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Thread: RH scoop info

  1. #11
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kz6fittycent View Post
    Man, I was trying to save up for a carbon fiber right side scoop to match the one I have on the left side. This made me question that choice. That said, my rides don't include much (if any) extended idle time and definitely not parading. It gets really hot in TX and I "believe" the rear cylinder would benefit from a larger r. side scoop. I've been moving along at 45 mph and can hear the cooling fan running non-stop on really hot days.
    According to this article that doesnt work. Even though it seems counterintuitive.

  2. #12
    Senior Member outthere's Avatar
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    I just might have a rs scoop 4 sale.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kz6fittycent View Post
    I've been moving along at 45 mph and can hear the cooling fan running non-stop on really hot days.
    That is simply a product of where your fan settings are, not any indication of over-heating. Is your "speed-based fan control" option on? It will activate the fan over 25mph. IMO totally unnecessary and causing major pre-mature fan wear to boot.

  4. #14
    Senior Member outthere's Avatar
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    I might just remove my fan altogether. Will this wreak havoc on anything if it's not there, electrically?

  5. #15
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    You'll just get a CEL and a code, unless you uncheck the 'fan' on the Error Mask page of ECM parameters in ECMDroid.

    But I gotta ask. Why?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    That is simply a product of where your fan settings are, not any indication of over-heating. Is your "speed-based fan control" option on? It will activate the fan over 25mph. IMO totally unnecessary and causing major pre-mature fan wear to boot.
    Well now I'm gonna check that...

  7. #17
    Senior Member outthere's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Cooter;624884]You'll just get a CEL and a code, unless you uncheck the 'fan' on the Error Mask page of ECM parameters in ECMDroid.

    But I gotta ask. Why?[/QUOTE

    The only time it comes on is when I'm coming off the track, and it's on for less than a minute. I'll take a look at the error mask and see if that's how it coded, on for 1 minute.
    My reasoning for removing it is I check header flange bolts quite a bit as these seem to need retorque all the time and taking the fan off would expedite this. Remember this bike never sees the street.


    Bad idea? Last time I used a locknut the stud broke. Torque for these studs is 15 nm.

  8. #18
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=outthere;624901]
    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    You'll just get a CEL and a code, unless you uncheck the 'fan' on the Error Mask page of ECM parameters in ECMDroid.

    But I gotta ask. Why?[/QUOTE

    The only time it comes on is when I'm coming off the track, and it's on for less than a minute. I'll take a look at the error mask and see if that's how it coded, on for 1 minute.
    My reasoning for removing it is I check header flange bolts quite a bit as these seem to need retorque all the time and taking the fan off would expedite this. Remember this bike never sees the street.


    Bad idea? Last time I used a locknut the stud broke. Torque for these studs is 15 nm.
    But when you shut down and the motor is doing a hot soak, the fan will help keep airflow moving across the cylinders/head and prevent oil coking and premature breakdown at very least.

    On my XB's the fan only came on when it was running really hot (aka summer in AZ) or during shutdown.

  9. #19
    Senior Member outthere's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'll look at error mask.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Are you positive its not coming on while blasting around a race track? Can you even hear it? It's your bike, but IMO a bad idea.

    Alternatively:
    Use these https://www.stage8.com/product/re-se...eader-nut-kit/

    You might have to change the studs to use those, or the same company makes bolts too, and that makes header R&R massively easier.

    Or, safety wire them, or use a stover lock-nut. I wouldn't blame the lock nut for breaking a stud if torque spec is only 15Nm. Sounds like the stud was compromised to begin with.

    Either way, the constant loosening and re-torquing will fatigue the nuts, studs, and the thread in the cylinder head as well. You're asking for trouble.


    Last edited by Cooter; 10-16-2020 at 06:35 PM.

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