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Thread: More issues uncovered, XB9S Front Fender Bolt stripped...

  1. #1
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    Angry More issues uncovered, XB9S Front Fender Bolt stripped...

    Man, so my recently purchased XB9S is full of surprises. First discover was the pulsating front brake lever (working on that), next was the corrosion-filled rear cylinder coil boot, and last night an unusual one...for me at least:

    So, attempting & VERY EXCITED to do my new rotor & EBR hardware kit when the last bolt gave me big problems. It was especially tight, compared to the rest, and at about 3/4-out is began to get extremely difficult to back-out. As it started getting harder I decided to let it sit 10 minutes, thinking maybe it was heating-up causing friction, nope...went back at it and stripped-out the torx head. D'OH!!! Pissed. So, half-way through drilling it out my drill lost power because I left the charger at a friends (no fault of my bike on that one!).

    Very frustrating. Anyone ever experience the mysterious tightening bold upon removal? I can't think of a more frustrating task than drilling-out stripped bolts. Uhg.

    On a better note, I've got a new coil on order from St. Paul Harley Davidson, only $40 for a new unit!

    20200309_192105.jpg

  2. #2
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Ah, the life and times of a 10-15 year old bike!

  3. #3
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Bolts will do that if they are corroded or especially if they have been overtightened #Buellizm. Overtightening that hard stainless steel bolt into soft aluminum = trouble.

    All the body fasteners need a T27 screwdriver. Not a T27 on a ratchet, you can easily over torque those tiny fasteners.

    Next time you feel a fastener do that, spray some penetrant in the backside of the hole (PB Blaster is good) and screw it back in, then out, then in, then out (wow, is it getting hot in here?) and it should go easier and not ruin the threads.

    Right now take off the other 3 fender bolts, get the head off the stuck one to get the fender out of the way. Sand, cut, or grind the remaining bolt piece as flat as you can (a dremel works great for that). Use a small sharp punch to divot the very center on the bolt. Start with a 1/8" bit to drill the exact center of the bolt out and work up to 13/64" (#7) but no bigger! From there try a thread chaser to clean up the hole. If that doesn't work use a tap to cut new threads.

    If you screw that up ^^^^, get a 1/4"-20 helicoil kit and follow the directions on it.

    Stripped a torx? Wow, man thats hard to do. Are you sure you are using a T27 bit? A T25 is close but is too small and will strip them like that.

    Good luck, enjoy your garagebeer

  4. #4
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    Yes, the life of a 17 year old bike...it's quite the mind-trip because last time I was this intimate (getting hot in here again, haha) was when I was Designing parts for it back in 2001-2002! Man, I'm getting old!

    Cooter, thanks for the instructions and yes, I'm using a T27. It got REAL tight. I really should have thought to lubricate it. I have a bad tendency to rush the "small stuff" in route the the larger operation. I've paid the price this time!

  5. #5
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    You’ll be okay. Go slow and take your time. Since the bolt has a shoulder, you may have something to work with once the head comes off. At least it’s not a blind hole and you could theoretically draw the bolt out the other side if one side gets beat up. Also you, if things go sideways, you could carefully drill it all the way out an use a through bolt and nut. Lastly, since it’s covered by the fender, any indiscretions will be your secret.

    Worst case, you can always pull the fork leg and take to a machine shop.
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 03-10-2020 at 09:21 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    I don't think I've owned or worked on a single used buell that I haven't had to remove a broken or cross threaded bolt. Even the Ulysses I bought brand new is on the list (thanks HD mechanic who over tightened an airbox bolt)

    I've kept a few extra OE bolts out of some parts bundles and keep that 1/4-20 tap handy and lubed! Good drill bits and a set of "easy outs" are a life saver too.

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    Thank you for that, BuellyBagger...good to know I haven't suddenly become a hack! I feel a little better

    34nineteen, I've never used Easy-Outs, they just look like they'd strip out as well, but I guess I've got nothing to lose!

    Can't work on it tonight but I'll be back on the front-end come Wednesday, I'll report back! At least this gives me something to do while I wait for that new Coil!

    Thanks everyone~

  8. #8
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuellyBagger View Post

    I've kept a few extra OE bolts out of some parts bundles and keep that 1/4-20 tap handy and lubed!
    Hey man... can you spare a CA0018.02A8 or two for a guy a need? I need it to um... buy a bus ticket.


  9. #9
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34nineteen View Post
    Hey man... can you spare a CA0018.02A8 or two for a guy a need? I need it to um... buy a bus ticket.

    I might have a couple left in my stash. This new to me Ulysses was missing one in the chin fairing, missing two on the lower airbox and had one broken off in the hole at the rear of the airbox cover! U actually need some?

  10. #10
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    Left hand drill bits are also an option. If you buy a set, keep them in a pouch no where near the rest of the bits or they will sneak in and burn up.



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