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Thread: Rear wheel bearing/wheel

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post

    - all wiring was checked and confirmed no shorts or grounds
    what do you mean no "shorts or grounds"? Do you mean "no short circuits to ground"? Or literally no grounds? You need to have grounds to have a complete circuit.


    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post

    - battery and stator are fine
    Fine as in how? Fine as in the battery worked great when new? or fine as in "I took the battery to a reputable battery shop (not an auto parts house) and had them fully charge and load test the battery with motorcycle battery specific test equipment". What did you test on the stator and what were your readings? Based on your first analysis, my guess is that you mean "the muffler and windscreen are fine".

    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post

    Now the errors I’m getting are:

    - F-R AF SYS ERROR so a P1047
    How did you get this error code without the Buelltooth? Or do you have another diagnostic tool? If so, then getting the Buelltooth isnt really going to help, as all it is, is just an device to allow the motorcycle to talk to another device via a bluetooth connection. You will need software or an app to actually access the trouble codes on your ECM.

    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    - A fuel error (it only comes on while riding, so I wasn’t able to get it clearly)
    How did you get this error? How do you know its a fuel error? How can you get a specific code like you said above, but can not get a clear error code for this?

    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    on the top right-hand of the readout cluster under the tacho there’s a count up(?) to 10?????
    What? Top right-hand readout cluster under the tacho? So, its on the top of the cluster, but under the tach? And nothing on the stock Buell cluster "counts up to 10".

    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    It does have an aftermarket can on it but no idea if the ECM was configured to fit. What’s worse is I can’t see what brand the exhaust is there are no obvious markings. So my concern is that the ECM might need to be remapped.
    So, what map are you going to use? If you dont know what the muffler is you are just guessing. So before you think about remapping the ECM, you need to figure out the exhaust FIRST. What if the bike already has the correct map? . Hopefully your muffler is a aftermarket piece intended for the bike and not a $30 cheap eBay universal piece. Also, remapping the ECM is not going to fix the clogged strainer or gone entirely fuel pump. You are putting the cart ahead of the horse.

    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    Then my other concern is that if the bike was stored for a while the strainer is clogged on the fuel pump or the pump is gone entirely, which would explain why the errors goes away after a while when riding.
    If the pump was gone entirely, the bike would not run.

    It also does NOT explain why the error goes away after a while when riding. Nor does a clogged strainer get unclogged as you are riding. A clogged strainer may allow the bike just enough fuel to idle, but not be rideable (as that requires more fuel which a strainer will not allow if it was clogged).

    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    And also if a fuel cleaner additive might be worthwhile. The way I see it, if the fuel filter is clogged and the additive cleans it a little and remove the errors then I’ll be focusing more on replacing the pump.
    A can of Seafoam will fix all of your above problems.
    You suspect you have a clogged strainer. You pour in some fuel cleaner and it cleans out the strainer. Where does that debris go? To the injectors. Great move. Pour two bottles of cleaner in there while you are at it, it may double your horsepower also.

    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    While I’m waiting for the Buelltooth to come in I’m asking you all what your thoughts are?
    After reading this train wreck, do not work on your bike.



    LASTLY, WHY THE F*CK IS THIS IN A THREAD ABOUT WHEEL BEARINGS???!?!?!!?!?!?
    Last edited by casual_observer; 05-16-2020 at 10:48 PM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Wow, did you type all that with one hand?

    Lighten up, chill the eff out, or maybe go bother someone else on another board.

    If you’re going to attack someone on here, go after Cooter.

    45 posts in 3 years? Stick to lurking, you seem smarter.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I'm getting chills that seem oh so familiar...

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I'm getting chills that seem oh so familiar...
    I'm reading that post rolling my eyes and shaking my head. Just from the questioning of the error message suggests that the poster has either never had an error on his Buell EVER or simply never had a Buell as I can't see how putting on here what the instrument cluster was saying back to me is baffling. That and how the words "FUEL SYS ERROR" doesn't make one automatically think "probably the fuel system"

  5. #15
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    You can use an industrial quality epoxy on the wheels, like Belzona or Thortex. You'll have to open them up a bit to give the epoxy some thickness. Since these epoxies don't shrink or expand while curing you end up with a perfect fit, better than if it were machined, you'll have to come up with a way to center the bearing in the hub, make sure to let it fully cure then just grind of the excess or whip it off while it's wet, use a piece of plastic.

    Oh yeah, don't forget to put shoe polish on the bearing before seating it or you'll never get that sucker out as the epoxy will also adhere to it.

