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Thread: 2009 XB9 Electrical Issue

  1. #1
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    2009 XB9 Electrical Issue

    Moto sitting for 3 months. Put on battery tender. Tender showed "Not Charging" blinking red. Disconnected battery tender. Removed seat. Connected 12v battery charger to battery terminals (battery in place in the motorcycle with leads attached). Heard a strange click, immediately unplugged 12v battery charger. Disconnected leads and removed battery from motorcycle. Charged battery with 12v battery charger (holds charge, seemingly the battery is good). Put battery in motorcycle, connected positive (+) lead, touched negative (-) lead to battery terminal to connect it and fuel pump immediately started, (began to whir), ran continuously until I removed negative (-) lead. No key in ignition, ignition in off position. Tried one more time to connect negative (-) lead, fuel pump came on again and ran continuously, I used key to attempt to start, what I think was the starter making a 'clacking' noise happened (normal sound for when the moto does start), motorcycle would not turn-over. Turned ignition off, removed key, disconnected negative (-) lead. Disconnected positive (+) lead. Removed battery from motorcycle. There she sits...

    Any ideas regarding what I might have done and or how to fix it to get moto running? (it has gas, has been in a garage, started fine with no issues 3 months ago)

    I am guessing I did something when I connected the 12v battery charger while the battery was still in the motorcycle with leads attached...

    Thanks for any help you can offer. Dave D

  2. #2
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    BIG ASSUMPTION on my part but for the sake of diagnostics LET'S ASSUME you never ever crossed any terminals....meaning the battery cables are now and have always been connected to the correct terminal ends....as has been any charger you may have used. what you now have is either a completely shorted battery....a fried ECM....a dead short somewhere....or a huge parasitic draw from a shorted/failed component. where? simple tests as follows:
    1-the battery needs to be tested properly. i'll tell you right up front that if it's some POS chinese thing...plan on replacing it.
    i've seen these turds show a full charge...fool a tender...and still have either a dead cell or internal short. give it approx. 6 amps for 1/2 hour then immediately have it properly load tested.
    2-your fuel pump is receiving a false ground. you need to isolate how this is happening.
    3-do a full "parasitic loss" test. REMOVE EVERY SINGLE FUSE FROM FUSEBOX AND LEAVE RELAYS IN PLACE.
    get a quality multi-meter and disconect the NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE from battery ONLY. set meter to DC AMPS. place one pin of meter to negative cable end and other pin to negative battery terminal. does NOT matter which is connected to which.
    you should see virtually 0 amps draw. now with key and kill switch both OFF start to replace each fuse one-by-one with the FUEL PUMP FUSE AND THE BATTERY FUSE being the last two.
    4-if your meter shows good results meaning virtually 0 amperage draw then lastly replace the battery fuse before the pump fuse. ok? continue on. high draw? faulty voltage regulator. now replace the pump fuse. high draw and pump kicks on? you've found the source of the problem. can either be a pump assembly with a shorted internal wire to housing....shorted pump wiring harness...faulty ECM.

    if the above confuses you get help from local electrical guru. if you feel confident then watch this guy. same procedure i've outlined above.
    NOTE: some may chime in with "just remove pump fuse and test" or "just unplug pump from harness and test". well intended advice but this does NOT isolate and rule either a false ground or another short somewhere in system causing your problem. make sense????

    LASTLY....when key is ON it allows the kill switch, when turned to ON...to activate the ignition relay. extremely rare but years ago ran into an instance where a "sticking/faulty" relay caused the pump to randomly activate regardless of ignition switch/kill switch position. if in doubt replace the relay.

    you're welcome.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XH2wdHBZ6eE
    Last edited by lunaticfringe; 07-25-2019 at 10:06 AM.

  3. #3
    As always, great step by step instructions LF!

  4. #4
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    Thank you LF. I understand and will give it a go and report back.
    Dave D

  5. #5
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    LF, as instructed. Report:
    Good new battery installed, showing 13.1 prior to install, installed, only positive (+) lead connected.
    Per your number 4:
    1) Replaced Battery Fuse: High draw at 12.3+ .
    2) Replaced Fuel Pump Fuse (last fuse in - all fuses in): High draw at 13.1+. Fuel pump did not kick on.

    Cycled on/off key ignition a few times with negative (-) lead still not connected to battery.
    Touched negative (-) lead to negative (-) battery terminal, fuel pump came on.
    Attempted to start a few times, negative lead touching by hand, not bolted on, seemed to attempt to turn-over, not just clacking sound as previous attempt, but, no joy.
    Disconnected all, removed battery, still showing 12.8.

    Thoughts LF - any are appreciated.
    Thank you - Dave D

  6. #6
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave D View Post
    LF, as instructed. Report:
    Good new battery installed, showing 13.1 prior to install, installed, only positive (+) lead connected.
    Per your number 4:
    1) Replaced Battery Fuse: High draw at 12.3+ .
    2) Replaced Fuel Pump Fuse (last fuse in - all fuses in): High draw at 13.1+. Fuel pump did not kick on.

