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Thread: Pandoras box..or throttle.

  1. #31
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    The chart in the manual is a "guideline" to set for your approximate weight (geared up), and has no provision for your preference, riding style, or wear.

    Check out Dave Moss on YouTube to show you how to set it up closer. But YOU are the final judge of what you like.

    VERY basic guidelines are, Set sag (your weight) then jounce it in the center and get both ends to match speed up and down. Once they are equal, that speed of compression and rebound are dictated by your riding style.

  2. #32
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJmann View Post
    So this morning I decided to reset my suspension settings. I never touched them when I got the bike. Well according to the manual I would guess they were set for a rider weight around 225. With gear I am topping 150lbs. I got on the bike and was rocking it and noticed the front feels EXTREMELY soft. Preload prior was 3 lines, I have it set to 6 lines now. Is this normal for xb's? I haven't rode it with these settings because well no throttle yet. It's supposed to arrive today (fingers crossed). The rear feels a bit stiff, preload 2. I don't have a spare hand to measure sag right now. But just wanted some feedback so I don't feel crazy.
    There are also alternative recommended settings for someone who wants a firmer or softer ride. Like the Coots said, they are just a baseline. IMO Buells are properly sprung for the average American sized rider. I've found that most Japanese bikes are sprung for much lighter riders and I've always had to re-spring them for my 200lbs of love machine.

    To wit, if you watch some of the Dave Moss videos where he is working at a track day, most of the people he works with, he recommends heavier springs pretty much every time (when they are on a Honyamakawazuki).
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 03-25-2021 at 04:06 PM.

  3. #33
    I have watched that video a few times, hence needing an additional hand or 2. I'm starting to question if my forks are in need of rebuild / oil change. I also noticed some wetness to the rear shock rod... was more or less curious if riders here had a soft ish front end/ normal. This is my first street bike, and was surprised but the plushness. It concerns me of the rear end getting loose under moderate braking. But I will be able to tell more after my throttle comes in so I can go beat it around a bit.

  4. #34
    Thanks for the feedback back coot / 34:19! Owe you guys a drink!

  5. #35
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJmann View Post
    I have watched that video a few times, hence needing an additional hand or 2. I'm starting to question if my forks are in need of rebuild / oil change. I also noticed some wetness to the rear shock rod... was more or less curious if riders here had a soft ish front end/ normal. This is my first street bike, and was surprised but the plushness. It concerns me of the rear end getting loose under moderate braking. But I will be able to tell more after my throttle comes in so I can go beat it around a bit.
    If its like any of the bikes I buy, the fork oil is always the same exact same stuff that it left the factory with. At the very least, just pull the fork legs, unscrew the fork caps (but leave in place) and pour the old oil out, then refill. I would recommend picking up 2 clear containers that hold at least 16oz so you can measure, examine and know how much to replace. Bear in mind, this only works if the amounts removed from the two fork legs is the same. Usually the side to leak first is the brake side, so if the fluid levels are uneven, you know that one side has been leaking and you should dive in deeper. Usually the forks hold about 12-14oz of fluid. I use the HD fluid, as its usually whats still in the forks. Mixing fluid brands can cause issues, so sticking to the HD stuff helps minimize that chance. Plus its relatively inexpensive and sold in pint containers, so you will need 2.

    I always pull mine apart, but on some of the bikes that I've just done a quick flip on, the above technique works OK. Coincidentally, I have two sets of forks taken apart in my garage at the moment.

  6. #36
    Much appreciated! Looks like I will be doing that. And is that all you have taken apart in your garage right now?

  7. #37
    Senior Member outthere's Avatar
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    IMO fork oil is fork oil. I have always mixed brands. Same with engine oil. Never an issue. I suppose there's always a first.

  8. #38
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    i AGREE ABOUT FORK OIL BEING FORK OIL, BUT NO POINT IS RISKING AN ISSUE IF YOU DONT HAVE TO. THE HD STUFF IS PRETTY INEXPENSIVE, AND WILL LIKELY HAVE TO LIVE IN THERE FOR ANOTHER 15 YEARS.

    uNLESS i HAD A FEELING THE OLD OIL WAS ANOTHER BRAND (LIKE IF IT WAS BLUE OR SOMETHING), THEN WHO THE HELL KNOWS.

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  10. #40
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJmann View Post
    Much appreciated! Looks like I will be doing that. And is that all you have taken apart in your garage right now?
    rIGHT NOW I HAVE:

    oNE xb SANS MOTOR AND FORKS.
    2 SETS OF FORKS (DISASSEMBLED) ONE SET IS BENT THOUGH.
    2 SWINGARMS
    2 sETS OF WHEELS
    3 dISASSEMBLED XB MOTORS
    AND BOXES OF RANDO PARTS TO PUT THE XB BACK TOGETHER.

    AND

    a 97 s1 SANS MOTOR
    a 1275 s1 MOTOR WITH REBUILT PARTS BUT DISASSEMBLED
    x1 sWINGARM
    a BUNCH OF RANDOM s1 PARTS AS WELL.

    fOR SOME REASON I KEEP FINDING PLASTIC TOY SCORPIONS AND EMPTY BEER CANS IN MY PARTS BOXES.



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