  6. #16
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    Alright numbnuts, I'll bite.....

    "what do you mean no "shorts or grounds"? Do you mean "no short circuits to ground"? Or literally no grounds? You need to have grounds to have a complete circuit. "

    What I meant was that there were no short circuits or wires mucking around etc. etc. Seeing as how you're going to pick something apart because it didn't meet your interpretation.

    "Fine as in how? Fine as in the battery worked great when new? or fine as in "I took the battery to a reputable battery shop (not an auto parts house) and had them fully charge and load test the battery with motorcycle battery specific test equipment". What did you test on the stator and what were your readings? Based on your first analysis, my guess is that you mean "the muffler and windscreen are fine".

    Fine as in battery readouts during idle, running and on startup (voltage etc.) were reading at normal levels and according to the Buell manual supplied to the mechanic. Who did the test? My mechanic, who is also an electrical engineer (for what that's worth). And I pay my mechanic because I don't have the tools or setup to do the maintenance myself. Based on your interpretation you'd have your food checked at NASA because you can't trust your stomach to tell you chicken is rotten. I trust my mechanic and unless something proves otherwise I'll continue to trust him.

    "How did you get this error code without the Buelltooth? Or do you have another diagnostic tool? If so, then getting the Buelltooth isnt really going to help, as all it is, is just an device to allow the motorcycle to talk to another device via a bluetooth connection. You will need software or an app to actually access the trouble codes on your ECM."

    I got the error code because the panel read (and I quote):

    F-R AF SYS ERROR

    AND

    FUEL SYS ERROR (this one I will admit there may have been another word there but as pointed out in my post, these error codes only show up while riding and in motion)

    And I know that F-R AF SYS ERROR is P1047 because.... *drumroll with your head on a concrete wall* it says it in the manual, so unless you've either never had an error, never read a manual or never had a Buell - then your point is pants-on-head trolling. Just for your sake please see attached snapshot titled "BUELLERROR" you special little snowflake.

    Also you can access some levels of diagnostics from the dash readout itself, which is again listed in the manual. No I haven't put it in diagnostics as yet, so crucify me for that, mea culpa you mongoloid bum-cheese.

    "How did you get this error? How do you know its a fuel error? How can you get a specific code like you said above, but can not get a clear error code for this? "

    I'll refer to above.

    "What? Top right-hand readout cluster under the tacho? So, its on the top of the cluster, but under the tach? And nothing on the stock Buell cluster "counts up to 10"."

    Snapshot attached titled "BUELLERROR2" showing the position that I saw it, the readout replaced the odometer readout with numbers upon glancing going from 1, then 5, then 8 and then 10 and when it hit 10, it paused at that point then went back to odometer and the error lights went away. I'm coming here for help to understand things about my bike that out of most people would know more than me and more about these bikes because we own them and have probably worked on them, why on earth would I have reason to lie or be anything other than "hey this is all I could get, please help". Because while I do trust my mechanic, he's thorough so would happily deconstruct it down to the smallest piece just to make sure it's working fine, I would rather have a starting point to save the time and money.

    "So, what map are you going to use? If you dont know what the muffler is you are just guessing. So before you think about remapping the ECM, you need to figure out the exhaust FIRST. What if the bike already has the correct map? . Hopefully your muffler is a aftermarket piece intended for the bike and not a $30 cheap eBay universal piece. Also, remapping the ECM is not going to fix the clogged strainer or gone entirely fuel pump. You are putting the cart ahead of the horse. "

    No kidding, I do need to figure out exhaust because otherwise what am I going to tune it to. My thoughts on the ECM being out was on a forum post either here or BadWeather bikers saying that P1047 error code MIGHT be related to air/fuel being out and if the exhaust has been changed then it's possible that it could be running irregularly. No I haven't been able to find the post, and no I never said "it's the ECM, I'm gonna map it" I wanted the Buelltooth information readout to see what it might tell me, before I did anything which I did say, but I guess in your 'tism REEEEEE'ing you missed that point you absolute HAM SANDWICH.

    Also - yep I'll cop it on the chin that I've been slack in taking a photo of the exhaust to get the forum's thoughts because it reminded me of an FMF Apex exhaust.

    "If the pump was gone entirely, the bike would not run.

