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Thread: New guy with 07 Ulysses

  1. #1
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    New guy with 07 Ulysses

    Brought a 2007 XB12x with a tad over 12k miles home over the weekend. I’ve always wanted one, just never found the right deal. After owning several German ADV bikes over the last few years, I finally jumped ship and bought a sports tourer with 175hp and ever since have been missing our local forest service roads. So I started the search for an affordable Uly. Found this one and after a test ride and a look over, I rode her home on Sunday.

    Huge shout out to Lunaticfringe! He’s been quite helpful answering a lot of my newbie questions and offering advice, much appreciated.

    So far, over the past few days, I’ve found a super cheap Android tablet and got the Buelltooth and ecmdroid up and going. Replaced my rear wheel bearings with a set of FAGs off the shelf here in my tiny little town for $25. I did grab the HF blind puller set, and that and some heat made for fairly simple replacement. I’ve adjusted the clutch and primary chain. Waiting on a set of TKC80s that should be here today.

    I had planned on doing plugs as well, but the AFV according to the Buelltooth, is currently at 100.2. Seems like no tune up really needed??

    Lots of corrosion behind the rear bearings and the axle was white with it as well. Bearings were still very much serviceable and smooth, but after seeing all the rust behind them, I’m glad I went ahead with it. If I’d waited a few years, I may not have gotten them out.

    There are signs of ecm connector cracks, and it does appear to have the added “nub” to help keep seat off. Runs good now, but I’ll monitor the performance in rainy or damp conditions and may wind up having to get a replacement.

    It is missing the top Derby cover screw and after buying a replacement and already loosing it, I see that the hole is missing half its threads. Thinking about a helicoil kit from Autotune? Any reason not too?

    Anyhow, glad to have found this forum and look forward to contributing when I can. Any pointers y’all can offer are welcome and appreciated!
    25E1B525-07D0-46EA-8E39-9F40442CA7F1.jpgDEE0251F-5867-4C01-A238-8AFB31EE4667.jpgB5061ACE-1380-44E9-B51D-42F21E09F899.jpgA05F3D7B-A3CF-4D43-BF4C-F759687CBE76.jpg90B4C57C-B6FA-4003-80D4-AED7AD905EBF.jpg25E1B525-07D0-46EA-8E39-9F40442CA7F1.jpgDEE0251F-5867-4C01-A238-8AFB31EE4667.jpgB5061ACE-1380-44E9-B51D-42F21E09F899.jpgA05F3D7B-A3CF-4D43-BF4C-F759687CBE76.jpg90B4C57C-B6FA-4003-80D4-AED7AD905EBF.jpg
    Last edited by Brando4905; 09-04-2019 at 01:41 PM.

  2. #2
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    Looks like pics were inserted twice, sorry for wasting space.

    Forgot to ask, I did see in the service manual when looking for torque specs on sprocket and rear rotor they recommend discarding the used fasteners. I have cleaned the bolts up and removed all old and dry thread locker, as well as chased the holes in the wheel to clean it all out of there. I plan on reusing the fasteners unless you guys have heard of any failures when doing so? New thread sealer of course. Bolts look great and not torqued to ungodly specs, so it seems ok to reuse??

  3. #3
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    brandon: there are NO fasteners on a buell that i have never re-used.....and have never had a failure of any type. use blue loctite on the rotor/pulley/tensioner stud threads. NO loctite on axle threads or axle pinch bolt. light coating of grease on OD of axle shaft itself....a few dabs of anti-seize on the axle threads. the factory used a pink colored anaerobic adhesive on most all threads supplied by Permatex to their specs. it's very close to blue in characteristics.

  4. #4
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    Thanks! Was hoping I wouldn’t be the only one reusing the hardware. Copy that on thread locker.

    Didn’t want the next pics to be bike on it’s side on the trail and me in the ER.

    Helicoil in upper most Derby cover screw hole. Piece of cake.

