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Thread: Error Code 34 Byte 7 Bit 6 IAC position too low

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    First off. THANK YOU for the wall of text. It is THAT information that lets strangers on the internet actually answer your questions will a better degree of accuracy! You know because you read those other worthless threads. "Help!! My bike won't start!" Whats spark? LOL.

    Barrett is 100% correct about the idle raising being normal (in gear, when the clutch is let out). I'll have that issue at stop lights if I just 2-finger the clutch and don't pull it back all the way.

    I wouldn't worry about the neutral switch. If the dash light is working correctly, IT is working correctly.
    Error code 34 is all inclusive of IAC position low, position high, and circuit issues as well. I'd look there.
    First by triple checking the connection, the pins in the plug, the pins on the IAC, follow the wiring back to the ECM. If that all looks good, check them individually for continuity while moving the harness around.
    If that all checks out, possibly the pintle got pushed in and jammed when cleaning it? Carefully try and move the pintle to see if it's jammed.

    If that all checks out (I'm not much for guessing and throwing parts at it), I'd cheat and swap a IAC on it. There really isn't anything else in the circuit to send that code?

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    New neutral switch is working properly. Now the pintle is the shiny metal head that sits down into the chamber correct? I did not move that at all. Just wiped it down very gently didnt know if there was anything fragile in it. Just dipped some qtips in brake cleaner and cleaned out chamber which was pretty clean and wiped IAC unit itself. Now the plastic sleeve was moving and i can tell that was spring loaded so that was working properly. But the pintle i didnt not really touch. So possible that may be stuck. I shouldnt be able to move that around freely then. (noted) That's what I was thinking is buying another one and throwing it in there and seeing if it works. Ok so my understanding of the IAC is that the pintle moves up and down depending on air conditions/throttle. So with the error code saying IAC position too low means it is down too low and possible stuck or extends too far. Or there is something wrong with wiring somewhere and is causing a misread. I will start checking all these things that everyone has told me. Printing them out to add to a check list. Thank you so far for everyone that has responded.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    ) That's what I was thinking is buying another one and throwing it in there and seeing if it works. Ok so my understanding of the IAC is that the pintle moves up and down depending on air conditions/throttle. So with the error code saying IAC position too low means it is down too low and possible stuck or extends too far. Or there is something wrong with wiring somewhere and is causing a misread.

    Sir: i believe you're losing site of the info i posted up for you, when you commenced this thread. your "understanding" above is both correct and incorrect. let me reiterate:

    1-fault code #34 and active/intermittent CEL is limited to one specific thing: the ECM seeing values related to the Idle Air Control(IAC) circuitry or component that it doesn't like. has absolutely no relationship with piston(pintle) extension length into the TB port. AGAIN....this code specifically shows either values too high....values too low....failed IAC. that's it.
    2-you can source a new replacement IAC unit and see if that resolves it....OR....follow my prior instructions before throwing parts at it. AGAIN.....a failing/cracked ECM or failing fuel injector can also cause these specific problems.
    3-check rear cylinder EFI injector wire shorting to ground. purportedly addressed a "rub thru" situation during the 2006 model year, but not impossible for it to appear in later model years.

    IAC factory part # P0282.5AA
    i had a handful of NIB in stock, but all gone now. a few left in dealer parts system. perhaps a few available online.
    you really need to take a serious look at your ECM and specifically, what i initially mentioned.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    ) That's what I was thinking is buying another one and throwing it in there and seeing if it works. Ok so my understanding of the IAC is that the pintle moves up and down depending on air conditions/throttle. So with the error code saying IAC position too low means it is down too low and possible stuck or extends too far. Or there is something wrong with wiring somewhere and is causing a misread.

    Sir: i believe you're losing site of the info i posted up for you, when you commenced this thread. your "understanding" above is both correct and incorrect. let me reiterate:

    1-fault code #34 and active/intermittent CEL is limited to one specific thing: the ECM seeing values related to the Idle Air Control(IAC) circuitry or component that it doesn't like. has absolutely no relationship with piston(pintle) extension length into the TB port. AGAIN....this code specifically shows either values too high....values too low....failed IAC. that's it.
    2-you can source a new replacement IAC unit and see if that resolves it....OR....follow my prior instructions before throwing parts at it. AGAIN.....a failing/cracked ECM or failing fuel injector can also cause these specific problems.
    3-check rear cylinder EFI injector wire shorting to ground. purportedly addressed a "rub thru" situation during the 2006 model year, but not impossible for it to appear in later model years.

