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Thread: XB12Ss Cooling Fan -- Shorted wiring

  1. #1
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    XB12Ss Cooling Fan -- Shorted wiring

    So I noticed that the fan wiring was not properly repositioned when the previous owner rotated the engine and the wires touched and melted by the rear cylinder.

    I need to rotate the engine down and change rocker cover gaskets ( however I can't do the work since I have no access to a garage and tools, just an apartment at the moment that I can't get the bike into).

    The question is: what are the chances the fan I have now would work again if I corrected the melted section? Or am I wasting my time and need to start looking for a new fan. And also I'm assuming the melting of the wires is what caused it to fail and it was working fine before; foolishly so.

    I think I know the answer but I have no experience with it so I need some reinforcement.

  2. #2
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    Just isolate the wire from touching any metal even if its melted the actual wire should still be there. Make sure the fuse is good and try it. You can do a continuity test before you start to make sure the wire does completely run through the melted part. (You need a multimeter).
    If the wire doesnt ring out you need to splice a new piece in. Use the same gauge wire or thicker not smaller. And heat shrink butt connectors. I would put a heat shrink tube over the entire connection to but it's over kill. The wire is the first step!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sdrxb12s View Post
    Just isolate the wire from touching any metal even if its melted the actual wire should still be there. Make sure the fuse is good and try it. You can do a continuity test before you start to make sure the wire does completely run through the melted part. (You need a multimeter).
    If the wire doesnt ring out you need to splice a new piece in. Use the same gauge wire or thicker not smaller. And heat shrink butt connectors. I would put a heat shrink tube over the entire connection to but it's over kill. The wire is the first step!
    I separated it from where it touched and it wouldn't come on, no surprise. So I just disabled the fan thru ECMdroid.

    I messaged a friend to see if I can take up space in his garage for a weekend or more to attempt to do the engine rotation myself. I will do the wire tests at that point. And if I'm successful with the engine rotation; I would have no problem doing it again to access the cooling fan when a replacement arrives if required.

    Side note: Is a top end gasket kit from H-D reliable? Or should I look for an alternate? Gasket kit from H-D in Canadian dollars is low $100s and available thru the dealer without any run arounds and hidden costs that internet orders from the states seem to have. Front rotor from EBR + mounting hardware cost me $574CAD total.

  4. #4
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    HD had one in stock wow that blows me away. They didnt even have 10w40 oil when I went.

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    I believe they have to order the gasket kit in. The front rotor I had to order off of Ebay from the US; I had to buy quickly since the mounting hardware they only had 1 left. Now when I go home I just stare at the disc and imagine the chatter under braking going away, hopefully.

    The bike right now is in storage at a friends so his wife won't even let people over until June to pick it up cause of the whole isolation Covid-19 thing. Weathers been **** lately anyhow up in PEI.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sdrxb12s View Post
    HD had one in stock wow that blows me away. They didnt even have 10w40 oil when I went.
    I just noticed you're from Nova Scotia. Nice!

  7. #7
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    Might want to double check that rotor. It is much more common on a Buell to have sticky hardware or uneven brake pad deposits feel exactly like a warped rotor. A good rotor/hardware cleaning and re-bedding the pads is usually the trick

  8. #8
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    It had some corrosion pitting on the rotor face as well so I decided on a new rotor instead of trying to rejuvenate the existing one. However I installed the new rotor today butnwont be able to try it out til next weekend.



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