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Thread: Update your XB's handlebar controls!

  1. #1
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Update your XB's handlebar controls!

    Hello boys and girls! Stinky Whizzleteets here to show you how to update the old, small switches in your handlebar controls to a much more modern look and feel! This was so easy, I would recommend the upgrade even if you simply have a starter button corrosion issue or something.



    Left side:
    This was literally plug n' play. I picked up a used left switch assembly from e-bay for a EBR 1190 ($35) and it screwed on and plugged in perfectly.

    Right side, you have 2 choices:
    1) Use the plug n play EBR run/stop housing. It bolts on and plugs in. But that switch housing does not hold the throttle tube like the stock XB does, so you need to also install the separate EBR throttle housing ($25), and EBR throttle cables ($110) and attach to your XB throttle body. It does work this way, but I prefer the all inclusive/ single housing look for this bike.

    2) Use a single housing that matches the switches on the left side but also will house the throttle cables and tube. But where do I get that? Kawasaki. I know for sure the Versys 650 and the Ninja 400 have one that works, but cruising through the dealership, most Kawis that have this single unit housing look the same. I wouldn't be surprised if they all were the same part number but there is one issue:


    It does bolt directly on, the throttle cables are a match and even the throttle tube is the same diameter, but it's not quite plug n play.

    Don't fret! Cooter is here to save you from the evil electron confusion.

    You could cut off the Buell switch plug and butt connector to the end of the Kawi harness (instructions are coming) but if you want to do it super clean...

    Go to this awesome guys website and spend $8:
    http://www.cycleterminal.com/amp-multilock-070.html
    to order one of these AMP 070 multilock connectors (part number 174922-2). It comes with enough terminals, but for $3 you should get at least 2 in case you screw something up
    and you will also need (2) male spade connectors .110 size. He has 480pc kits with covers for about $5 but they are pretty universal to find in a hardware store.

    Last edited by Cooter; 04-08-2021 at 04:35 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    The Buell switch has 4 terminals. Remove it and unplug it from the harness.
    The Kawasaki switch has 6 terminals because the leads for the brake light switch are included and ran cleanly in the single wiring sleeve instead of separately like Buell does. They pop out of the Kawi housing on a short pigtail and have the correct connectors for the Buell switch.

    You can either leave the brake light wiring completely alone, and ignore the 2 black wires in the Kawi plug...
    or go ahead and unplug the 2 stock wires from the stop light switch right under the brake lever pivot, and pull them through into the wiring area behind the windscreen

    Now you have the open 4 terminal plug and 2 open .110 female spades for the brake light switch. 6 total, just like the Kawi plug. See? I told you this was easy.
    Now chop off the green Kawi plug.

    You will have:
    (2) Black wires, these are for the brake light switch, direction doesn't matter, thats why they are both black, put on the .110 male spades and plug them into the stock Buell female spades you just pulled off the switch.
    (2) Black wires with a red stripe. These are for the starter button. Again, the direction doesn't matter so put them in the #1 and #2 spot in the new Buell plug, or butt connector to the red striped Buell wires (Black/Red and White/Red) in the old plug.
    (1) red and (1) Yellow/Red stripe left for the Run switch! and you guessed it. Direction doesn't matter here either. Plug them in the remaining holes (#3 and #4) or butt connector to the Grey and White/Black on the Buell plug you chopped off your old switch.
    Buell AMP terminals crimped on the Kawi leads:

    See the terminal numbers on the plug, thats where the Kawi wires go:

    * The female connector on the Buell wire harness side has different colors going into it (A freaking pet PEEVE of mine) so don't look at it, it will only confuse.
    Now test your handiwork!
    Make sure the run switch is off and turn the ignition on. Check the brake light operation.

    WITHOUT turning on the run switch, press the starter button. Nothing should happen. IF you hear the fuel pump prime, you have reversed the (#1 and #2) and the (#3 and #4) wire pairs. Keep those pairs together and switch them in the plug socket to the other side.

    If nothing happened when you pressed the starter button, it's ok check your neutral light, turn on the run switch (fuel pump should prime), hit the starter, and wheelie the **** out of your new rad ride.
    Last edited by Cooter; 04-08-2021 at 04:20 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    To paraphrase and simplify:
    Green Kawi Plug:
    black wires to Buell stop switch wire ends
    black wires/red stripe to Buell black/red, white/red on Buell plug (switch side)
    Red and yellow/red to Buell Grey and White/black on Buell plug (switch side)

    You can even just look at where they go inside the Buell housing if you get confused.


    And the Kawi one:

    Last edited by Cooter; 04-08-2021 at 04:18 AM.

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    Nice write up! Added to my list of mods when it gets hot this summer. I've been wanting to do a deep dive on my wiring since the PO appears to have modified somethings with suspect quality, and the controls have always felt cheap to me on this bike...

  5. #5
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Thanks! It seems trivial, but it totally makes a difference on how you interface with the bike. Especially if you have something newer in the garage that you also ride. The old switches CLICK! Crunch! and the new stuff is a big, cushy, positive lock. They just feel... better.

    I used to think the e-bay $30 levers were the same, thinking that (fittment issues aside) its a billet part? what could be so different? But ya, squeeze some CRG's or ASV's and you know right away what the difference is.

    Getting on this bike is totally my happy place, why not make it perfect?

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    Good write up !
    Thanks.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Thanks NJ! It was super easy. I hope it was clear Electrons seem to mystify some folks.

  8. #8
    Senior Member AC_Schnitzel's Avatar
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    Does it matter which year the kawi switch/throttle housing comes from?

  9. #9
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Not terribly specific, but not 1976. If it look like the one you want (the one in the pic) your GTG. They have used it for many years on many different bikes. I don't know the cut off and it really doesn't matter as long as it looks right (like the pic).

  10. #10
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Not terribly specific, but not 1976. If it look like the one you want (the one in the pic) your GTG. They have used it for many years on many different bikes. I don't know the cut off and it really doesn't matter as long as it looks right (like the pic).
    You really need to do a better write up on this process. It’s like reading some Facebook blathering.



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