I would just smooth it out and use it, especially if you go with the EBR kit.
“Usually” pulsation is caused by the stock floating setup that it sticking.
Hey guys,
I just received a rotor I purchased off eBay, it looks pretty good, in general, other than one side of the rotor has fairly decent gauges by the mount-points. Do you think this is ok to use or should I attempt to have it surfaced at a machine shop? I'm hoping it's a non-issue but I'm brand spankin' new when it comes to the ZTL business.
Just a little background, the XB I just purchased has some pulsation when braking so I was planning to swap-out the rotor and update the hardware w/ the new EBR kit.
Thanks for your thoughts!
Dan
I would just smooth it out and use it, especially if you go with the EBR kit.
“Usually” pulsation is caused by the stock floating setup that it sticking.
Thanks for that info, I appreciate it!
you should be aware of the following and keep in mind these XB's are notorious victims of "front lever pulsation"...one of the reasons i loathe the ZTL braking system.
1-replace the pads! either EBC HH or Lyndall Gold series. the stockers are garbage and promote lever pulsation.
2-i stock and sell new rotors...pads...calipers...master cylinders...all at a tick above dealer cost to board members. if you are dissatisfied with this ebay rotor simply take advantage of their free seller return policy...return for full refund. then contact me for a new one.
3-using your SM....refer to pages 89-92 inclusive for torque specs and rotor installation configuration. SM specifies torques...punch-mark correct location(must face outward)....brake pad manufacturer specifies pad bed-in procedure. follow those recommendations.
4-do NOT use any sort of anti-seize or lubricant on the rotor installation bolts. they must be reinstalled with blue loctite and torqued to spec in the correct sequence. ALL covered in the SM.
5-the rotor pressure springs MUST be pristine and squeaky clean as should be the spring holes in the rim. skipping this step will always result in lever pulsing.
Lunaticfringe, you the man! Thank you for all that, very helpful. I did notice on a thread that the torque spec's were updated from original (25-27) to 16-18ft lbs. Do you know if that's accurate?
i do know that it's caused alot of confusion...courtesy of EBR and the replacement "fixed rotor" hardware kit.
EBR recommended that torque spec for their replacement hardware kits.
simply do what i do and thoroughly clean the original rotor bolt threads....dry....apply blue loctite as mentioned...and torque to 25 ft lbs and you'll be fine.
NOTE: if you're capable of doing this...and it's tedious but quite simple...carefully check the "run-out" of your wheel on the right/rotor side....and the "run-out" of the rotor mounting blocks on the wheel. APPROXIMATE max run-out on the wheel is 0.030 inches.......APPROXIMATE max run-out on the rotor mounting blocks is 0.012 inches.
if either or both exceed max specs it will pulse the hell out the brake lever.
Last edited by user_deleted; 02-29-2020 at 08:49 PM.
That is hilarious! One of my favorite Dave Chapelle skits! What would life be without temperamental high-maintenance toys though!