    IAC factory part # P0282.5AA
    i had a handful of NIB in stock, but all gone now. a few left in dealer parts system. perhaps a few available online.
    you really need to take a serious look at your ECM and specifically, what i initially mentioned.
    Oh no I understand what you explained. Im going to inspect every plug and wire to make sure everything is ok. I dont want to just be blindly throwing parts at it and hope something sticks. I havent even owned the bike for a month yet, I dont want to be spending extra money on obsolete parts that may not fix the problem.

    Speaking of wiring/harnesses. Which could be leading me to the right area that you were explaining from earlier. I put old neutral switch in (yesterday 5/11/21) just to see what it would do(this is the only physical thing that i changed on bike right before light came on). Let it idle and come to operating temperature and no check engine light. Turned it off, ran diagnostic no codes. But it idled at around 1300-1400 like i explained before. Clutch in and it drops to 1050-1100, let go it goes back up to 1300-1400. So old switch is def dead. But that switch should connect the whole bike together right? (its part of the whole electronic eco system that makes it work correctly) That neutral switch is a ground for something then and with it being dead it did not complete something so it did not throw a code correct? (possibly hiding problem) So putting a new working one in connected the circuit which allowed the computer to read correctly which then shows the code 34. Which brings me back to before when I asked if the ECU is "relearning" (which ive read can take like 60-70 miles). Is it a possibility that maybe since idle with the dead switch went up alittle bit the ECU relearned that as "new normal" and the new switch brought it back to "real normal" and ECU is thinking something is wrong and has to relearn? Im sorry if you think this is deviating from everything you said, im just going by what is happening with my experience.

    OR

    The new switch completed whatever circuit it is apart of which makes the electronic eco system complete which was hiding code since it was not working properly and finally revealed code which means there is a problem somewhere with the IAC wiring/harness unit whatever could be wrong in that area of concern. Which brings us back to what you were explaining before. These will be my steps going foward. Inspecting all wires/harnesses/plugs etc. Im going to put new switch back in, perform a TPS reset and see if that brings ECU back to "normal" and see if it still throws code. I never road bike with engine light on so I dont know how its going to act so I will test that with a test ride locally so I dont get possibly stranded. (Again going back to the ECU "relearning") Anything wrong with IAC/wires/harness should cause bike to run erratically correct? Again im not putting off what your saying this is all a testing and understanding process for me right now. Just trying to take any and all info and put it all together for a plan/checklist.

    Test drive with old dead switch bike ran fine besides alittle higher idle, did not notice anything alarming which kind of makes me think nothing is really wrong. Im assuming that if anything was wrong with injectors, IAC, wires, harnesses ETC. or anything that has to deal with that code bike would not perform right no matter what correct? I cant really believe that the bikes electronic eco system would rely on a small neutral switch (like you said before the ECU doesnt give a ****e whether the switch is new or working or whatever) to work correctly or else i just stumbled on a way to bypass the ecu and have bike run as it should no matter whats wrong with it. (I know not the case)

    Ok so that is my update as of Tuesday 5/11/21. Will update when I figure out more. Thank you.

    https://youtu.be/i5GwWlEn2WU Video of the idle with old dead plug in. Bike was running for about 15 minutes to see if it would throw code.

  4. #14
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CC83 View Post
    Oh no I understand what you explained. Im going to inspect every plug and wire to make sure everything is ok. I dont want to just be blindly throwing parts at it and hope something sticks. I havent even owned the bike for a month yet, I dont want to be spending extra money on obsolete parts that may not fix the problem.

    Speaking of wiring/harnesses. Which could be leading me to the right area that you were explaining from earlier. I put old neutral switch in (yesterday 5/11/21) just to see what it would do(this is the only physical thing that i changed on bike right before light came on). Let it idle and come to operating temperature and no check engine light. Turned it off, ran diagnostic no codes. But it idled at around 1300-1400 like i explained before. Clutch in and it drops to 1050-1100, let go it goes back up to 1300-1400. So old switch is def dead. But that switch should connect the whole bike together right? (its part of the whole electronic eco system that makes it work correctly) That neutral switch is a ground for something then and with it being dead it did not complete something so it did not throw a code correct? (possibly hiding problem) So putting a new working one in connected the circuit which allowed the computer to read correctly which then shows the code 34. Which brings me back to before when I asked if the ECU is "relearning" (which ive read can take like 60-70 miles). Is it a possibility that maybe since idle with the dead switch went up alittle bit the ECU relearned that as "new normal" and the new switch brought it back to "real normal" and ECU is thinking something is wrong and has to relearn? Im sorry if you think this is deviating from everything you said, im just going by what is happening with my experience.

