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Thread: Ulysses not starting up

  1. #1
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    Ulysses not starting up

    I've owned my 06 xb12x for about 3 years now and I have had no issues. All that I have done on the bike is routine oil and filter changes since it road great. A couple of months ago, I was on the highway and it died . I couldn't start it back up and got it towed home. I replaced the battery because it was old and had low voltage and I got power back When i turn the key, i see the lights come on, the dash swipes and i hear the fuel pump. When I turn the start button I hear the starter going, but the engine won't ignite. Since then, I've checked the relays , replaced the fuses and spark plugs. I ended up replacing the coil, because I thought the ohms were off. Apparently, I tested the coil incorrectly because after replacing it the bike still will not start up. I checked engine compression and for spark and both checked out. I hooked up my fuel pressure tester with the adapter and I'm not exactly sure how to test pressure if it isn't running, but I did see fuel going through the lines.

    I'm just lost at this point and have no idea where to look now. This is the first time that I've worked on a motorcycle like this( I used to work on my old cb 750 and kz 650 in my younger days) and its the first time that I've had to jump into it, so I'm pretty unfamiliar with it. Any suggestion in the right direction will be greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by Shibumi; 10-08-2023 at 03:03 AM. Reason: Adding additional information

  2. #2
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Sir: Think of your "no-start" situation in the following simplest terms-----If you have fuel....compression....spark....timing...the engine has no choice but to start and run. And it will. You are missing one or more of those ingredients and my money is on fuel.

    Do these 2 simplest of tests and you'll find that it will start:
    1-Remove FRONT spark plug only...reattach plug lead....ground plug to engine surface...key ON....kill switch ON...crank engine and confirm you have ignition spark. If so, proceed to step #2.

    2-Confirm 10A fuel pump fuse is good....remove outer airbox cover...remove airbox inner lid leaving IEV actuator in place and set it aside...throttle body now exposed. Trickle 1 tablespoon of fuel down the throttle body....open throttle approx. 1/3rd turn and now crank-to-start. Results?

  3. #3
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    I had already done step one ,but I'll give step 2 a go and I'll come back with results! I appreciate the guidance!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shibumi View Post
    I hooked up my fuel pressure tester with the adapter and I'm not exactly sure how to test pressure if it isn't running,
    With your fuel pressure tester still installed, turn on the key and run switch. The fuel pump will prime and you should see a solid 49psi.

    It takes quite a bit to make it stop running on the highway. I'd bet it's something simple like a corroded relay or fuse in the ignition or fuel circuit. The relays are the same so its OK to swap them around. Look for corrosion on the terminals.

    You need to determine whether its fuel or spark first so since you checked spark at the plugs, do what Barrett suggested and squirt some starting fluid or carb cleaner down the throttle body and crank. Does it at least sputter or try to start now?

    Also, be aware that continuous cranking with a no-start condition will foul those new spark plugs you put in VERY quickly. So even if you solve the problem, it still won't start being that flooded. You can crank the bike and hold the throttle slightly open, that will add a little AIR and possibly help.

  5. #5
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    @ Cooter, I had some extra fuses laying around, so I just swapped all of them since I haven't put anything new into the bike since I got it except spark plugs . So the fuses should be fine. I did check all the relays and they were all good too. I even bought one just to swap it around to see if I could find a bad one, but still no start. I think it is a fuel issue because my fuel pressure was sitting at 0( or very little) when I did it a few weeks ago. I'm going to get back into the garage tonight and drop a little bit of stuff into thr manifold and I'll come back with the results. You guys are great. Thanks!

  6. #6
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    Alright, so I just got back from my test. My fuel pressure read 5 psi when the fuel pump primed and the bike did sputter after spraying a little carb cleaner into the TB. So should I start looking at the fuel pump ? Fuel injectors? Man, this is great to actually get some progress haha.

  7. #7
    Senior Member TheWood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shibumi View Post
    Alright, so I just got back from my test. My fuel pressure read 5 psi when the fuel pump primed and the bike did sputter after spraying a little carb cleaner into the TB. So should I start looking at the fuel pump ? Fuel injectors? Man, this is great to actually get some progress haha.
    I hesitate to jump in here because you already have 2 very knowledgeable members helping you out already. But you read 5psi, and it's suppose to be 51, or as mentioned, a solid 49. So, it's probably what? Barrett's your man for a new fuel pump. Remember; If that fuel pump of yours is the original OEM, it's 17 yr.'s old now, with a lot of ethanol(hygroscopic)blended fuel ran through it.
    Last edited by TheWood; 10-09-2023 at 02:43 AM.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Well done. I'm with these guys ^^^^

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    Right, thanks a lot for the help guys. How do you guys get the rear wheel off the ground to access the pump? I don't have much space to have a crane to crank it up with straps . Are there any safe DIY hacks to get it up?

  10. #10
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Thanks for the kind words as always Bob.


    Sir: Your fuel pump, as I initially surmised, is shot.

    Youtube loaded with Buell XB fuel pump "how to" tutorials. Link below very simple concise vid on how to remove and replace. If you're inquiring how to raise bike to perform the work then I strongly suggest seeking help...an extra set of skilled hands is needed by you. Drain tank-frame outside by removing pump drain plug. The perform the work inside. Steady the front end by suitable method and raise rear with simple floor jack and suitable wood piece under muffler. Bike must be held firm and steady during this work.

    Lastly, once removed from the frame you'll quickly realize you're not capable of successfully rebuilding the pump on your own. They are tedious, complex and damn near impossible for the inexperienced to properly reassemble. Consider sending it to me for that job when the time comes. I also keep new-in-box OEM pumps and professionally rebuilt pumps in stock.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv79tJHJXMM&t=6s



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