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Thread: Front brake shudder/pulsing - DC area

  1. #1
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    Front brake shudder/pulsing - DC area

    I need to fix a front brake shudder on my 08 Ulysses.

    I'm suspicious that the Uly needs a new front rotor.
    25k miles on the bike. The brake pads have been replaced recently.

    Any recommendations for a shop in the Northern Virginia/Centreville area are appreciated.
    Normally I would do this work myself but I don't have access to a lift and shop right now.

    Thanks in advance for constructive inputs.

    pdg

  2. #2
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Sir: a small block of wood under the sidestand and simple piece of thin wood and towel on floor jack pad, placed under muffler jacking point.....will allow you to lift the front wheel off the ground and remove it for this reasonably simple job. if so, post back up and will walk you thru simple steps that in most instances, solves this problem for cheap money and elbow-grease.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Correct. What our experienced and knowledgable Barrett is referring to, is the 98% mis-diagnosed as a warped rotor being uneven brake deposits especially after a pad swap change without re-bedding the new pads. Possibly sticking hardware too. If the brake hardware is over-torqued (even ONCE) it will put a ridge on the shoulder of the bolt and make the square washer stick to it, also causing the wobble feeling. needs to be sanded down with emory cloth. Use the manual for proper procedure '08 is fine:
    https://www.buellmods.com/#TabbedContent

    I can save him the long winded description, but I would still whatever his sage advise is:
    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...l-instructions

    Or whatever, buy a rotor. If you can manage to take off your own front wheel, it's easy.

  4. #4
    Senior Member outthere's Avatar
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    Use em' hard or don't use em' at all.

    I don't have a job so I'm on my 3rd Whisky.

  5. #5
    Senior Member outthere's Avatar
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    In other words I don't have to get up in the weeee hours of the morning anymore. Just early enough to make my wife's lunch & coffee.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I can save him the long winded description, but I would still whatever his sage advise is:
    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...l-instructions
    Thanks for posting that other thread Cooter. So wondering about the protocol of 3 start/stops at 30,50,70mph-
    Ideally you could find a stretch of road to do that on, with virgin pads and rotors. Which unless you live in Amish Country, is nearly impossible to do starting from home for the rest of us.
    The nearest stretch of road for me to do that is about 25 miles away. There's a stretch of freeway riding, a handful of traffic lights, and some unavoidable braking along the way. So would the protocol above still work? Better than nothing? Or do you have to start with some freshly sanded rotors for the ideal bedding procedure to work at all?

  7. #7
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    No need to over-think it or tow you bike to a desolate area I'm in the middle of nightmare urban chaos myself and a one mile stretch without stop lights is plenty, u-turns won't affect anything.

    Yes, the rotors need to be clean and free of the old friction material. The best way is to take it off and might as well clean/check and lube the hardware (caliper lube or anti-seize).

    The point of that procedure is to run the brakes through a complete heat cycle to transfer new friction material to the rotor. From stone cold, to max temp slowly, and back to stone cold.

    The final cool down is very important! I have rushed this procedure and skipped the overnight cool down with poor results. YMMV.

    When done correctly, I have had shocking results taking wobbly, glassy, scary front brakes, to functional, gradual, dependable brakes with nothing more than a good cleaning and re-bedding. Even with old/good pads I'm a believer

    Since we are talking about heating your brakes to max temp...
    Flush your dang brake fluid! Every, single, year! A $20 vacuum pump makes it a 5 minute job, no bleeding required. I just took the blackest grossest fluid out of Bubbles Ninja before this last track day. There was even a water bubble in the front stuff and it's a 2020 she bought new, 9 month ago
    Last edited by Cooter; 09-21-2020 at 05:52 PM.

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  9. #9
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I'm printing that for the back of the garage door

    Hows the hands SR? Back to being a hand model yet?

  10. #10
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    If you only would alternate which hand you become friends with it would never have happened in the first place !


    Stevey Mac, we miss you.



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