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Thread: Newer motorcycles?

  1. #31
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    205
    Yah we use salt, sand, and salt brine. I undercoat every year to stop the rustles. Makes a huge difference. The $100 and change it cost me is well worth it. My 96 Dakota looked brand new compared to a 2001 Dakota with no undercoat

  2. #32
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Central Soviet state of new jersey.
    Posts
    2,674
    You apply a rubber coating every year ? I would think that would end being a huge build up of layers ?
    The biggest problem with a rubber coating is trying to get it off once rust sets in, the area that is rusting is going to have some rubber coming out off easily and some that will not come off period.

    I'll share this bit of info I discovered, a really good easy way to fight rust is to simply spray fluid film on the new vehicle once a year. If you already have rust, then clean off the area of the loose rust, make sure there is no grease or oil on the surface then spray some ACE Hardware rust stop primer followed by some RP342 which is a waxy type coating. This will allow you to easily see any area's that become damaged and can easily reapply the coatings. The only drawback to the RP342 is that one must use gasoline or some other strong cleaner to clean it off.

    P.S. I'm going to add a piece of information that most don't know, there are only a couple of ways to stop or slow down rust. To stop rust one must keep the metal from reverting back to what it was before it was mixed in that molten mix, one way is to coat it, this is where most coatings fail because all that is needed is a pin hole for moisture and salt to get through and start it's dirty work. The other way is to use a metal mix that doesn't rust. As for coating a rusted piece of metal one needs a coating that bonds at over 2000 psi that is what rust grows at, once you apply a coating that bonds at plus 2000 psi you have stopped rust creep, unless it's some kind of epoxy you won't find those adhesion levels in most store bought coatings.

    One could also use an anode type coating, there used to be really good ones out on the commercial market but EPA restrictions brought most of t hem to an end, so now it's up to the customer to do the research to figure out the best coating for the job at hand.

    I could go on and on about this stuff, most information I have forgotten over the years.
    Last edited by njloco; 08-29-2020 at 09:25 PM.

  3. #33
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    205
    I use a non drip undercoat(not rubber) which is basically a liquid slime. You can see through it and it penetrates into rusty surfaces. You drill out the body panels in the rockers, doors, etc. And fill those as well so your protection is inside and out. Most everything stays good but the undercarriage from to many trips in the rain needs to be touched up every year. I find it a superior product over the rubber for alot of the reasons you stated. It's good at first if the person applies it well. But over time like you say it becomes a problem. Any spots I notice to be exposed as well as any hinges, latches, hood stoppers, key slots I use rust check in a spray can. ( the red label can)



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