05 xb9r flooding throttle body with gas

[Cooter]

We can be a little rough around the edges, but mean no harm, thanks for playing

The injectors should not open at all before I hit the starter correct?
Not THAT much.
The injectors are staying wide open when connected to ecm.
Correct. That is your problem.

The "why" will be the harder part for us to find from the internet without access to your bike in your garage.

Touch an injector. Key on, does it continuously buzz? buzz then stop? Or just click ONCE?
Key on, does the injector get hot?
Key off does the 'river of gas' continue for a little bit (draining fuel pressure from the lines) or stop immediately once the ECM loses power? That will tell you stuck injector or bad signal. Both physically stuck open would be crazy rare.

Without any proper path of diagnostics, I'm trying to figure out if you just happened to see down the TB during start and are exaggerating describing a start cycle and that means you just have fouled plugs or possible ignition issue causing a no start*

OR

If the ECM is sending a full 255 ON signal to both injectors from a compromised output relay, needing a new ECM (also SUPER rare). Is there any physical damage to it? I should have an ECM to send you to check if we get that far.

NOTE: Be CAREFUL during diagnosis. If indeed the injectors are opening fully while the key is on it will fill your cylinders with gas, contaminate your oil/ crankcase, wash the cylinders, and even hydrolock the engine CATASTROPHICALLY if you try to crank it. It can even shoot massive flames of burning fuel out of the TB into your face if your looking down it. I really don't want to tell a burn victim 'I told you so...'.

* my bet is on this

[seadoojetski]

We can be a little rough around the edges, but mean no harm, thanks for playing


The "why" will be the harder part for us to find from the internet without access to your bike in your garage.

Touch an injector. Key on, does it continuously buzz? buzz then stop? Or just click ONCE?
Key on, does the injector get hot?
Key off does the 'river of gas' continue for a little bit (draining fuel pressure from the lines) or stop immediately once the ECM loses power? That will tell you stuck injector or bad signal. Both physically stuck open would be crazy rare.

Without any proper path of diagnostics, I'm trying to figure out if you just happened to see down the TB during start and are exaggerating describing a start cycle and that means you just have fouled plugs or possible ignition issue causing a no start*

OR

If the ECM is sending a full 255 ON signal to both injectors from a compromised output relay, needing a new ECM (also SUPER rare). Is there any physical damage to it? I should have an ECM to send you to check if we get that far.

NOTE: Be CAREFUL during diagnosis. If indeed the injectors are opening fully while the key is on it will fill your cylinders with gas, contaminate your oil/ crankcase, wash the cylinders, and even hydrolock the engine CATASTROPHICALLY if you try to crank it. It can even shoot massive flames of burning fuel out of the TB into your face if your looking down it. I really don't want to tell a burn victim 'I told you so...'.

* my bet is on this

Thank you very much for your reply , so I’ve made some progress. Digging much more into the bike I found a Remus powerizer Hooked up into the injectors. I eliminated it and now when I turn the bike on , fuel pump runs but no fuel coming out if the injectors. The oil did get contaminated with gas so I drained it and I’m going to to put fresh oil in it , crank the motor a bunch of times , drain it again to make sure no gas is in it and do another fresh oil change then attempt to start it. Does that sound like the best approach ?
Thank you again for helping me out.

[34nineteen]

Thank you very much for your reply , so I’ve made some progress. Digging much more into the bike I found a Remus powerizer Hooked up into the injectors. I eliminated it and now when I turn the bike on , fuel pump runs but no fuel coming out if the injectors. The oil did get contaminated with gas so I drained it and I’m going to to put fresh oil in it , crank the motor a bunch of times , drain it again to make sure no gas is in it and do another fresh oil change then attempt to start it. Does that sound like the best approach ?
Thank you again for helping me out.

Yes, definitely replace the oil. You probably dont need to change it again so quickly, but I would probably aim for around 500 miles. But, if you feel more comfortable doing it sooner, youre not going to hurt anything. I would just run inexpensive oil for the flushing process.

I had a SV650 that had a leaky petcock and basically filled up my entire crankcase with gasoline. I did 2 oil changes as described above and it was fine.

[34nineteen]

Thank you very much for your reply , so I’ve made some progress. Digging much more into the bike I found a Remus powerizer Hooked up into the injectors. I eliminated it and now when I turn the bike on , fuel pump runs but no fuel coming out if the injectors. The oil did get contaminated with gas so I drained it and I’m going to to put fresh oil in it , crank the motor a bunch of times , drain it again to make sure no gas is in it and do another fresh oil change then attempt to start it. Does that sound like the best approach ?
Thank you again for helping me out.

