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Thread: Friggin exhaust stud broke!!

  1. #11
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kz6fittycent View Post
    I was riding today after changing out the brake fluid...
    OK. We can be friends

  2. #12
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    A good place to use some of that 55 gallon drum of anti-seize you have in your bedroom, Aaron.

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    I'm actually a firm believer in corn starch.


  3. #13
    Senior Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    A good place to use some of that 55 gallon drum of anti-seize you have in your bedroom, Aaron.

    Attachment 13728
    Thanks John, you're a fount of wisdom as always. All the mysteries of the universe being peeled back one at a time...

    And you sure it's anti-seize that Aaron keeps at his bedside table???

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregoXB View Post
    Get the nut off the other stud safely before you start anything. Often when one snaps, the other will snap too when taking the nut off. If both studs snap, you cannot use the Jim's exhaust stud drill plate and will have to take your engine head off and bring it to a machinist. You would need new gaskets at that point....
    Yeah that one came off easy. Everything's soaking in penetrating oil now.

    That stud is broken off about 1/16" below the surface of the exhaust mating surface/flange on the head. I'm going to see if I can get it to move with a reverse drill first, if not, then off to the races, slow and steady. I don't care if it takes me days to do it.

  5. #15
    Senior Member GregoXB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kz6fittycent View Post
    Yeah that one came off easy. Everything's soaking in penetrating oil now.

    That stud is broken off about 1/16" below the surface of the exhaust mating surface/flange on the head. I'm going to see if I can get it to move with a reverse drill first, if not, then off to the races, slow and steady. I don't care if it takes me days to do it.
    Be super careful with the reverse drill bit. If it snaps off, you will have a hardened piece of steel trapped in the stud and a machinist will be your only hope at that point.....

  6. #16
    Senior Member outthere's Avatar
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    Exhaust stud replaced, new header bolted up & Drummer installed in place of Deans. Total time around 5 hrs including watering a few potted plants here and there. Still need to change the tune to suit the Drummer. No cuss words needed.

  7. #17
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outthere View Post
    Exhaust stud replaced, new header bolted up & Drummer installed in place of Deans. Total time around 5 hrs including watering a few potted plants here and there. Still need to change the tune to suit the Drummer. No cuss words needed.
    Nice !!! Did you have to rotate the motor?

  8. #18
    Senior Member outthere's Avatar
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    I did not. Rt front stud replaced. I took a chance and used a hammer on stud remover to get the busted one out. Getting the exhaust off was easy once I removed the front engine support.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Congrats man, glad it was an easy job in capable hands. Kudos!

  10. #20
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    Ive done literally 30 or more exhaust manifold jobs on fords and chevys. The best thing ive came up with its heating the head up a little with a torch and a left hand drill bit. Sometimes you get lucky and the drillbit itself is enough to remove broken stud. If all else fails i weld a little "nipple" to broken stud and then weld a nut to said nipple. Reheat. Remove.

    Also like the guy above...anti-seize works wonders.



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