    It also does NOT explain why the error goes away after a while when riding. Nor does a clogged strainer get unclogged as you are riding. A clogged strainer may allow the bike just enough fuel to idle, but not be rideable (as that requires more fuel which a strainer will not allow if it was clogged). "


    You got me there, I did say the pump was gone. So I screwed up there. As far as a clogged strainer, is it not possible for varnish to accumulate in areas where fuel is stored without circulation for lengthy periods of time and accumulate on key points if the bike wasn't stored properly. To that end, fresh fuel could possibly move through and provide some cleaning but not entirely (breaking up some of the varnish). If you disagree then you've never had an old carburettor bike (my first was a '94 GPX250 that I had to clean the carbs and fuel bowls of because it had been in storage for over a year when I bought it). My thought process was that the error was not long after starting out on a ride AND occurred on a sudden startup where I opened up the throttle suddenly, but then vanished after that.

    http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/me...tml?1260454665

    "A can of Seafoam will fix all of your above problems.
    You suspect you have a clogged strainer. You pour in some fuel cleaner and it cleans out the strainer. Where does that debris go? To the injectors. Great move. Pour two bottles of cleaner in there while you are at it, it may double your horsepower also."


    You really didn't read what I was saying, nor do you consider that if it was varnish it will be dissolved and combusted, and anything bigger than the filter will stay in the filter and unlikely to pass through and if the strainer was gone entirely (thus offering no filtration) then I am curious as to if I would be getting that fuel error because the sensor would be getting the proper amount. Anyway.

    "After reading this train wreck, do not work on your bike."

    So sayeth he who doesn't know the instrument cluster can show errors, YEA AND GLORY BE TO HE....BIGBRAIN SMALLFRAME!!! AND HE SAYETH UNTO ME HIS NAME.....casual_observer. Have a donut and call it cannibalism you cabbage.

    "LASTLY, WHY THE F*CK IS THIS IN A THREAD ABOUT WHEEL BEARINGS???!?!?!!?!?!?"

    Follow up from the topic of taking my bike to the mechanic, thought it best to keep it here rather than spam post.

    To the Mods: Sorry for the rant, but this really struck a nerve.

    BUELLERROR1.jpg
    BUELLERROR1

    BUELLERROR2.jpg
    BUELLERROR2

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34nineteen View Post
    Wow, did you type all that with one hand?

    Lighten up, chill the eff out, or maybe go bother someone else on another board.

    If you’re going to attack someone on here, go after Cooter.

    45 posts in 3 years? Stick to lurking, you seem smarter.

    I'm going to apologise in advance for the long-winded rant in my last post.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by njloco View Post
    You can use an industrial quality epoxy on the wheels, like Belzona or Thortex. You'll have to open them up a bit to give the epoxy some thickness. Since these epoxies don't shrink or expand while curing you end up with a perfect fit, better than if it were machined, you'll have to come up with a way to center the bearing in the hub, make sure to let it fully cure then just grind of the excess or whip it off while it's wet, use a piece of plastic.

    Oh yeah, don't forget to put shoe polish on the bearing before seating it or you'll never get that sucker out as the epoxy will also adhere to it.
    Thanks for that brother. The good news is that the bearing seems to be fine and the mechanic used loctite to perform the fix. I do however want to get replacement wheels though. St Paul has the ‘10 1125r wheels for sale so I’ll be looking to get that in July, along with new front and rear rotor/pads. St Paul gave me a quote for shipping of $1800AUD delivered (there was some other stuff in there as well but 99% of the price were the wheels/bearings and axle).

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    Alright numbnuts, I'll bite.....

    "what do you mean no "shorts or grounds"? Do you mean "no short circuits to ground"? Or literally no grounds? You need to have grounds to have a complete circuit. "

    What I meant was that there were no short circuits or wires mucking around etc. etc. Seeing as how you're going to pick something apart because it didn't meet your interpretation.
    Its called English. Use your big boy words. If you're going to ask a large, diverse audience for help, use correct terminology or you are wasting everyones time. I'm still trying to figure out what "wires mucking around" really is...


    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    "Fine as in how? Fine as in the battery worked great when new? or fine as in "I took the battery to a reputable battery shop (not an auto parts house) and had them fully charge and load test the battery with motorcycle battery specific test equipment". What did you test on the stator and what were your readings? Based on your first analysis, my guess is that you mean "the muffler and windscreen are fine".