    Edit: Sorry for the pics. I hate it when they go sideways.

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  5. #5
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Good for you Brando, nice ride and looks like you got her well sorted Time to ride!

    I have a set of TKC-80's for my STT and they work ok for fire roading a heavy bike, but man they are terrible on the street I'm looking into Anakee's maybe next.

    If it runs well and AFV is 90-110 you're GTG. Since you have the ability with ECMDroid, save your tune in case you need to replace that ECM body someday. If you get the common hesitation at 3-4000RPM, look for a Buell "race" tune (even for a stock muffler) it is a great increase in throttle response and power. Tim at IDSpd.com can get that program and even a replacement ECM to you.

    Last edited by Cooter; 09-04-2019 at 05:00 PM.

  6. #6
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    Nice ride, Cooter! Yeah, I’m familiar with the TKC’s on the street, this build is really just for off road. Well......you know, I might like it better than my Super Duke GT for street, but I’m not going to hold my breath.

    I did run into a rather large snag today, should have known, it’s very unusual for things to go so smooth for me. I got the rear all buttoned up, new tire and bearings. Then on to the front is where the OMG comes in. The front bearings were seized, inner race just eating the front axle. Hot spot on both ends. Unbelievable that the PO rode it from Columbia, SC to meet me in Landrum, SC, then I rode her home to Marion, NC and didn’t take the short way home either. I thought it turned in kinda weird. I’m not a religious person, but I’m counting my lucky stars on this one. Could have been a situation, for sure.

    I think this is where the old bike, low mileage scenario rears it’s ugly head? Sitting too long in one spot? Front axle torqued too tight? I’m not really sure, but I did remove the grease seal on one and they looked new! Just the turning part wasn’t working.

    So a new front axle will be here Friday from St Paul and I’ll pick up a set of 6006 bearings in the morning. Bummer, cause I was really ready to take her out. I reckon she’ll sit on the jack for a few days.

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    Last edited by Brando4905; 09-04-2019 at 09:21 PM.

  7. #7
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    The pictures usually start off upright then depending on how the job goes and how long it takes, the amount of beer consumed makes the pics go sideways.
    The Shinko's 804 and 805's are way ahead of the TKC 80's on and off road but they don't make them in a Ully size ! Too bad, I really wanted them on my Ully.
    Shinko's 705's come in, front-120/70r17, rear- 170/60r17 would these sizes work on our rims ?

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Ouch, thats a hot axle! Make sure the aluminum bearing spacer (a rare few are steel) didn't get squished by some ham handed person. 20ft lbs, back off and 40 ft/lbs for the front, 25 then 50 for the rear). Over-torquing it just once can squish the spacer and then side load the ball bearings. That will make them catastrophically die soon. WHY they aren't tapered roller bearings I'll never know.

    Someday when my free time is greater than my project list, I want to look up bearing specs to get tapered roller bearings to fit in the wheels (won't even need a spacer).
    IIRC the front wheel bearings are 6005-2rs, not 6006-2rs (that's the rear size).


    NJ, I'm an old off-roader so TKC-80's are the motorcycle version of Swamper Boggers. They aren't the best at anything, but dayymmm look at 'dem bad boys!!

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    My truck, can do that, in my dreams !

  10. #10
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    NJ, I’m not afraid of Shinkos, some are for some reason, I guess they think cause they’re cheap they suck? I’ve ran 705s on heavier bikes than the Uly and never a problem. Hard to beat at that price!

    Cooter, yeah that axle is too small in spots now. New freshy from St Paul will arrive tomorrow, only $36. I ordered another spacer as well, but I just swapped out those frozen front bearings a few minutes ago and reused the old spacer, it was still mint. I sourced my bearings from a local shop that had them in stock right here in my tiny town. FAG’s for $25 for both rears and $20 for the fronts! Made in Korea and seem decent enough for this application. I agree, tapered would last forever. I have an old ‘73 BMW R75/5 with those type bearings.



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