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Thread: Interactive Exhaust Actuator

  1. #11
    Thanks Gents.

    Cooter - should I go back to the hotter plug? I’ve noticed that it does take a bit to warm up with the 9s. How hard is it to change the plugs with the engine all the way up? I changed them when i rotated the engine for new rocker gaskets. Looks painful.

  2. #12
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    It's not that bad. Wrench for the front. Socket extension and wobble for back one use some gas hose to start the back one in . Probably lots of other ways to

  3. #13
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Yup ^^^^ nailed it. EZ PZ.

    I'm not saying its a bad choice of plug, lots of people run them just fine. Just saying to be aware is all

  4. #14
    Thanks for the tip Cooter. Think I should go back to hotter plugs? Iím in southern Pennsylvania and the bike does take some time to warm up. I only start it to run :-).

  5. #15
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Theres no temp gauge, how do you know it takes a long time to warm up? Air-cooled engines are very different than the water cooled variety you are used to in your car. They are designed to operate in a much larger temperature range. From below freezing (remember no water jackets to freeze) to approx 285* (I'm guessing at that figure from the ECM temp/intervention limits).

    You'll need the right viscosity (weight) of oil for drastic temps either way, but most of the Buell programming I've seen doesn't engine kill until about 270-305(!)* Your car would be long dead at those temps.

    Oil is the life/blood of any air cooled engine and any V-twin is hard on oil, so I make sure to have a high film strength 'V-twin specific' oil in the correct weight for the temps I ride in. Start it cold, give it about a minute to circulate oil and away ya go. IMO.

  6. #16
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    Hi all. I bought the Dorman actuator as the original one on my '08 Uly has been intermittently malfunctioning and a Buell replacement is NLA. How do you index the Buell bellcrank to the Dorman actuator properly before welding it on so it works like the original?

  7. #17
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    Hey cooter for the actuator could you not swap a like size motor in the actuator. I assume the circuit board tells the motor how to run in its perimeters

  8. #18
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    Can't see the pics Barrett. So, there's a flat on the shaft stem?

  9. #19
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinknocker View Post
    Can't see the pics Barrett. So, there's a flat on the shaft stem?


    here.

    You can either note the orientation by taking a picture before you remove the original or you can just make sure the flat part is parallel with the bottom edge as shown in the pic below. Some controllers have reference dots that show the home and fully extended positions as viewed through the cable hole. simplest is to be sure your old controller and new dorman replacement are in the "home" position....then make your compatible mark/marks....remove bell-crank from bad OEM controller and transfer it over. as in pic below.

    dorman unit.jpg

  10. #20
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sdrxb12s View Post
    Hey cooter for the actuator could you not swap a like size motor in the actuator. I assume the circuit board tells the motor how to run in its perimeters
    I think (*guessing) from looking at some ECM parameters that the IEV works only open/close on a limiter (not position sensitive). It's not on a variable potentiometer or stepper, but can have different "ramp up" times determined by the ECM.

    IMO, not worth the hassle. I would buy the Dorman replacement motor like John suggests.

    Actually, I'd toss the whole thing and buy a Drummer



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