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Thread: Front engine isolators

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by casual_observer View Post
    Yeah, let me know when they start repopping Notchback rear fenders.

    Glass-Action.com.

    Your welcome!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by njloco View Post
    If someone wants to offer up an old front isolator housing, I have an idea that should work and everyone can do it themselves.

    I do not, but SOMEONE HAS to have a roached out one here!

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Rhino1XL View Post
    Glass-Action.com.

    Your welcome!
    You got me on that one. I asked for unobtanium and you brought **** lasagne. Thats my fault, I should know better of what to expect from people.

    You almost seem like your proud of this disgrace, and I'm horrified that such a thing exists.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by casual_observer View Post
    You got me on that one. I asked for unobtanium and you brought **** lasagne. Thats my fault, I should know better of what to expect from people.

    You almost seem like your proud of this disgrace, and I'm horrified that such a thing exists.
    ISP West has them (Notchback rear fenders 61-69) - exactly 1 (one) left. If you needed it, better hurry. It's $450.

    That said, I think you're point is made, not everything is available - but there are enough of us to engender a small market. Even if it's just us doing it ourselves.

    I'm wanting to buy a 3d printer so I can start prototyping parts for my XB. Once I have a working model, I can send it off for CNC. Sure, that's not cheap, but if I can't find it in the first place...you see where I'm going.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by kz6fittycent View Post
    ISP West has them (Notchback rear fenders 61-69) - exactly 1 (one) left. If you needed it, better hurry. It's $450.

    That said, I think you're point is made, not everything is available - but there are enough of us to engender a small market. Even if it's just us doing it ourselves.

    I'm wanting to buy a 3d printer so I can start prototyping parts for my XB. Once I have a working model, I can send it off for CNC. Sure, that's not cheap, but if I can't find it in the first place...you see where I'm going.

    You are right, point made.

    Do some research on here and you will find the prelimary designs of a front isolator redesign, after they went disco the first time. It wound up not working out, but with some more time and refinement, you may be able to engineer something. I think the project was abandoned once the isolator came "back from the dead".

  6. #16
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    No worries Casual Observer! My heart belongs to VW’s and motorcycles. (In that order) 😁

  7. #17
    I used to be a VW fan myself and have owned many over the years. I've only owned 2 or 3 water cooled ones, but a LOT of air cooled. I especially enjoyed the Type 3's but never had a Ghia. The last time I owned an aircooled VW was back when Johnny's Speed and Chrome was still around.

  8. #18
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    A friend has an decent and mostly original Ghia in that weird Butternut color he'd love to let go of on So. Cal. His heart is in a different spot now.

  9. #19
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    I have a backup isolator in good shape and will take a look at a replaceable insert like automotive control arm bushings. Either a complete replacement or a polyurethane insert using the original shell like Energy Suspension does. How many are needed I’ll need a significant number to make a batch affordable. If I can keep the cost under $75 each who wants one or two ?

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvc View Post
    I have a backup isolator in good shape and will take a look at a replaceable insert like automotive control arm bushings. Either a complete replacement or a polyurethane insert using the original shell like Energy Suspension does. How many are needed I’ll need a significant number to make a batch affordable. If I can keep the cost under $75 each who wants one or two ?
    Thats exactly my thought as well. Probably need to stick with rubber though. I don't think you could get Polyurethane in a soft enough durometer that would last.



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