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Thread: 05 XB9SX Crank Seal Assistance

  1. #11
    Senior Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mash199 View Post
    I certainly don't.
    A lot of the folks in this thread all recommended the same 20W50 in both holes... of the bike that is...

    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...02-Primary-oil

  2. #12
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I have used 20w-50 in the primary with a stock clutch and found it to be a bit 'grabby' and have an unpredictable slip point, but YMMV. Find what you like and use it, you won't hurt the bike

  3. #13
    Senior Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    Back to the issue of driving in that seal, I got this message from a certain dearly departed.
    Passing on these words, I'm kinda feeling the whole burning bush and clay tablet vibe here...

    "if he tries that he'll ruin a fairly expensive new seal.

    he needs to either purchase or borrow/rent the seal driver tool harley-davidson part # 45206.

    last i checked it was a bit under $20. there are aftermarket seal drivers around as well for buell/sportster Xl/XR for perhaps a bit less. the reason you cannot and should not use a socket or piece of PVC pipe is that it will distort the outer sealing surface of the seal when trying to drive it into the bore. the H-D tool has a dedicated "lip" around the circumference that perfectly matches the installation groove in the seal.

    he will NOT need the factory T-handle driver to use in conjunction with the seal installation tool. simply find or make a 1 inch long piece of steel pipe with a 1 inch ID. use that over top of the seal installation tool to drive it into its bore. you put a very light coating of very light grease on outer circumference of the seal....start it by hand....install seal driver tool over top of seal...then piece of pipe you made...then the crankshaft rotor nut...and turn the nut to drive the seal into place.

    HE SHOULD NOTE THIS: using the [other] method will destroy the seal. why? because it will drive the seal into the bore too far and the crankshaft end bearing will, in short order, eat it alive. the factory tool automatically sets the correct depth of the seal."

  4. #14
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    Definitely do as mention right above ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ as I now have found out that this is being copied and pasted on here by the above from a spiritual source !

    Im not knocking you on this, but I guess it's what you start off with, a good majority of Buellers on this forum do use the Amsoil 20/50, me included. I don't find the clutch grabby at all and this is the first I have heard something like this, though I do suppose if I did try the Harley oil I might find the Amsoil grabby.

    What I find amusing is years ago, like in the 80's maybe even the mid 70's, I started using amsoil and I told my friends to use it in their Harley's, Harley dealers told them don't it it will ruin your bike, don't ever use that sh-t, now Harley dealerships sell it themselves. I would think that if your going to go by what the Mfg says to use, you would also use only Harley branded lubes and maybe you do and as stated above, use whatever makes you feel comfortable.
    Last edited by njloco; 05-16-2020 at 02:06 PM.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by njloco View Post
    Definitely do as mention right above ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ as I now have found out that this is being copied and pasted on here by the above from a spiritual source !

    Im not knocking you on this, but I guess it's what you start off with, a good majority of Buellers on this forum do use the Amsoil 20/50, me included. I don't find the clutch grabby at all and this is the first I have heard something like this, though I do suppose if I did try the Harley oil I might find the Amsoil grabby.

    What I find amusing is years ago, like in the 80's maybe even the mid 70's, I started using amsoil and I told my friends to use it in their Harley's, Harley dealers told them don't it it will ruin your bike, don't ever use that sh-t, now Harley dealerships sell it themselves. I would think that if your going to go by what the Mfg says to use, you would also use only Harley branded lubes and maybe you do and as stated above, use whatever makes you feel comfortable.
    I appreciate the advice, and I will definitely look into it. When I say I've been using "Harley" brand fluids, I was simplifying things a bit. Lately I've been buyi g drag specialty fluid from a small local shop. The owner is a friend of mine and I want to support him when I can. If I can simplify things with one fluid, I might just do that.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endopotential View Post
    Back to the issue of driving in that seal, I got this message from a certain dearly departed.
    Passing on these words, I'm kinda feeling the whole burning bush and clay tablet vibe here...

    "if he tries that he'll ruin a fairly expensive new seal.

    he needs to either purchase or borrow/rent the seal driver tool harley-davidson part # 45206.

    last i checked it was a bit under $20. there are aftermarket seal drivers around as well for buell/sportster Xl/XR for perhaps a bit less. the reason you cannot and should not use a socket or piece of PVC pipe is that it will distort the outer sealing surface of the seal when trying to drive it into the bore. the H-D tool has a dedicated "lip" around the circumference that perfectly matches the installation groove in the seal.

    he will NOT need the factory T-handle driver to use in conjunction with the seal installation tool. simply find or make a 1 inch long piece of steel pipe with a 1 inch ID. use that over top of the seal installation tool to drive it into its bore. you put a very light coating of very light grease on outer circumference of the seal....start it by hand....install seal driver tool over top of seal...then piece of pipe you made...then the crankshaft rotor nut...and turn the nut to drive the seal into place.

    HE SHOULD NOTE THIS: using the [other] method will destroy the seal. why? because it will drive the seal into the bore too far and the crankshaft end bearing will, in short order, eat it alive. the factory tool automatically sets the correct depth of the seal."
    This is the advice I was looking for. I appreciate how thorough your response is, even if I am a little frustrated that I'll have to source ANOTHER specialty tool. I should mention that the rigid edge of this seal for some reason doesn't have a flat face like most other seals do, it has a rounded face on one side, and basically just a sharp edge with a rubber coating on the other. When I removed the old seal the sharp edge was facing out, so I've begun installing the new one the same way. I have no idea if the correct install tool will work with such a small surface area to push against. That said, I don't want to bung up the seal (if I haven't already) so I'll definitely be looking into this route.

  7. #17
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    Hey all, so I did a bit of digging and I couldn't find a place to actually buy the seal installer tool. What I did find, however, is a 3d model to print or CNC the exact part needed. Here's the link.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784320

    I've asked a friend to 3D print it for me, hopefully it'll do the trick.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Thats a great find Mash! Thingverse really does have everything, the Amazon of 3D printing LOL.

    If your friend falls through, PM me and I'll make you one. I just got a spool of Gold PLA

  9. #19
    Senior Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    Again playing messenger to the powers that be...

    the seal ONLY goes in one way. this should fix him up. tell him to watch the entire vid.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1oBs5yn-r8

  10. #20
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endopotential View Post
    Again playing messenger to the powers that be...

    Biggie Smalls? Tupac?



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