Oh no I understand what you explained. Im going to inspect every plug and wire to make sure everything is ok. I dont want to just be blindly throwing parts at it and hope something sticks. I havent even owned the bike for a month yet, I dont want to be spending extra money on obsolete parts that may not fix the problem.
Speaking of wiring/harnesses. Which could be leading me to the right area that you were explaining from earlier. I put old neutral switch in (yesterday 5/11/21) just to see what it would do(this is the only physical thing that i changed on bike right before light came on). Let it idle and come to operating temperature and no check engine light. Turned it off, ran diagnostic no codes. But it idled at around 1300-1400 like i explained before. Clutch in and it drops to 1050-1100, let go it goes back up to 1300-1400. So old switch is def dead. But that switch should connect the whole bike together right? (its part of the whole electronic eco system that makes it work correctly) That neutral switch is a ground for something then and with it being dead it did not complete something so it did not throw a code correct? (possibly hiding problem) So putting a new working one in connected the circuit which allowed the computer to read correctly which then shows the code 34. Which brings me back to before when I asked if the ECU is "relearning" (which ive read can take like 60-70 miles). Is it a possibility that maybe since idle with the dead switch went up alittle bit the ECU relearned that as "new normal" and the new switch brought it back to "real normal" and ECU is thinking something is wrong and has to relearn? Im sorry if you think this is deviating from everything you said, im just going by what is happening with my experience.
OR
The new switch completed whatever circuit it is apart of which makes the electronic eco system complete which was hiding code since it was not working properly and finally revealed code which means there is a problem somewhere with the IAC wiring/harness unit whatever could be wrong in that area of concern. Which brings us back to what you were explaining before. These will be my steps going foward. Inspecting all wires/harnesses/plugs etc. Im going to put new switch back in, perform a TPS reset and see if that brings ECU back to "normal" and see if it still throws code. I never road bike with engine light on so I dont know how its going to act so I will test that with a test ride locally so I dont get possibly stranded. (Again going back to the ECU "relearning") Anything wrong with IAC/wires/harness should cause bike to run erratically correct? Again im not putting off what your saying this is all a testing and understanding process for me right now. Just trying to take any and all info and put it all together for a plan/checklist.
Test drive with old dead switch bike ran fine besides alittle higher idle, did not notice anything alarming which kind of makes me think nothing is really wrong. Im assuming that if anything was wrong with injectors, IAC, wires, harnesses ETC. or anything that has to deal with that code bike would not perform right no matter what correct? I cant really believe that the bikes electronic eco system would rely on a small neutral switch (like you said before the ECU doesnt give a ****e whether the switch is new or working or whatever) to work correctly or else i just stumbled on a way to bypass the ecu and have bike run as it should no matter whats wrong with it. (I know not the case)
Ok so that is my update as of Tuesday 5/11/21. Will update when I figure out more. Thank you.
https://youtu.be/i5GwWlEn2WU Video of the idle with old dead plug in. Bike was running for about 15 minutes to see if it would throw code.