Did you try cleaning the Injectors, since it sat around for awhile. Take the air cover off and visually check TPS, also check for dirt.
Here you go,
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...g+intake+seals
Hi all. My Ulysses does not want to idle and sounds like its running on one cylinder. Im getting signal to coil, getting spark, there is fuell pressure, injectors are both giving fuell. When I crank it i can rev it but does not want to idle and it sounds way different, almost like an offroad. Different than the normal deep sound. Sometimes when it starts up and i rev it to keep it going there is popping at the throttle body. Ive done a tps reset which i cannot get lower than 1.2 degrees. No errors showing up on ecmspy apart from the air temp sensor from the air box being unplugged. Almost forgot to mention, ive been struggling with it for 2 years, started intermittantly to stall while driving and not getting it staryed again, then for weeks and decided to get new sparkplug wires, spark plugs. But didnt solve my problem Stood for just over a year and decided to try and take it on again. Ive added new fuel and oil..any ideas?
Did you try cleaning the Injectors, since it sat around for awhile. Take the air cover off and visually check TPS, also check for dirt.
Here you go,
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...g+intake+seals
Last edited by njloco; 07-19-2019 at 10:42 PM.
getting spark, there is fuell pressure, injectors are both giving fuell
how have you confirmed this?
When I crank it i can rev it but does not want to idle and it sounds way different, almost like an offroad.
typically a spark plug backing itself out of the cylinder head....or loose exhaust header clamps or cracked header near the exhaust port.
ve done a tps reset which i cannot get lower than 1.2 degrees.
no tps reset can be successful unless the initial TB plate setting is confirmed to be 0.
Almost forgot to mention, ive been struggling with it for 2 years, started intermittantly to stall while driving and not getting it staryed again,
there is popping at the throttle body.
that right there along with high AFV value that, when reset, quickly rises well over 100 again all signs of classic failing fuel pump. remove and rebuild with full kit and correct OEM parts or replace with new.
Last edited by user_deleted; 07-19-2019 at 11:15 PM.
Thanx njloco ill check that link out later today.
Lunaticfringe I have removed the injectors along with the rail and when the fuel pump primes both injectors are shooting out fuel in the air when i turn it upside down with the little space ive got.
Sparks when i remove it and hold it agains the engin. How can i check if there is any pressure being lost through the sparkplugs? I will check out the throttle body later today try to clean without letting any dirt going into the intake perhaps the tps will zero out and close better . Will keep you updated.
Sorry i meant when i crank it the injectors seems to be working
Spray a little fuel in the TB see if it runs on both and better , You need to see if pump delivering 50 lbs of pressure. How many miles ?
Ok got home and checked the timing, fuel pump priming when it hits TDC exactly in the middle of the inspection hole. Fuell pressure is plenty, i didnt use a guage but it squirts out even if i try to keep the pipe closed as hard as i can with my thumb. There is one thing that i noticed. I removed the plugs and double checked the gaps on 0.9mm while i was at it i checked for spark again, confirmed. But....the front cylinder spark plug i could smell the fuel the rear sparkplug could not smell fuel and a carbon deposit, very dry.....also after cleaning the plugs and putting them backnd then cranking it and revving it the front cylinder is much colder and rear cylinder very very hot afterwards.
When i removed the front sparkplug to test for spark it wanted to idle at first turn when cranked even with pkug outside obviously not right but had to switch it off. Then when i tested rear plug for spark, i got spark again but didnt even try to start.....what on earth? Sounds like it could be something more serious....any ideas?
Oh and i also cleaned the throttle body...was able at last to get the tps to zero out....and took it back to around 5.5 after resetting just to put it out the way.
it goes like this: if your motor has fuel...compression....timing...and spark....it has no choice. it has to run and run on both cylinders. the introduction of "air" results in compression.
if your motor was at room temp...and you ran it for a short period.....and it didn't "sound right"....and the rear cylinder header was hot to the touch and the front cylinder header was cold....clearly your front cylinder is NOT firing. why? absence of fuel or spark, or both. if the plug was wet and smelled of raw fuel then it is missing "spark". that can only be a faulty ECM ground...a faulty ECM....faulty coil....faulty plug wire....fouled/faulty spark plug. odds in favor of wire and/or plug as your OEM coil is a dual-fire and extremely rare for 1 post to not fire. use this info to trouble-shoot.