    Fine as in battery readouts during idle, running and on startup (voltage etc.) were reading at normal levels and according to the Buell manual supplied to the mechanic. Who did the test? My mechanic, who is also an electrical engineer (for what that's worth). And I pay my mechanic because I don't have the tools or setup to do the maintenance myself. Based on your interpretation you'd have your food checked at NASA because you can't trust your stomach to tell you chicken is rotten. I trust my mechanic and unless something proves otherwise I'll continue to trust him.
    OK got it... so you didnt confirm the battery is actually good. That test just confirmed output from the regulator. Any mechanic/electrical engineer would know the difference between voltage and amperage, and possibly the characteristics of a bad battery.
    I'm confused. Your mechanic is a electrical engineer? So, I'm going to guess he is a electrical engineer during the day and a mechanic at night? Seems weird that he would go to school and get his EE degree just to spend his nights working on bikes. But, if thats what makes him happy, to each their own.
    Or do you mean he used to be an EE and now is a mechanic? I hope your mechanic doesnt read this forum and see you bashing on his EE... you are going to NEED this guy.
    So, yes, trust your mechanic and be nice to him as you are going to need him. I'm going to guess he is telling you one thing and you are telling us something completely different.

    I wouldn't want my stomach to be what tells me the chicken is rotten, but thats just me. You do you.


    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    "How did you get this error code without the Buelltooth? Or do you have another diagnostic tool? If so, then getting the Buelltooth isnt really going to help, as all it is, is just an device to allow the motorcycle to talk to another device via a bluetooth connection. You will need software or an app to actually access the trouble codes on your ECM."

    I got the error code because the panel read (and I quote):

    F-R AF SYS ERROR

    AND

    FUEL SYS ERROR (this one I will admit there may have been another word there but as pointed out in my post, these error codes only show up while riding and in motion)

    And I know that F-R AF SYS ERROR is P1047 because.... *drumroll with your head on a concrete wall* it says it in the manual, so unless you've either never had an error, never read a manual or never had a Buell - then your point is pants-on-head trolling. Just for your sake please see attached snapshot titled "BUELLERROR" you special little snowflake.

    Also you can access some levels of diagnostics from the dash readout itself, which is again listed in the manual. No I haven't put it in diagnostics as yet, so crucify me for that, mea culpa you mongoloid bum-cheese.

    "How did you get this error? How do you know its a fuel error? How can you get a specific code like you said above, but can not get a clear error code for this? "

    I'll refer to above.
    Hey! You actually answered a question. Now we can move on to the next step! You are learning quickly. Maybe we can get you a participation award! What is "pants on head trolling" anyhow? I did a google search for it and came up with nothing, so it must be some term you made up. Aha! That explains this! You are just making up terms as you go along. No wonder this makes no sense. I'm not going to google "mongoloid butt cheese" but my guess is that you made that term up also.

    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    "What? Top right-hand readout cluster under the tacho? So, its on the top of the cluster, but under the tach? And nothing on the stock Buell cluster "counts up to 10"."

    Snapshot attached titled "BUELLERROR2" showing the position that I saw it, the readout replaced the odometer readout with numbers upon glancing going from 1, then 5, then 8 and then 10 and when it hit 10, it paused at that point then went back to odometer and the error lights went away. I'm coming here for help to understand things about my bike that out of most people would know more than me and more about these bikes because we own them and have probably worked on them, why on earth would I have reason to lie or be anything other than "hey this is all I could get, please help". Because while I do trust my mechanic, he's thorough so would happily deconstruct it down to the smallest piece just to make sure it's working fine, I would rather have a starting point to save the time and money.
    I've still never seen this, but the pic made me look in my own 1125 service book and I can't seem to find where the service book refers to it either. Maybe its in the owners manual? I work on my own bikes including my 1125's, and I don't recall this, so, this is news to me. It is weird that the service manual makes no mention of it.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    "So, what map are you going to use? If you dont know what the muffler is you are just guessing. So before you think about remapping the ECM, you need to figure out the exhaust FIRST. What if the bike already has the correct map? . Hopefully your muffler is a aftermarket piece intended for the bike and not a $30 cheap eBay universal piece. Also, remapping the ECM is not going to fix the clogged strainer or gone entirely fuel pump. You are putting the cart ahead of the horse. "

    No kidding, I do need to figure out exhaust because otherwise what am I going to tune it to. My thoughts on the ECM being out was on a forum post either here or BadWeather bikers saying that P1047 error code MIGHT be related to air/fuel being out and if the exhaust has been changed then it's possible that it could be running irregularly. No I haven't been able to find the post, and no I never said "it's the ECM, I'm gonna map it" I wanted the Buelltooth information readout to see what it might tell me, before I did anything which I did say, but I guess in your 'tism REEEEEE'ing you missed that point you absolute HAM SANDWICH.

