Cooter, I will check on the clutch switch today after work and report my findings back here.
Hi Ggeezer,
my half cent, and probably superfluous.
Keep also in mind that I am talking about my experience with a MY 2009, but it should be not different.
As all have already said, Idling mode is recognized by ECM also trough clutch status so it is quite clever, also cause it's easy, to check the switch that report that before all.
Idling mode, means the Bike is working with various maps and settings different for the ones used in running condition and that wrong change probably what is happening to your bike when you put her in gear.
To be honest, as far as I know, at least some of the trouble of the switch should be shown by CEL, but anyway I completely agree to check it.
The same run for neutral switch.
Just, saying 'check for continuity', it seems to me a bit short explication if you are not aware of the system. (May be you are...I don't know)
What I would do (have done) is to disconnect the connector just below the lever, have a multimeter, set it on DC Voltage, Ignition switch ON, On/Off button ON; at this point check voltage between the two pins of MALE connector. It must be close to 5 V. If you switch OFF Ignition and/or button voltage must get back to 0. Like that you are sure of voltage from ECM and the soundness of the cable supplying the related ground to the frame. Please do not check this two pins with multimeter set to Ohm; like this you are supplying an external voltage to the ECM and I'm not fully sure it is not going to hurt something.
Now on FEMALE connector (switch side), multimeter set on Ohm, you must find OPEN circuit with the lever released and CLOSED circuit when you pull (almost full) the lever.
Check for a sharp and net change and repeat it a few time to be sure this mood is steady.
I had a 'mood' problem in that switch that was very dirty and I solved it with the help of a contact cleaner without having to change it. If you like mechanical clocks you can even open it.
About fuel pump cycling without ignition key it seems to me also odd, but many guys said MY 2010 must like this. I have not got any evidences saying not...
If you like to put in your hand, few suggestion from a learner (me):
If you did not get them yet, have both your service manual and the Electric service manual: they are not the most 'user friendly' I saw in my live but they can get you close. Some guys can tell you how and where to get them.
Data Logs reading are a powerful troubleshooting tool, if can get some from your bike when giving trouble, get it.
If you need help to read them, you will find here some guys willing to give it to you.
Let us know.
Best regards, Osvaldo
P.S. I am very happy that, aside this oddity, your bike run, now, as you like, same what I'm looking for
Last edited by osvaldo; 09-05-2019 at 06:44 PM.
Thanks Osvaldo, I really appreciate the in-depth instructions. While I I have worked on cars and bikes most of my life this is the first bike I have owned with such a complex engine management system and EFI. This will be a fairly steep leaning curve for me but I think I'm up for the challenge.
Just riding this bike gives me all the motivation I need. It is so fun!
Ok, I finally found some spare time to do a bit of testing. I tested both the clutch switch and the neutral switch and both are working as they should. With the key on I get 12 volts at the harness on both and both switches test okay for continuity as well.
Hi Ggeezer,
maybe I’m wrong, but I think those voltages should be close to 5 volts. (at least so are on MY 2009)
My be some guys that know for sure about that can jump in.
Have you on hand the Electrical service manual for your bike?
To be honest I really don't even know if it has been ever published, but as far as for MY 2008 can be easily found on the net.
I did not find the one for MY2009.
Just in case everything is OK on those switches, as I told I think that if you can read the logs you can take with ECMDroid, it can be helpful.
Even better if can see also how your ECM is actually set, with tunerpro or something equivalent.
I know that 'mood' raised up without changing anything on ECM, but in any case it's not bad to have a look.
Check the clutch switch for continuity (OHM scale on your meter) and operation (operate lever).
What are those 2 readings?
If that switch is OK, it is the new tune you put in. Talk to the source of the tune IF that switch is OK.
No need to complicate things.
Ok, it was the switch. After I checked to see if it had power to the plug and that the switch actually worked I saw that the contacts on the plug were slightly corroded. I sprayed contact cleaner on them and applied a little di-electric grease to prevent further corrosion and she now idles at around 1000 RPM with the transmission in gear and the clutch disengaged.
Thanks to all who offered to help point me in the right direction. I don't think I would have thought to start at the clutch switch (something I didn't even know existed before it was suggested here) and I would probably have started tearing the engine down of something equally as stupid.
Anyway, thanks. I am indebted to you all.
PS Oswaldo, I have found and ordered a copy of the 2010 Buell XB12s Electrical Service Manual. I think it will be a good investment for me.
Sorry, Osvaldo