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Thread: My first Buell big problems pls help

  1. #31
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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  2. #32
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    And felt mean. Sorry bro

  3. #33
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    And felt mean. Sorry bro
    Ha! Its just my reality. RedBuell (tm) is almost back together. woot woot!

    Hopefully my S1 cases will be on their way back from Hammer to me.

    Meth bike is just meth bike (but with new pretty black parts). mike lowary is my drug dealer. Damn him.
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 01-25-2021 at 10:39 PM.

  4. #34
    Hey gang, so itís looking like Iím going to be ordering a 1050 kit from Hammer Performance. The issues with the spark plugs seem to be that the previous owner stripped the spark plug holes by possibly forcing them on without the threads lining up or maybe wrong size spark plug, who knows, could have happened when I removed them because there was so much gunk and buildup on the threads. Anyway Iíve RTFM (had a girlfriend who works at local university professionally print and make a booklet for $20!) and I canít seem to find where it explains purging the fuel when the bike wonít run. Anyone know where I can find this info or can explain the process to me? Plan is to take old heads off myself and prep the bike to save a little cash and take it to my local shop for the install and exhaust and tune/dyno. So correct me if Iím wrong but Iím going to purge fluids, remove frame, and rotate engine, removing top end. Also, would most say the Buelltooth is the way to go? Thanks,
    Fielding

  5. #35
    Hi Barrett, thanks for the reply but my engine wonít run (no spark plugs) so I canít proceed with step 5, any way to bypass this?

  6. #36
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    When you disconnect the fuel line from the rail as Barrett described, it will “purge” itself.

    I would highly recommend taking the extra steps to pull the frame off the engine to make removing/installing the heads much easier as well as the 1050 kit. I’d also recommend spending a little extra to get hammer to do a “competition valve job” especially if your motor has a fair amount of miles on it.

  7. #37
    Awesome, thanks 34nineteen. Yea I plan on removing the frame just waiting on my rear stand to arrive. Thanks for the heads up on the competition valve job, will for sure enquire about it since the bike has almost 30k miles

  8. #38
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    For Sale:
    Buell project. Been sitting for years, lots of new parts, 1050 kit, no time to finish. My loss your gain, don't low-ball me, I know what I have!




    I'm here to help, I hope you prove me wrong

  9. #39
    Hey cooter, any way to pm on here? Very interested in what ya have to offer, or if you want to email me details that would be awesome afb8686@alum.uncw.edu

    ...or are you being facetious
    Last edited by Fielding05xb9sx; 02-28-2021 at 07:05 PM.

  10. #40
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    I use a solid steel round bar supported by a jack stand on either side. It’s pretty stable and you can adjust the height with the jackstands.

    I also use a curated selection of the finest 2x4’s, 1x4 and other smaller flat wood trim pieces under the motor (with the muffler and mounts removed) along with a Craftsman motorcycle jack. The first time setting it up is a bit tricky, but once you get it figured out, it’s pretty easy.




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