Simply put, the ECM will pulse the injectors, when it gets a signal from the cam position sensor. So if the motor isnt running, the cams arent turning, and the signal isnt being provided. The cam sensor also triggers the coil to fire, and Cooter can help you out with any issues you may have there.

I'm glad you found the issue, those piggyback controllers cause more hassle than they're worth, but back in 2005, the tuning tech wasnt what it is today. I had a Dobeck controller on my 06 Ss and it would do all sorts of weird things.

[seadoojetski]

Simply put, the ECM will pulse the injectors, when it gets a signal from the cam position sensor. So if the motor isnt running, the cams arent turning, and the signal isnt being provided. The cam sensor also triggers the coil to fire, and Cooter can help you out with any issues you may have there.

I'm glad you found the issue, those piggyback controllers cause more hassle than they're worth, but back in 2005, the tuning tech wasnt what it is today. I had a Dobeck controller on my 06 Ss and it would do all sorts of weird things.

Thank you guys. Big thanks to cooter. Ill let you guys know how it works out after I do the oil changes and attempt the starting process

[34nineteen]

One thing, before you do the oil changes....

Normally, we harp on people to RTFM. However, the torque spec for the drain plug on the swingarm is incorrect in the manual. There are many ideas of what it should be, but I just snug it down so the oring makes a positive seal and the plug won't vibrate out. Do whatever you feel comfortable with, but dont follow the book spec on this.


Be careful with thanking CoOter too much, he'll start camping outside your house, drink all your beer, and never leave.

[seadoojetski]

One thing, before you do the oil changes....

Normally, we harp on people to RTFM. However, the torque spec for the drain plug on the swingarm is incorrect in the manual. There are many ideas of what it should be, but I just snug it down so the oring makes a positive seal and the plug won't vibrate out. Do whatever you feel comfortable with, but dont follow the book spec on this.


Be careful with thanking CoOter too much, he'll start camping outside your house, drink all your beer, and never leave.

Cooter is more than welcomed to drink all my beer , jeez all you guys can drink all my beer .. helped me out tremendously! Cant thank you guys enough.

[Cooter]

Careful what you wish for!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iR4f84HKaY

34:19 knows what he's talking about, his dad used to own a junkyard. Check the o-ring seat for debris or sharp edges, a little oil on a NEW o-ring, a little sealant on the threads (yes, its not pipe thread) and snug +1/2 turn is fine. The spec in the manual is written as ft/lbs when it should be in/lbs. It is a steel o-ring plug going into an aluminum swingarm. IMHO, anyone who thinks 30 FT/lbs is OK for that plug should either own a jiffy lube chain or have their wrenches taken away regardless of what the manual says. There is 'tolerance' and there is 'ludicrous'. LOL.

Here 34:19 and his dad 33:18
Screen Shot 2021-05-24 at 6.27.57 PM.png

[seadoojetski]

Careful what you wish for!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iR4f84HKaY

34:19 knows what he's talking about, his dad used to own a junkyard. Check the o-ring seat for debris or sharp edges, a little oil on a NEW o-ring, a little sealant on the threads (yes, its not pipe thread) and snug +1/2 turn is fine. The spec in the manual is written as ft/lbs when it should be in/lbs. It is a steel o-ring plug going into an aluminum swingarm. IMHO, anyone who thinks 30 FT/lbs is OK for that plug should either own a jiffy lube chain or have their wrenches taken away regardless of what the manual says. There is 'tolerance' and there is 'ludicrous'. LOL.

Here 34:19 and his dad 33:18
Screen Shot 2021-05-24 at 6.27.57 PM.png

Haha. Had me cracking up with that video and 34:19’s son and dad pic.
Well good news boys. Bike is back in action!!! Runs perfect ! No hesitation, idles excellent. I like to take this Remus powerizer and ream it up there a$$! Start up in 1 sec. just touch the starter button and it’s fired up...
Thank you again guys for all your help ...

[seadoojetski]

Haha. Had me cracking up with that video and 34:19’s son and dad pic.
Well good news boys. Bike is back in action!!! Runs perfect ! No hesitation, idles excellent. I like to take this Remus powerizer and ream it up there a$$! Start up in 1 sec. just touch the starter button and it’s fired up...
Thank you again guys for all your help ...

Last couple of questions if you don’t mind, is the primary oil the same as the oil in the swing arm and do you know how much it takes ? 05 xb9r firebolt. Getting mixed information on it.
And do you know what this is? Picture attached 7980181F-27E0-4BC1-9E49-D75ACF643DD9.jpg