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Thread: Stator Replacement - Tools required.

  1. #1
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    Stator Replacement - Tools required.

    I have a 2009 Blast with 4k original miles.
    The stator appears to be DOA.

    It isn't grounded out but it only produces about 5v AC, and then jumps around to 20v randomly. (while testing with what sounds like 2k rpm. *Using my ear based on that's the RPM auto-enrichment runs it at during cold start)

    When I look at other Harley engines, you don't have to perform some of the steps mentioned in the manual when pulling off the entire primary assembly as a whole.

    Can someone please let me know the socket sizes for the 2 main nuts holding the primary assembly and if the replacement steps are pretty much the same for a Sportster engine?

    *Remove the frame cover, foot peg, shift lever
    *Remove the tensionser
    *Remove the cover
    *Remove the two nuts (using a sprocket stop)
    *Slide off the primary assembly
    *Remove the stator bolts + wire retention cover
    *Replace the stator, seal the hole
    *Reverse above (Loctite the nuts)

    And I figure, it does follow the same left hand\right hand threading for other Harley engines.

    Thank you!
    Last edited by TheExBx; 01-25-2021 at 11:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Sir: as you mentioned, procedures...torque values...L&R hand thread scenario very similar
    1-engine crankshaft end right hand threads
    2-trans input shaft left hand threads
    3-nut sizes are 1-1/8th inch....1-3/16th inch. double CHECK but believe that's correct.
    4-the sprocket/rotor attachment to engine crankshaft end is very tight tolerance fit. the rotor magnets are very strong. the combination of both makes it a bitch, in most cases, to remove same. either access puller OR you absolutely must pry from both sides of the assembly SIMULTANEOUSLY and EQUALLY to force it off the shaft.
    5-history indicates that if the alternator assembly(what you're calling the stator) has failed, the voltage regulator isn't far behind. prepare accordingly.
    6-TSB number TT-211 simultaneously issued by BMC/H-D on engine crankshaft nut. either check online or with local dealer to see if it's P3 model applicable. betting it is.

    and here's the best i've found online for the P3.
    you're welcome.

    http://www.craigerson.com/buell-blast-service-manual/

  3. #3
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    Thank you Barrett!
    Yeah I figured I'd go ahead and do the spark plug, stator, and voltage regulator while I'm at it.

    I own a puller that I used for removing a harmonic balancer and was figuring I might could make that work for this application. (I'll check out the TSB)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    the alternator assembly(what you're calling the stator)
    I just wanted to clarify this part. An "alternator" is an assembly of the stator, rotor, rectifier, and regulator. In regards to motorcycles, we refer to these individual components because they are tested and replaced separate from each other and are rarely packaged in an assembly or as an "alternator." Buell's, and most modern motorcycles, do not have an alternator [assembly].

    The OP's usage of the term "stator" is correct, in that the coil windings (the stator) are what often go bad, get tested, and are replaced.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheExBx View Post
    Thank you Barrett!
    Yeah I figured I'd go ahead and do the spark plug, stator, and voltage regulator while I'm at it.

    I own a puller that I used for removing a harmonic balancer and was figuring I might could make that work for this application. (I'll check out the TSB)


    my pleasure sir. below are the appropriate part numbers when you go shopping for your P3 parts. i checked the supply chain for you and many of each number still available thru authorized dealers. list price is very reasonable on each.
    if you refer to the link below and my name on the 1st page, i mentioned the TSB TT-211 that some board members had questions about. a friend with access to info at the Pilgrim Road Powertrain Plant in Menomonee Falls confirmed that the TSB does NOT apply to the P3 model. torque both nuts to spec with companion locker adhesive as per the SM link i sent to you.

