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Thread: Best exhaust stud drill plate tool? Jims vs. CFU?

  1. #11
    Member Endopotential's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Keeper of Nic's awesome creation
    Nope, I got lucky and was able to very carefully drill it freehand. I did the initial center punch, then series of increasing drill bits.
    You should be good with the Jim's kit.

    If you've never used a tap before, maybe better to practice on spare pieces of metal. Even get a bar of aluminum, put a steel bolt in it, cut that bolt flush, and practice getting that out.
    You only get one shot at your cylinder head. If you mess it up, then either you upstage the repair with a Helicoil, or you have to remove the engine and bring it to machine shop.

    This project got me sweating as well. The stakes are high...

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Since you have to go through the effort of rotating the motor already, youre only a few more steps from pulling the head. It may be prudent to save the money on the tool and have a machine shop do the work.... especially if you are not comfortable.

    or in this case... a broken drill bit.

  3. #13
    Senior Member konarider94's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Quote Originally Posted by AC_Schnitzel View Post
    I'm in the South Bay -- Campbell.

    Did you not do this with a drill jig, IE Jims tool? Those come w/ a supplied Drill bit.

    anxiety skyrocketing haha

    Kona, thanks for your tips. I have a few 5/16-18 taps (taper, bottoming, and plug).

    Once I've drilled out using the 1/4 bit supplied w/ Jims jig, I run a taper tap? Will I need to back off after a few turns to break off any chips, or anything?

    When you say grab w/ a pair of needlenose -- am I literally just pulling out, or do I need to "unthread" it by twisting?

    edit: sorry for the questions. I've never had to extract a broken bolt, or use a tap
    Always back off taps after a few turns when doing it by hand. Until you get the feel for it just go slow and clean it out frequently. With the threads of the bolt left behind in the hole the tap will probably start to bind as it tries to push the threads out. This is where you want to take out the tap and try to remove the bolt threads with a pick or pliers. It could be a repeat process. Just be patient.

    And it kind of depends how well centered you stay when drilling. I was able to pull out the threads of the bolt that were left behind and it uncoiled from the hole like pulling wire off a spool. It shocked me how well it did. If you are a bit off center you might get a crescent moon shaped piece that comes out, hopefully not too far off. Make sure you get the old gasket out of the exhaust port to help the jig seat on the head squarely.

    34nineteens advice is not terrible. You can mess up your day a lot more if you break the drill bit off in it. Its not rocket science working with metal though. It does take some feel and this is a tricky thing to learn on because of all the variables.

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