Reply With QuoteI spent a live as mech. technician, just discovered this forum, not enough to understand your quote.(Sigh) I think we found a new TP-Hawk...
But enough to understand you are so full of gas that you fart more with your mouth than your ass.
Hi Marius,
for as low as 65 bucks I would sure change it and keep mine as spare.
As far as you sure to get a good one and right for your bike.
Standoff is just the place where left inner race stop when you thigh axle.
If you get it 1/8" shorter you will move your whole assembly 1/8" to left.(your is probably not shorter, just badly worn outside)
You will get problem with wheels alignment, belt, and probably with brake caliper.
But if the inner race is stopped there you still will able to thigh everything together.
Wheel bearings on your bike are not designed to work with preload and you will not have it if you don't over thigh the axle so much to crash the inner spacer.
Only the left side outer race is bottoming in the rim seat, the right one will stay in the position determinate by inner spacer length that is slightly bigger than the distance between outer races seats shoulders. As is correct to be with your type of bearing, no preload, but few 1000s of side play.
So said, buy off course the used one ad change it.
Last edited by zanzibar; 09-29-2019 at 10:08 AM.
I spent a live as mech. technician, just discovered this forum, not enough to understand your quote.(Sigh) I think we found a new TP-Hawk...
But enough to understand you are so full of gas that you fart more with your mouth than your ass.
marius: i keep the below NEW factory and aftermarket parts in stock at near my original dealer cost for board members if needed. PM me if you need anything. i'm in southern PA. so you can either swing by and pick up or shipping would be cheap to any other point in PA.
front rotors
rear rotors
front and rear brake pads
front and rear wheel bearing kits
swingarm bearing kits
DAVID: regarding your axle/bearing question....both the front and rear XB axles and clamping surfaces are a thing of beauty both in design and simplicity. my only complaint thru the decades has been the excessive belt tension, which can be addressed and rectified very simply. the wheel placement....alignment...bearing preload...and correct installation is a brilliant and well-engineered design. it goes like this: both sides of both rims have a bearing pocket. each pocket has a small lip or "floor" that the bearing bottoms out against. each wheel has an inner bearing spacer which looks like a long thin tube. the left interior swingarm side has a built-in spacer....the right side does NOT. that spacer is part of the axle. the axle shaft itself is tapered on both ends like a funnel. when everything is assembled correctly and within factory tolerances and specs.....you install the axle from the pulley side and it engages threads machined into the swingarm on the rotor side. yet another nice piece of engineering on buells' part. as the axle is installed and gently starts to tighten the "funnels" feed themselves thru both wheel bearings which centers the wheel and begins to move it up and back and snug everything up including the belt.
lastly....when the axle is torqued to spec it has not only aligned everything but has now become a complete "fixture". the "fixture" in other words, is the axle...the inner bearing races....the inner wheel/bearing spacer. it is now all clamped together which allows the wheel assembly to freely rotate around the fixture. and what is everything clamped "against"? the spacer that is part of the inner left side of the swingarm....and the spacer that is part of the right side of the axle. that's as simple as i can explain it.
Last edited by user_deleted; 09-29-2019 at 03:55 PM.
Thanks John, another mystery of the universe solved!
I'm honored to be part of the first-name club now
Originally Posted by lunaticfringe
Fully agree and Very well explained, Thank you.
Just right side bearing outer race is supposed to get very close to the "floor" but not fully bottom it.
Right side Inner race must bottom with inner spacer just a bit before.
Do you agree?
Anyway great explication.
Any suggestion you can give us?has been the excessive belt tension, which can be addressed and rectified very simply
my pleasure david. thank you zanzibar for the compliment. and yes sir...you're correct.
i put a light coating of general purpose grease on the outer shell of each wheel bearing....the inner spacer tube....the axle itself but NOT the threads. NEVER EVER apply a coating of grease to a bearing pocket that has a "lip" or "floor" to it, such as an XB. i have seen a few thru the decades that had this done during assembly and as the bearing was driven in, the grease was pushed against the "lip/floor" and actually hydraulic'ed.... and not only broke out a portion of the bearing pocket but put a hairline crack in the rim.
on the REAR WHEEL you install the rotor side bearing first till it bottoms against the bearing pocket floor....then flip the wheel over having the pulley side facing upward. drop in the inner spacer tube....then press in the bearing till the inner race contacts the spacer tube. you can hear and feel it when that happens. you MUST keep the spacer tube straight so that correct contact between it and the inner race is achieved. just get it close. the axle will do the rest once the wheel assembly is installed and axle torqued to spec.
belt tension???? remove a few millimeters of of material at arrows. lessens the tension.
DSCN2226.png
Last edited by user_deleted; 09-30-2019 at 12:12 AM.
Good to know! Thanks for the suggestions.
Also, can one of you take a look at the pictures of my rear wheel and let me know whether the inner spacer on the rotor side looks the same as the inner spacer on the belt side, or whether there are differences. I am trying to determine whether the wheel is shot as well!?
Thanks,
Marius
Posting Permissions