    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...-with-less-rpm


    P3 stator assembly part # 29967-89C...fits all P3 blast and tube frame models...original list is $122.85
    P3 voltage regulator part # Y0302.T....fits all P3 blast models...original list is $37.49

    NOTE: the Delve outfit also substantially contributed to P3 design and powertrain development for this little tike. short but interesting read below that you might find interesting.

    https://www.delve.com/work/blast


    and one more read which is my personal favorite and should keep you occupied for awhile. Jason Bagnall is an outstanding author of anything IC related. think you'll enjoy it for it's depth and extremely accurate content, plus the fact that he deservedly hammers away at air-conditioning guru Keith Wandell, who became the death-knell for BMC. i hate him.

    https://www.hotcars.com/the-real-sto...cles-15-facts/
    Last edited by Barrett; 01-27-2021 at 09:52 AM.

  6. #6
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    *EDIT: Figured this one out, corrosion on the ignition diode in the fuse box. Cleaned the points, good to go. Leaving my original question in case someone has the same issue.

    And another thank you!

    Hey I have one more issue and it's sort of strange.

    All of this occurs while in neutral.
    The motorcycle will not start unless both the kickstand is up and the clutch lever is held in.
    Also, once running the engine will shut off if the kickstand is lowered.

    That should mean that the kickstand switch is working.
    As well, the clutch lever switch is working because with the kickstand up, clutch out, the ignition button will not activate the starter.

    So what's left?
    The neutral light in the gauge is lit.
    Last edited by TheExBx; 01-27-2021 at 10:29 PM.

  7. #7
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    And the beast is back in full force.
    I went ahead and did a full service simply due to the age.
    -Oil & Filter
    -Voltage Regulator
    -Stator
    -Spark Plug
    -Battery
    -Fuses

    Putting the primary assembly back on was... fun.
    The stator side wants to draw it in before the clutch side causing the chain to bind and misalign the sprocket on the other end.

    *Tip: Get the clutch pack side splines aligned 1st, then bring the stator side in. It will save you 10 minutes.

    Other than that, the only other tricky part is getting the 3 nuts back on the foot support. (I had to fish out 1 nut after dropping it inside the tail)

    Here's a picture of the totally burnt up stator. 1 wire terminal completely melted \ disconnected and several coil windings loose.
    https://imgur.com/NQqzsdx

  8. #8
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    1 last question, I didn't take a close up picture before I removed the seat.
    Is this the normal amount of spacing between the seat + fuel tank? (Looks a bit much but IDK for sure)

    https://imgur.com/IDGq1vN

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    Sir: as you mentioned, procedures...torque values...L&R hand thread scenario very similar
    1-engine crankshaft end right hand threads
    2-trans input shaft left hand threads
    3-nut sizes are 1-1/8th inch....1-3/16th inch. double CHECK but believe that's correct.
    4-the sprocket/rotor attachment to engine crankshaft end is very tight tolerance fit. the rotor magnets are very strong. the combination of both makes it a bitch, in most cases, to remove same. either access puller OR you absolutely must pry from both sides of the assembly SIMULTANEOUSLY and EQUALLY to force it off the shaft.
    5-history indicates that if the alternator assembly(what you're calling the stator) has failed, the voltage regulator isn't far behind. prepare accordingly.
    6-TSB number TT-211 simultaneously issued by BMC/H-D on engine crankshaft nut. either check online or with local dealer to see if it's P3 model applicable. betting it is.

    and here's the best i've found online for the P3.
    you're welcome.

    http://www.craigerson.com/buell-blast-service-manual/
    To confirm, yes the socket sizes were spot on for the Buell Blast primary. 1 1/8" and 1 3/16"
    As for a sprocket stop, I used a hefty allen wrench. No need to purchase a special tool unless you plan to repair these engines on a regular basis.

    I applied targeted heat using a handheld propane torch about 6 inches back directly on the crank sprocket nut to break the bite of the red thread locker, 30 seconds in a circular motion was plenty.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Lots of great info on this thread, thank you for posting details OP, and of course Barrett with the solid help (as usual)

    My trick for that murderous triad of 9/16" nuts that hold the foot supports, is to use a 9/16" universal joint socket (one unit, specialty socket set) on a 6" extension from the other side of the bike. I got pretty fast at it because you have to pull them for seemingly EVERY stinking job on the Blast.



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