    OR

    The new switch completed whatever circuit it is apart of which makes the electronic eco system complete which was hiding code since it was not working properly and finally revealed code which means there is a problem somewhere with the IAC wiring/harness unit whatever could be wrong in that area of concern. Which brings us back to what you were explaining before. These will be my steps going foward. Inspecting all wires/harnesses/plugs etc. Im going to put new switch back in, perform a TPS reset and see if that brings ECU back to "normal" and see if it still throws code. I never road bike with engine light on so I dont know how its going to act so I will test that with a test ride locally so I dont get possibly stranded. (Again going back to the ECU "relearning") Anything wrong with IAC/wires/harness should cause bike to run erratically correct? Again im not putting off what your saying this is all a testing and understanding process for me right now. Just trying to take any and all info and put it all together for a plan/checklist.

    Test drive with old dead switch bike ran fine besides alittle higher idle, did not notice anything alarming which kind of makes me think nothing is really wrong. Im assuming that if anything was wrong with injectors, IAC, wires, harnesses ETC. or anything that has to deal with that code bike would not perform right no matter what correct? I cant really believe that the bikes electronic eco system would rely on a small neutral switch (like you said before the ECU doesnt give a ****e whether the switch is new or working or whatever) to work correctly or else i just stumbled on a way to bypass the ecu and have bike run as it should no matter whats wrong with it. (I know not the case)

    Ok so that is my update as of Tuesday 5/11/21. Will update when I figure out more. Thank you.

    https://youtu.be/i5GwWlEn2WU Video of the idle with old dead plug in. Bike was running for about 15 minutes to see if it would throw code.

    Barrett is the Buell whisperer. Legend has it that he once skinned a walrus with his bare hands while hunting polar bears in the arctic.
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 05-12-2021 at 04:59 PM.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    You bring up an interesting point. Is this code you see on ECMSpy "pending" or "active"? Pending is a problem the ECM notices, but hasn't happened often enough to turn on the CEL, active is a CEL light on. I'm just saying you can read the code before the light turns on.

    The neutral light does not have anything else in the circuit, It simply sends the ground signal to the ECM (for the idle) and dash (for the light) when activated:
    Screen Shot 2021-05-12 at 9.49.52 AM.jpg Highlighted on top. So no need to worry if it's grounding anything else.

    Any "ECM re-learning" procedure won't throw a code. The ECM needs to see values out of whack a certain length of time or a certain amount of times before it turns on the CEL.

    Hard to say what a compromised IAC circuit would do? Thats why I asked if it was stuck. A stuck pintle will show the ECM high or low voltage that it isn't able to control = CEL.

    I agree with Barrett to definitely check all your wiring and ECM for physical damage before throwing parts at it You can also check/test injectors with ECMSpy for operation, but will need to pull them out for pattern or flow testing.

    Heres the whole diagram. IAC is on the bottom and the whole 4 wire harness goes straight to the ECM. Should be easy to continuity check it and the injector wiring as well.
    https://www.buellmods.com/content/do...ice_manual.pdf

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    You bring up an interesting point. Is this code you see on ECMSpy "pending" or "active"? Pending is a problem the ECM notices, but hasn't happened often enough to turn on the CEL, active is a CEL light on. I'm just saying you can read the code before the light turns on.

    The neutral light does not have anything else in the circuit, It simply sends the ground signal to the ECM (for the idle) and dash (for the light) when activated:
    Screen Shot 2021-05-12 at 9.49.52 AM.jpg Highlighted on top. So no need to worry if it's grounding anything else.

    Any "ECM re-learning" procedure won't throw a code. The ECM needs to see values out of whack a certain length of time or a certain amount of times before it turns on the CEL.

    Hard to say what a compromised IAC circuit would do? Thats why I asked if it was stuck. A stuck pintle will show the ECM high or low voltage that it isn't able to control = CEL.

    I agree with Barrett to definitely check all your wiring and ECM for physical damage before throwing parts at it You can also check/test injectors with ECMSpy for operation, but will need to pull them out for pattern or flow testing.

    Heres the whole diagram. IAC is on the bottom and the whole 4 wire harness goes straight to the ECM. Should be easy to continuity check it and the injector wiring as well.
    https://www.buellmods.com/content/do...ice_manual.pdf

    UPDATE 5/14/21
    The code that shows up looks to be in the stored errors box. If light comes on and I shut bike off if doesnt stay on and goes away. It will come back on again when I start bike back up and let it idle again. So since my last post ive been checking and trying to find the locations of every plug and wire that I can find with my limited time and inspecting them all. Hopefully I dont miss any. But the ones that I have checked seemed to be fine no cracks breaks etc. Going back to the dead neutral switch, I hit the highway to see how bike would run in higher RPMS and going faster than 40. Check engine light came on after I got off highway. So obviously like everyone said the neutral switch has nothing to do with check engine light. Put new switch in rode to work and back yesterday. No engine light. Rode to work today stopped at gas station ran inside real quick, left it idling and check engine light came on when I came back out. Rode whole trip to work (about 8 miles) and as I was almost to work check engine light turned off. Bike ran fine the whole time light was on, no hiccups no stalls at lights nothing. So I will continue to inspect wires, plugs etc. and eventually im gonna check spark plugs also and injectors. I did test injectors and heard them clicking with ECMSPY but someone also said something about possibly being clogged or not spraying correctly. PO did leave gas in tank all winter long so not sure if thats a factor also. I just put a full tank of 93 in thursday morning so. Thats my update, again thank you everyone.

  7. #17
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CC83 View Post
    UPDATE 5/14/21
    The code that shows up looks to be in the stored errors box. If light comes on and I shut bike off if doesnt stay on and goes away. It will come back on again when I start bike back up and let it idle again. So since my last post ive been checking and trying to find the locations of every plug and wire that I can find with my limited time and inspecting them all. Hopefully I dont miss any. But the ones that I have checked seemed to be fine no cracks breaks etc. Going back to the dead neutral switch, I hit the highway to see how bike would run in higher RPMS and going faster than 40. Check engine light came on after I got off highway. So obviously like everyone said the neutral switch has nothing to do with check engine light. Put new switch in rode to work and back yesterday. No engine light. Rode to work today stopped at gas station ran inside real quick, left it idling and check engine light came on when I came back out. Rode whole trip to work (about 8 miles) and as I was almost to work check engine light turned off. Bike ran fine the whole time light was on, no hiccups no stalls at lights nothing. So I will continue to inspect wires, plugs etc. and eventually im gonna check spark plugs also and injectors. I did test injectors and heard them clicking with ECMSPY but someone also said something about possibly being clogged or not spraying correctly. PO did leave gas in tank all winter long so not sure if thats a factor also. I just put a full tank of 93 in thursday morning so. Thats my update, again thank you everyone.
    Great. Thanks for the update. A stored error code could be a lot of things. Heck, a loose battery cable on an XB can throw 4 or 5 codes on its own. Dont ask me how I know this. LOL.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Weird to be throwing that particular code and running/idling fine, but it sounds like your commute isn't that far from home. Keep running it and keep checking, I'm at a loss on how to continue without further clues but I'll keep an eye on this thread. Post up anything you find please!

  9. #19
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    UPDATE 5/18/21

    So Friday evening I took airbox off to get to IAC valve. Cleaned that again, check the little rubber nipple on throttle body that was fine. Again still checking wires and plugs. Took ground off bike and cleaned ground wires to frame. From what I remember when I first purchased bike and checked IAC valve the velocity stack wasnt seated all the way. There are the 2 ribs it was only past the first one with the stock clamp on. So I seated the velocity stack properly and got the clamp on properly. Took it out to the store the next day (saturday) check engine light came on on my way there. Again bike has ran fine the whole time.(I have started to notice starting it up it stalls out once or twice or the idle dips down almost to stall before it returns to life) On my way home I went to accelerate and rpms crashed and bike almost stalled was able to clutch it and save it from stalling. Pulled over and bike idled fine, every time id crack the throttle as if I was trying a pull rpms would crash. I was able to get home with just rolling on the throttle to accelerate nice and easy. Got home thinking bike was really messed up. As I was starting to pull off airbox I noticed velocity stack was off already so Im assuming somehow it popped off. Reattached stack moved clamp all the way up and used a steel hose clamp to keep it on, buttoned everything back up hit the throttle a few times and no problems. Took it for a quick ride and bike ran fine so a sigh of relief there. Still not out of the woods though with the whole check engine light. Been riding to work almost everyday (15 Miles round trip) colder mornings I wont get a check engine light, still waiting on a warmer morning to see if it comes on. But on the warmer afternoons home and even on Saturdays ride light came on after about 5 mins. So im pretty much going to expect it to come on quicker when it gets warmer. Bike is running solid from what I can feel and hear. (obviously something is still wrong because of light) So thats my update, continuing to go through everything to see if I can solve it. Thanks again everyone be safe.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    And since the intake trumpet wasn't positioned correctly, double check the lip at the bottom as well, it should sandwich the airbox plate between the two lips. Seems minor, but for some reason they are really sensitive to that.

    A heavy load like WOT really stresses components like ignition and fuel delivery. Your pump may even show 49-51psi but unable to supply enough volume at WOT. Pinholes in the internal pressure hose are getting more common too (PM the 100yo gramma above for quality fuel pumps and rebuild kits).



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