Results 1 to 2 of 2

Thread: Buell XB fork service by NCCR

  1. #1
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    8,166

    Buell XB fork service by NCCR

    Heres how the pro's do it These guys are the best!



    One of those "black art" things until you commit and do it once. Our precious Buells are getting older and this is one of those service jobs that gets completely ignored until fork oil drains on your brakes for a year before its completely empty

    I'd highly recommend buying the spring compressor ($20) even if you think you're only doing tis job one time, instead of the scrap metal/quickclamp/tiedown I used for years but you can easily use a regular wrench instead of the "lock tool".

    The tape is a fine way to protect the new seal from damage, but IMO saran wrap or a thin zip-lock sandwich bag is easier and won't leave any adhesive residue.

    Go for it! Not too many surprises, but pay attention to setting the top cap correctly on both legs with the damper at 3.5 turns in from max out. Set the depth of the cap, then back the needle adjustment off a little before tightening the locknut so you don't jam it in place by accident.

  2. #2
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    2,233
    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Heres how the pro's do it These guys are the best!



    One of those "black art" things until you commit and do it once. Our precious Buells are getting older and this is one of those service jobs that gets completely ignored until fork oil drains on your brakes for a year before its completely empty

    I'd highly recommend buying the spring compressor ($20) even if you think you're only doing tis job one time, instead of the scrap metal/quickclamp/tiedown I used for years but you can easily use a regular wrench instead of the "lock tool".

    The tape is a fine way to protect the new seal from damage, but IMO saran wrap or a thin zip-lock sandwich bag is easier and won't leave any adhesive residue.

    Go for it! Not too many surprises, but pay attention to setting the top cap correctly on both legs with the damper at 3.5 turns in from max out. Set the depth of the cap, then back the needle adjustment off a little before tightening the locknut so you don't jam it in place by accident.

    Also, be sure to get/make a tool for removing the foot nut that holds the damper to the bottom of the slider.

    It’s basically long reach Allen socket. Or you could use a non ball end Allen key with a wrench.

    Cooter is right about getting the spring compressor. It makes the job a lot easier!

    I also use electrical tape to protect the seals from the sharp edges. I usually remove the tape before the residue becomes an issue.



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •