Buell XB fuel pump removal in 7 minutes.

[Cooter]

These awesome bikes are getting older and the scourge of Ethanol in our gasoline and sitting in a garage is a hard life for a electric fuel pump.

I hope this serves as inspiration for the home mechanic to do this job themselves and get out there and RIDE your Buell!!
Couple of hints:
Its not always the pump itself so get a COMPLETE kit from a GOOD SOURCE, that includes the o-rings, internal hoses and seals, and of course the filter.
The o-rings on the output are different sizes, and DO NOT over tighten that 1/2" nut.
Put sealant on the 4 pump mounting bolts.
a tiny bit of grease on the o-rings helps install easily.
Do not be tempted by the cheap off-shore options, unless you like doing this job so much you want to do it twice?
Here ya go
Tools ya need.
drain pan, funnel, 1/2" wrench, 3/16" allen, T40 torx, prybar/spacer

Getting access:
An a-frame ladder and ratchet straps works really well if you don't have rafters, or a moto lift. You're only lifting about 100-150lbs so if you feel safe doing a chin-up on it you're good.

[Cooter]

Draining the always-topped-off-and-disgusting gas is always 'fun'. You can control the flow using the gas cap as a vent. No smoking!

Removal: Use one of the pump mount bolts (or rear-set bolt is the same) to pry it out. Slow pressure works better than trying to smash it out. You can add a washer to the bolt, or use a door trim removal tool if you have trouble with it slipping off the head.


Just like that!
Took 7 minutes including taking the video, so put down the beer and get out there and do it

[Kurlon]

One small tip - For draining the gas, raid the kitchen and steal some aluminum foil. Use that to make a splash shield and flow diverter into the bucket/fuel jug/wife's finest mixing bowl or whatever you're catching the slop in. No gas soaked rags/etc to clean up after, and gas won't go through it so no gas mess transfer through either.

[Cooter]

Thats a good tip!


SMT

[motoguy]

I'd recommend picking up a small roll / bit of cable wrap as well. My '06 didn't have any and there were a couple of abrasion marks on my wires. The later bikes (08?) had it installed from the factory to prevent abrasion / shorting of the wires. You only need about 6" of it.

kable-kontrol-braided-cable-sleeving-cable-management-cord-organizer-cord-hider-cable-organizer-.jpg

You'll also want a set of Oetiker pliers for the metal clamps on the fuel pump assembly.

https://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-14100...3251637&sr=8-3

Other than those two items, my Revision Moto kit had everything I needed. I'd recommend a Revision Moto kit or Aasgard kit. As mentioned in the OP, for a few extra $ you'll only have to do the job once. I started pricing the individual components, and for $100 I don't think you can beat the Revision Moto kit. It included the OEM Walbro pump as well.

[Cooter]

Thanks, love the info! Should I document the re-build process the next one I do?

[starman]

Thanks Cooter, I have the fuel pump on my winter maintenance list. Helps to see the processes,

[motoguy]

I used the Aagaard video posted here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdRLwDRlqhA&t=2529s

It doesn't help with removal (there are other videos on that), but it does help with the rebuild. Once difference I ran into...he places the rubber hoses/fittings on the filter before installing the filter in the housing. I was unable to seat my filter when I did this. The rubber fittings "coned" up in the housing and wouldn't allow the filter to seat all the way. I had to install the rubber hose/fitting into the housings first, and then push the filter into them. I oiled up the nipples on the filter and this worked just fine. This allowed me to fully seat the filter.

All in all the process was pretty straightforward. Remember to oil / lube up your o-rings well prior to installing them, and make sure not to damage them as you install them (metal threads, sharp edges, etc). The O-rings on the fuel line fitting are 2 different sizes, but look the same size at first glance. They aren't the same size.

Speaking of the fuel line fitting, make sure you do not overtighten the fitting when you reinstall the unit into the bike frame. It appears to be a hollow brass fitting...I can only imagine how easily it can snap off.

[motoguy]

Cooter, I notice you didn't remove your rear wheel during the fuel pump exchange. I removed mine because I was concerned of damaging the belt at full extension when I removed the shock. If I can do the replacement without removing the rear wheel, the job just became much easier / faster.

[Cooter]

7 minutes, including the recording!

Ahh! I didn't know Chaz had posted a vid, I'll check it out. I trust his work (and that's a RARE thing these days).

I agree with your installation tips and do it the same way myself. The fuel filter 'seals' supplied by Rev-Mo are just hose pieces cut to size, I'd recommend the OE seals (I think thats what Barrett supplies) as they fit much better. Both do work ok with a little lube. I address the outlet fitting and o-ring sizes in the vid, cranking on that poor 1/2" nut won't make it seal any better. If it leaks... som-ting went wong and you better take it back off and check.

I have noticed a weird thing with the large O-rings that seal the base. Once installed they swell a bit, so removing and trying to re-install them will pinch them. If you let them sit out overnight they'll shrink again. Weird. I only use Viton and haven't noticed that in any other application.