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Thread: preparing for rear rocker gasket leak

  1. #1
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    preparing for rear rocker gasket leak

    So I need to dig in and verify the leak is where I think it's for sure from the rear rocker cover, but at this point I'm pretty sure it is, and want to prepare myself for what all I need to get. You can barely see it in the picture, but I noticed some oil caked on the hose behind the rear cylinder, and when I reached up and touched the fins towards the top, there was some fresh oil. S Do I for sure need a rear wheel stand? I wasn't sure if this was a necessity when loosening the belt to rotate the engine, or if it's just to keep things in line during the actual rotation. Is there any know how required once the engine is rotated to remove/replace the gaskets, outside of the steps mentioned in the service manual? Feeling a little overwhelmed by the size of this job, but paying a shop for a full day's labor is not an option, either. I'm going to have to do this in a carport/driveway, most likely over several nights.IMG_4853.jpg

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    Senior Member rchuff's Avatar
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    Could be one of 2 thing or both, rocket cover or rocket box. If not sure I would do both but is a little labor intensive. You should get a manual to do the job or if you have then you should be good. Take your time. As far as a stand goes it does make the job easier in the upright position. Just my 2 cents.
    Last edited by rchuff; 02-23-2020 at 11:54 AM.

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    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    I've done this job both in my basement and in my ramshackle shed. I used a cheap MC jack and a wheel stand with a peice of bar stock through the front axle to keep the bike secure and upright. It can be done in some pretty sketchy surroundings, but if you have the opportunity to beg borrow or steal some well lit warm shop space, doit! Like rchuff said take ur time and it's a breeze. And remember we r here for ya!


    Ps. I dont think this step was in the write up on doing the rotate, but I always take off the entire left foot rest assembly, because if the motor wiggles to the left as it comes down the primary will hit that and put a big a$$ gouge in the primary cover. I think I had that issue because of the way the motorcycle jack pivots on the way down.

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    Thanks for the advice guys, and I really appreciate the offer lunatic. I'm in phoenix area, though. I've found that thread too, and actually a youtube video with all those steps as well so should be a good reference. I also saw some advice you posted lunatic awhile back about using opposing ratchet straps from the handlebars to j-hooks in the rafters. Might try that too. Is there anything special about seating the gaskets, or any kind of break in period or considerations when I get back to riding?

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    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RidetheLightning View Post
    Thanks for the advice guys, and I really appreciate the offer lunatic. I'm in phoenix area, though. I've found that thread too, and actually a youtube video with all those steps as well so should be a good reference. I also saw some advice you posted lunatic awhile back about using opposing ratchet straps from the handlebars to j-hooks in the rafters. Might try that too. Is there anything special about seating the gaskets, or any kind of break in period or considerations when I get back to riding?
    You are in good hands ,http://buellmods.com/

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    Quote Originally Posted by RidetheLightning View Post
    Thanks for the advice guys, and I really appreciate the offer lunatic. I'm in phoenix area, though. I've found that thread too, and actually a youtube video with all those steps as well so should be a good reference. I also saw some advice you posted lunatic awhile back about using opposing ratchet straps from the handlebars to j-hooks in the rafters. Might try that too. Is there anything special about seating the gaskets, or any kind of break in period or considerations when I get back to riding?


    yes sir, my pleasure. if you have a ceiling or some sort of overhead rafters the X-positioned tiedowns with soft straps on each grip work great.
    1-nothing special about seating the new gaskets other than squeaky clean sealing surfaces all around. some folks use permatex aviation form-a-gasket liquid sealer OR yamabond gray #1074 in conjunction with the new gaskets....though i never found it necessary.
    2-the OEM H-D gasket set is good quality and complete....the James gasket set seems to be preferred by board members and is top quality....priced a bit lower than OME kit.
    3-i can provide you with part numbers for each based on your year and model if needed.
    4-most including myself replace the intake seals...which are part of each kit...while the motor is rotated. time well spent.
    5-check your breather grommet which resides in each rocker cover. they need to be reasonably soft and supple for them to seal properly. if not replace both while the covers are off.
    6-for cheap money i'd also replace the O2 sensor located on rear header at the same time. they have a finite life and considering the age of your bike worth replacing.

    there is no "break-in" period for any sort of new gaskets or seals but always keep in mind that stop-and-go traffic combined with high engine temps is the mortal enemy of any air/oil cooled motor....XB's more so than most of the rest due to the cylinder heads and exhaust positioning.

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    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    Are you using a RSS ? especially in the phoenix area,

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Probably rocker box, the cover usually isn't the leak because its higher than the level of the drain-back oil.
    Just do them both. The rocker cover is off already. Don't forget to seal the corners, it also helps with keeping the gaskets in position while replacing the parts back on the engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    yes sir, my pleasure. if you have a ceiling or some sort of overhead rafters the X-positioned tiedowns with soft straps on each grip work great.
    1-nothing special about seating the new gaskets other than squeaky clean sealing surfaces all around. some folks use permatex aviation form-a-gasket liquid sealer OR yamabond gray #1074 in conjunction with the new gaskets....though i never found it necessary.
    2-the OEM H-D gasket set is good quality and complete....the James gasket set seems to be preferred by board members and is top quality....priced a bit lower than OME kit.
    3-i can provide you with part numbers for each based on your year and model if needed.
    4-most including myself replace the intake seals...which are part of each kit...while the motor is rotated. time well spent.
    5-check your breather grommet which resides in each rocker cover. they need to be reasonably soft and supple for them to seal properly. if not replace both while the covers are off.
    6-for cheap money i'd also replace the O2 sensor located on rear header at the same time. they have a finite life and considering the age of your bike worth replacing.

    there is no "break-in" period for any sort of new gaskets or seals but always keep in mind that stop-and-go traffic combined with high engine temps is the mortal enemy of any air/oil cooled motor....XB's more so than most of the rest due to the cylinder heads and exhaust positioning.
    It is an 07 XB12S w/ 16k miles. Was actually thinking of intake seals, so thanks for the confirmation, and I'll look into an O2 sensor. How do I confirm whether is a rocker cover or rocker box leak? Also, yes to RSS. It was definitely running lean though when I first bought it. Had K&N + Jardine and felt hot and didn't do well on hot re-starts. Bought buelltooth and confirmed lean, set tune for the air filter/exhaust combo and ran perfect with 99.7 AFR, and noticebaly cooler and seemingly more power. I also do mostly city riding in central phoenix with some jaunts up north.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    take the seat off shine a light in to the cooling fan and look at the rear cylinder ,the fan will be coated with oil also.when the box is leaking.



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