    Also - yep I'll cop it on the chin that I've been slack in taking a photo of the exhaust to get the forum's thoughts because it reminded me of an FMF Apex exhaust.
    You still need to fix your clogged strainer or entirely gone fuel pump first. Those are the bigger problems as opposed to the wrong map for the pipe (unless the map is totally fuxored). Even then, you will need to fix the fuel supply issues first. I'm a HAM SANDWICH?!?!?!?, I like ham sandwiches, so I really don't get your point? 'Tism? What word are you trying to use? I'm guessing its a suffix, but there are over 100 words with completely different meanings ending is "'Tism"

    I'm not even going to guess whatever REEEEEE'ing means either, pretty sure you made it up.

    This seems to be a pattern with you. You need to speak/type clearly and concisely son, if you want to get your point across. Your made up terms and "half-words" really aren't getting your point across. Mean what you say and say what you mean.


    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post

    "If the pump was gone entirely, the bike would not run.

    It also does NOT explain why the error goes away after a while when riding. Nor does a clogged strainer get unclogged as you are riding. A clogged strainer may allow the bike just enough fuel to idle, but not be rideable (as that requires more fuel which a strainer will not allow if it was clogged). "


    You got me there, I did say the pump was gone. So I screwed up there. As far as a clogged strainer, is it not possible for varnish to accumulate in areas where fuel is stored without circulation for lengthy periods of time and accumulate on key points if the bike wasn't stored properly. To that end, fresh fuel could possibly move through and provide some cleaning but not entirely (breaking up some of the varnish). If you disagree then you've never had an old carburettor bike (my first was a '94 GPX250 that I had to clean the carbs and fuel bowls of because it had been in storage for over a year when I bought it). My thought process was that the error was not long after starting out on a ride AND occurred on a sudden startup where I opened up the throttle suddenly, but then vanished after that.

    http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/me...tml?1260454665
    If you think the strainer is clogged, pull it inspect it and either clean it out or replace it. Relying on fresh fuel to clean a fuel system is hoping for a miracle. If your are extremely lucky it could work, but even then its just going to break up the gunk and move it further down the stream towards the injectors. Since it sounds like you already tried your "fresh fuel cure all", it seems like it didnt work and you need to TAKE IT TO YOUR MECHANIC and have him actually fix the issue.


    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    "A can of Seafoam will fix all of your above problems.
    You suspect you have a clogged strainer. You pour in some fuel cleaner and it cleans out the strainer. Where does that debris go? To the injectors. Great move. Pour two bottles of cleaner in there while you are at it, it may double your horsepower also."


    You really didn't read what I was saying, nor do you consider that if it was varnish it will be dissolved and combusted, and anything bigger than the filter will stay in the filter and unlikely to pass through and if the strainer was gone entirely (thus offering no filtration) then I am curious as to if I would be getting that fuel error because the sensor would be getting the proper amount. Anyway.
    Well, hey they're your injectors. If you want to run a bunch of dissolved varnish through them, go right ahead. I would also wonder why that would cause a fuel error... especially because the sensor (what sensor?) would be getting the correct amount (of varnish and gas?)

    Once again, let your mechanic handle this.

    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    "After reading this train wreck, do not work on your bike."

    So sayeth he who doesn't know the instrument cluster can show errors, YEA AND GLORY BE TO HE....BIGBRAIN SMALLFRAME!!! AND HE SAYETH UNTO ME HIS NAME.....casual_observer. Have a donut and call it cannibalism you cabbage.
    Mayeth your varnish sensor have a full life of short grounds and live in harmony with your totally gone pump. Peace be with you.
    Regardless, put down the wrenches (or in your case the fuel can) and let your mechanic work on your bike.


    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    "LASTLY, WHY THE F*CK IS THIS IN A THREAD ABOUT WHEEL BEARINGS???!?!?!!?!?!?"

    Follow up from the topic of taking my bike to the mechanic, thought it best to keep it here rather than spam post.
    Start a new thread for a new issue. Or rename this thread to reflect this. People are often requested to search the forums before posting questions, and this behavior defeats that.


    Quote Originally Posted by BrutalBuell View Post
    To the Mods: Sorry for the rant, but this really struck a nerve.
    So you knew it wasnt the right thing to do, but you did it anyhow to satisfy your self esteem. You go keyboard warrior!


    sincerely,
    casual_observer aka HAM SANDWICH

    PS. what is BIGBRAIN SMALLFRAME anyhow? Does that mean you are BIGFRAME SMALLBRAI.... aha! Got it!


    Last edited by casual_observer; 05-17-2020 at 07:56 PM.

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