    Cycled on/off key ignition a few times with negative (-) lead still not connected to battery.
    Touched negative (-) lead to negative (-) battery terminal, fuel pump came on.
    Attempted to start a few times, negative lead touching by hand, not bolted on, seemed to attempt to turn-over, not just clacking sound as previous attempt, but, no joy.
    Disconnected all, removed battery, still showing 12.8.

    Thoughts LF - any are appreciated.
    Thank you - Dave D
    dave: see questions and comments below.

    let me repeat: have you EVER crossed the battery-to-cable terminals OR crossed battery charger leads when installing same???

    1) Replaced Battery Fuse: High draw at 12.3+ .

    VOLTS OR AMPS? if VOLTS you didn't comprehend my instructions and incorrectly tested.

    Replaced Fuel Pump Fuse (last fuse in - all fuses in): High draw at 13.1+. Fuel pump did not kick on.

    again....VOLTS OR AMPS?

    i am NOT being overly critical here dave but this has the appearance that you might be confused by my simple-to-follow instructions. why? because your "replaced fuel pump fuse" comment is an impossible reading to obtain if performed as per my instructions.

  7. #7
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    LF:
    No problem.
    I have never crossed cables or charger leads.
    I tested volts - will test amps - I am unfamiliar with the use of the multimeter - I think I have now figured it out. Sorry for the confusion.
    Will do the parasitic loss test again and report back.
    Thanks for your patience.
    Dave D

  8. #8
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    LF:

    IF I did things right (big ‘if’ given past performance) this is what I found:

    Good new battery installed, showing 12.78V. prior to install, installed, only positive (+) lead connected.

    Per your previous number 4:*
    1) Replaced Battery Fuse: Draw at 1.4 to 1.5 amps with the multi-meter set on the “20m” setting in DC “A” portion of the multi-meter dial.
    2) Replaced Fuel Pump Fuse (last fuse in - all fuses in): No draw, showing 0.00 amps. Fuel Pump*did not kick on.

    Seems then “faulty voltage regulator.” Correct?

    (I am thinking that what may have caused the initial problem, was when I initially (before my first post) connected the battery charger to the dead battery (an older charger, 12V. 4amp) with the dead battery still fully connected in the motorcycle, and hear that ‘click’ sound, that I fried something - seems that I possibly fried the voltage regulator.

    The Issue started after this…does this make any sense? It seems strange that the voltage regulator would just go bad after sitting for 3 months without some action on my part that caused it.

    Thank you again - Dave D

  9. #9
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    dave: think of it in these general terms. when testing for a parasitic draw with the bike off and at rest....pretty much anything that draws more than 200 milliamps(1/5th of an amp) will kill a fully charged known good battery in a few days. that's the general rule of thumb.
    1-the battery fuse is the direct link between the positive side of the battery circuit....the charging system...and the rest of the bikes' electrical system. if you've tested correctly and show a DC AMP reading of approx. 1.5 DC AMPS with the battery fuse installed you have either a dead short somewhere...a failed ecm....a failed relay....or a failed voltage regulator(VR). the simple VR test is to leave the multi-meter connected and unplug your VR. it has 2 plugs and they are located behind your factory OEM left front air scoop. unplug and check the results.
    2-so now the pump is NOT running with key off...kill switch off...battery fully connected???? that suspiciously sounds like either a short in the kill switch wiring at the steering neck....or a faulty ignition relay, which is the unit in your fuse box that powers the kill switch circuitry including the fuel pump.
    if the bike were in my shop i'd simply perform #1 and replace the ignition relay and see what you have. i have posted up many times the readily available cross-overs for these 20 amp relays...available at any auto parts store on the cheap.

    and yes to your comment about initial charging with a companion "click". tell-tale sign of something askew.
    Last edited by lunaticfringe; 07-29-2019 at 10:24 PM.

  10. #10
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    LF:
    Clearly I am a novice when it comes to motorcycle electronics/electronics in general. Thank you for your patience and know-how and continuing to respond to my posts.

    To clarify:
    The fuel pump DID NOT come on during the parasitic test when the negative battery cable was disconnected and only the multimeter leads were touching both negative cable end and negative battery terminal, (when the multimeter was reading “0.00” when on the “20m” setting on its dial after I put in the pump fuse.)

    The fuel pump DID come on after the test, with all fuses in, when I touched the negative cable to the negative battery terminal.

    (I have not yet bolted the negative battery cable to the negative battery terminal as I am gun-shy about burning out the fuel pump as it immediately kicks on and runs continuously when the negative cable touches the negative terminal.)

    Per your last post:
    I will do #1 - the VR test and report back.
    I will replace the ignition relay as well and report.

    Thanks again - Dave D



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