Does the clutch switch work? Test it for continuity.
Hi all, first time using the forum and I'm looking for a little help.
I have a 2010 XB12Scg with 26000 miles on it in stock configuration other than a K&N replacement filter. and a Buelltooth Baro kit. I recently installed the Baro kit and disabled closed loop where I have locked the AFV to no less than 100 more than 105 as per the Buelltooth unless the Baro sensor says otherwise. This is all setup as per the Buelltooth web site on installing the Baro kit and disabling closed loop and from what I am led to believe is pretty common practice for a Buell. After making these changes the bike runs perfectly with none of the decel pop, overheating or low speed drive-ability issues that it had prior to me doing the mods. The bike now runs clean with a even idle and pulls smooth and strong all the way to the red line. Downshift throttle blips are crisp and the bike is much easier to ride over all with one small issue.
When the bike is at operating temperature and idling in neutral the idle is right around 1100 rpm which is where it should be according to the manual but when you pull the clutch in and put the bike into gear the idle jumps up to over 1600 rpm. I have checked for manifold leaks as best I can using the prescribed test from the shop manual (there are non as far as I can tell), ECMDroid does not report any error codes and I have reset the TPS several times. I have tried disabling the Baro sensor and going back to my stock tune but other than making the bike run like crap does not change the fast idle in gear issue. I have tried trolling around the web for any info on this issue and found nothing.
So here I am with an almost perfectly running bike and my hat in hand. Any help you guys could provide would be much appreciated.
Gord
Does the clutch switch work? Test it for continuity.
That’s good to know but is there a logical step by step process to check each of these components out?
One more development, now when I shut the bike off the fuel pump primes repeatedly even with the key off and out of the ignition. It makes the same priming sound as when you first turn the key on to start the bike but it does it when the pier to the bike is cut by the ignition switch and keeps doing it every 30 seconds or so. It does stop eventually but it might cycle through 8 or 9 times before it stops. Or I can just pull the fuel pump fuse at that kills it too but that does look very cool pulling up to the coffee shop, lifting the seat and yanking out a fuse to get it to stop.
Related? Not sure but other than these two issues the bike still runs great.
Yep, lots of things control the idle speed circuit, including the tune you are running and thats next to check because it is what you changed last.
But first...because of this:
You should do this:
Cooter: "Does the clutch switch work? Test it for continuity."
Proper diagnosis means to check one thing at a time in order. Not making wild stabs at everything in the circuit all at once. That would be frustrating, time consuming, and more expensive.
The fuel pump will cycle even with the key off on the later bikes, that's normal.
My 1125cr does that, kinda freaked me out when I first got the bike.
Does it do it when using the kill switch to shut down the engine ?
Yes