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Thread: Intermittent CEL - Error Code 33

  1. #11
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    Whelp, got the new pump and regulator installed. Fired right up, idles fine, CEL went out for about 10 seconds on startup, thought I was in the clear, and then came back on. Still an error code 33. Took it down the road for about 10 minutes and it runs as good as ever.......I guess check the harness? Not entirely sure how to do that..........

  2. #12
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    separate problems that should be addressed individually. your blown 10A pump fuse was the result of either a faulty pump motor or chafing internal pump wires. no idea if you carefully checked those wires during your pump service project.
    1-you'll need to clear your historical fault codes....specifically #33....before continuing or everything else becomes moot point. read 2.11......read 2.30
    2-no need to tear apart the main feed wiring harness from ecm circuitry to actual pump wiring harness. simply perform an "ohms test" with a multi-meter. read 2.44 for circuitry check.
    your problem is specifically listed right there. click link below...use the guidelines/schematics i've outlined for you.

    http://buellmods.com/content/downloa...ics_manual.pdf

  3. #13
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    Hey lunatic thanks for the help. I posted pics earlier from when I pulled the pump assembly. Didn't see any signs of chaffing at all, all the wiring looked good. CEL is working as advertised on 2.4 and does exactly as stated in step 2 part C of that page. I had referenced 2.11 before but my question with that is why do I have to clear the historical code? If I fix the issue, won't the CEL go off after the 8 second period (like in step 2 part B of 2.4) showing me there is no current trouble code?

    2.30 that you reference above in my Electrical Diagnostic Manual is 2.30 DTC P1110 (22), P1111 (22), P1112 (22) (JAPANESE MODELS ONLY)? And I don't even see a section 2.44?

    I don't have ecmspy or a computer to run it, so ill have to find someone that can clear the code for me. Thanks for all the help guys!

  4. #14
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    you're welcome. even if the cause of the fault code has been resolved...historically it remains in your ECM. if historical fault code #33 is the only one stored and you have rectified the problem then it will "self-clear" after 50 trouble-free run cycles.

  5. #15
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    Whelp, I took the multimeter and checked all 4 wires in the fuel pump harness off the negative battery terminal to make sure I didn't have a short somewhere in the harness and nothing grounded out (except the ground wire on the pump harness). Also, none of the wires in the harness ground to each other, so looks like no chaffing there. Is it just an ECM issue? I can't find any shops around Tucson that can help a brother out with clearing the trouble codes. Any more guesses?

  6. #16
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    A historical code won't illuminate the CEL. Only a "current" code will do that. The CEL is on because even though you replaced the pump, you still have the problem
    To clarify what Lunatic said...the "historical" code is what goes away after 50 run cycles. No need to force-clear it to turn off the CEL.

    I'm not sure what you are describing in your wire check, but first put the meter to the lowest OHMS scale and check each end of each wire separately (with the ECM and fuel pump disconnected). You are looking for good continuity. Wiggle the harness while you are hooked up to each wire. Don't be lazy about it, remember you WANT to find the problem.

    Have you swapped your relays around? What the condition of the fuse box? Corrosion? Take the relays and fuses out and look closely with a good light.
    Last edited by Cooter; 10-17-2019 at 12:58 AM.

  7. #17
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    Yeah Cooter thanks what I was tracking as far as the CEL goes.

    As far as the wires, I did what you are describing. I checked each wire individually from the ECM to the fuel pump and have good continuity in each wire showing steady at about 2 ohms. I also checked each one of those against each other to rule out any chaffing inside the harness between fuel pump wires. Then I checked each of those wires off of a good ground (the negative terminal of the battery) to insure I don't have a short in any of those wires and still no issues. I have checked the fuse box and its looks just fine and has good continuity through it as well. I have not checked the relays, thats a good call.

    Some of the flow charts in the electrical diagnostic manual end with "Replace ECM". Hopefully thats not the case.

    Thoughts?

  8. #18
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    A ECM is certainly a possibility. Rare but possible IMO, I'd feel better continuing to check the easy/free fixes before committing to another $200+

    Sounds like the wirings OK. The relays are the same and can be swapped, check the terminals for corrosion. A bad connection can add enough resistance to pop a fuse. CRC Aerosol cleaner works pretty well to shoot it in there. I'd avoid adding di-lectric grease so far. Maybe after we find the problem.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    A ECM is certainly a possibility. Rare but possible IMO, I'd feel better continuing to check the easy/free fixes before committing to another $200+

    Sounds like the wirings OK. The relays are the same and can be swapped, check the terminals for corrosion. A bad connection can add enough resistance to pop a fuse. CRC Aerosol cleaner works pretty well to shoot it in there. I'd avoid adding di-lectric grease so far. Maybe after we find the problem.
    Great idea, thanks Cooter ill give it a shot!



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