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Thread: Belt rub = low tone squeaky sound? Primary Drive belt rubbing

  1. #11
    Senior Member rchuff's Avatar
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    You really should download a manual. Worth its weight in gold!!!! Or you can go on Ebay and find used ones

  2. #12
    Member 1776Brigade's Avatar
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    Got it. Section 2.6 of manual.

  3. #13
    Senior Member rb70383's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Caution:
    The rear axle on an XB only gets torqued to 25 ft-lbs, back off 2 turns and re-torque to 50 ft-lbs. Front is 20... then 40.

    Over-torquing the rear axle even only one time can squish the aluminum bearing spacer out of speck and side-load every set of bearings you put in after that greatly shortening their lifespan.
    ^^^^!!

    3 sets of front wheels bearings within a couple months. Had the original set go out and chew up the spacer. Didn't catch it at first. New spacer, bearings last much longer...go fig

  4. #14
    Member 1776Brigade's Avatar
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    Just to confirm before I buy the bearings. This is a two bearing wheel. Correct?
    Thanks in advance. IMG_0260.jpg
    IMG_0261.jpg

  5. #15
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Look inside, you should be able to see.

    One big spacer in the middle and bearings on the ends.

  6. #16
    Member 1776Brigade's Avatar
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    Fellas, can't thank you enough for slow walking me through this.

    So, another issue - I assume is common - the bolts holding on the rear fender and front fender have some sort of loctite on them. I half stripped one, and just about to strip another. They are super crazy tight.

    Clearly, I can't use a blow torch unless I want to replace my fenders. Any other suggestions? I resolved to use the Buell tool since the bit I was using was destroyed on a previous bolt (clearly a cheap bit, but better the bit than the bolt).

  7. #17
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    T27 is the correct torx size for all the body bolts. You can put considerable pressure on them without stripping when using a quality bit.

    A T25 is easier to find... but it's the wrong size, will feel loose, and strip the head. Then you will have turned a one beer job into a 3 beer pain-in-the-a$$.

    I 1000% agree with Lunatic on buying one nice set of 3/8" drive Torx sockets, and a set of the 1/4" torx bits that fit in a screwdriver handle or 1/4" small hex ratchet. Even Craftsman sells JUNK, unless you buy the "Professional series" that they don't carry in stores. Hello Sears?? where are you??

    I have had great experience with the Milwaukee brand you can find in The Home Depot and they are surprisingly affordable.

  8. #18
    Member 1776Brigade's Avatar
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    Update:
    after a stupid merry-go-round of choosing race stands to get the bike up, I finally removed tires, and Performance Cycle of Colorado put Michelin Road 5 and new bearings on all around.

    Installed according to manual and two Buell owners Youtube videos.

    One question. The belt has a paper-width space between the inner stone guard and the belt. Is this normal? You can see from the pics that the belt is seated on the rear tire properly. I've just put about two miles on the new tires.
    buell michilen road 5 rear.jpg
    buell michilen road 5 front.jpg



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