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Junior Member
The extra ground wire from the terminal I did this morning before church and while it did help the lights appear brighter and reduce resistance it was the same result.
I have jumper cables so I can definitely just ground them to an extreme amount with those as well. No harm in trying! Bike is partly disassembled now though as I meter everything and reworking over all the connections.
THANKS for the idea!
Ya - that is an intense lifestyle for sure lol
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Senior Member
Also, are you sure the coil has the connector engaged all the way. I’ve owned a few XB’s and more than a few have had the coil connector compromised... or the wires are getting flakey.
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Junior Member
Did some more metering with the ignition ON at the TPS to check voltage and this is what I got:
Common to Constant at the harness unplugged was 5V which is correct.
Then I plugged in the harness too the actual TPS with the ignition ON and Back probed:
Common to Constant was 5V so it's good there
Then...
Common to Signal wire (Green) was 0.81V (closed throttle) then 4.59V (WOT)
So it moves with throttle input, but is that the right amount or should it go to full 5V?
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Junior Member
Wires metered good at 6K ohms but the one wire was missing it's securing outer clip so I crimped smaller and it snugged on just fine. Using di-electric on plugs and wires on both ends. I can probably borrow a set of wires from a HD friend to try though.
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A 2007 (DDFI-2) has a Cam sensor.
The test light trick is for you to see if it's a clean, rhythmic, signal to each plug (potato potato) or an erratic signal that could be caused by a bad Cam sensor or bad wiring. You can also check the same thing on the low voltage side with a LED only test light on the coils primary plug (3 wire plug). A regular incandescent test light will ground through the light bulb and stop the coil from firing
If your TPS is reading 4.8-5.5* at idle and 85* at WOT with a smooth consistent reading as you turn the throttle to max, thats the test, and it passes.
Pushing down on the TB won't cause a leak, but easy to check anyway and you want to know. Yes, an intake leak would make it run lean, but the problem may be the ECM overcompensating because it's never had enough running time to adjust?
Whats your AFV?
I'm still thinking it's something simple, not ECM or fuel tune related, thank YOU for not jumping to that conclusion and adding another variable.
You did rocker box gaskets only? You didn't do anything camshaft/rocker arm/head related? Re-assembling them you need to slightly torque and wait for the lifters to bleed down, otherwise bent pushrods happen.
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Junior Member
Thanks for the explanation and TPS affirmation!
The AFV for F/R were both 98.3% when live logging.
Ya, it's gotta be something silly. I'm even thinking - "Was it flooded then I put in new plugs and fouled them because I didn't clear the cylinders first?"
I did both rocker covers and the rear rocker box. I backed them off slowly and evenly although it wasn't at TDC. My intake rocker arm upon re-assembly was loose against pushrod and valve so I pulled the pushrod and it was straight. Guessing the lifter just bled down when I removed it??? It chatter at first when starting it, but it's quieted down a lot as it's slowly pumped back up it seems.
Both plugs were black and if I DID have an issue on the rear intake side I don't think it would manifest itself this way. I have a video of the tach and it running recently - let me try to upload that too.
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Junior Member
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Junior Member
I think I figured it out tonight!!
Intake Seals
Had it running doing its normal surge and rich idle pulsing between Idle and Open Loop then started to spray CRC QD Electronic Cleaner (out of Brake Cleaner) all around then got a nice squirt on the bottom front cylinder and instantly killed it. YES!
Going to try to start it again tomorrow let it idle some and spray that front area again same spot to confirm and will follow-up. Trying not to get TOO excited, but praying this it
Thanks so much for all the insight! Really great/supportive forum!! 😁
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Senior Member
Not to knock you, because it’s awesome you figured it out and shared the solution.
But why go through all the hassle to rotate and not replace the seals? They’re cheap and really easy to replace when the motor is rotated.
Either way, thanks for being awesome and bringing us along for the story. I’m curious to hear how it shakes out when you replace the seals.
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Junior Member
I don't take offense to that at all and you're right. I tried to leave what was fine alone. I guess I didn't realize they were so prone to failure and a maintenance item more than a "only replace when needed" as I thought. Plus my James Gasket kit didn't come with them and I thought they would so that's my mistake.
Not there yet - I'll try again today and verify it's it for sure.
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