    emissions and insurance. Tell the EPA and the insurance company that you are riding a race bike with special racing parts.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Lusiphur's Avatar
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    Yup

    Buelltooth.com has a nice blurb about this

    Quote Originally Posted by BUELLtooth
    Stock VS "Race" ECM

    The term "Race ECM" is often misused. Many people associate this term with performance/aftermarket ECMs marked with "race use only" and the common misperception is that they are a different piece of hardware than stock units, which they are not. The only difference is the engraving which is due to the fact that a non-emissions compliant tuning is installed.
    Jack-O-Lantern
    2006 Buell XBRS LightningBolt
    http://www.buellxb.com/forum/album.php?albumid=129

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lusiphur View Post
    Yup

    Buelltooth.com has a nice blurb about this
    I'm aware that the changes to the actual track bike are many but it is the same bike in many respects. Don't want to argue just don't get on me for trying to get whatever is wrong to fail in a controlled way vs stranding me on the side of the road on my way to work on a 100 day. And I appreciate your knowledge so please don't misunderstand my responses as anything otherwise.



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